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Tensioner/crankshaft question

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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Frank45
Posts: 1
Joined: 25 April 2017
Year and Model: 2001 V70
Location: Florida

Tensioner/crankshaft question

Post by Frank45 »

Working on my wife's Volvo V70 2001 2.4T. Bought it last year with low miles (59,000) and it drove great for 20k more miles until the PCV clogged and started an oil leak by crankshaft/oil pump area. The oil killed all of the suspension parts in the process. Long story short I replaced the entire PCV system with Volvo parts. I've learned that I hate banjo bolts and the damn copper washers. I replaced all the wire looms that were crumbling apart. Replaced on both sides all control arms, ball joints tie rods etc. Now I'm just left trying to stop the oil leak and do a timing belt change.

I already replaced the water pump, timing belt pulley and tensioner. I degreased everything before hand and did locate the leak somewhere around the crankshaft seal/oil pump. I locked the cams from the rear with the cam locking tool. I'm going to pull the crankshaft pulley off this weekend and replace the seal and replace the oil pump. I purchased a seal installer so it will go in evenly. How does the pulley go back on as the shaft has just a nut and not a bolt? Do I tap the pulley back on a bit until the nut can go back on and then just crank the pulley back on with the nut?

I'm sure this process is going to move the crankshaft back and forth so is that ok just as long as I put it back to the timing mark?

Also is there anything I should watch out for when replacing the oil pump?

Is there a specific way for my year V70 for setting the tensioner?

Thanks for any input!

jimmy57
Posts: 6694
Joined: 12 November 2010
Year and Model: 2004 V70R GT, et al
Location: Ponder Texas
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Post by jimmy57 »

The crank is splined but one of the grooves is not rolled all the way to the front. That "wide" spline will only allow the corresponding double size spline in the belt gear to slide on when aligned unless you FORCE it.
It is ok to bring it back until mark aligns. Be sure you are careful to see that marks align looking straight down and not from an angle. The angle will introduce an error that can be enough to cause a code to set for cam travel not achieving its goal due to the error.
The tensioner on 5 cyl is turned CCW using the hex hole in tensioner. The pointer finger should be within the goalposts set by the bracket for tensioner. Go over tight and then bring it back to correct tension range. This will assure the belt "settles" as any slack segments of belt created by drag of cms, etc will move as they should if you go tighter and lower to correct tension.

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