1996 850 NA Wagon, Struts and Axle Replacement

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 12 May 2017, 13:35

On closer inspection: spring mounts are shot as expected, on the list to replace.

The original bump stop is nearly destroyed, any experience on if this Febi lasts
or is the same as OEM quality?
Strut Bump Stop (850 C70 S70 V70) - Febi 9140067 FCP $7.29

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 17 May 2017, 15:56

I'm replacing the front brake lines since they don't look too healthy.

Front caliper boots look like they've been torn for some time so I'm going
to get Cardone rebuilds from FCP, probably the coated ones. Anyone
tried these, is the coating done well?

Post by **erikv11** » 17 May 2017, 16:06

There were like 5 or 6 threads about this item (coated, rebuilt Cardone calipers) starting in about January this year. Here's one of them but with search you can find more threads: viewtopic.php?t=80631

I like the coating, I put them on last fall and they are still rust-free.

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 19 May 2017, 09:26

Thanks Erik, just ordered them, they look very nice.

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 19 May 2017, 09:28

I'm going to replace the axle shaft seal, do I just press it in flush with the case
or does it have to go a bit deeper?

Does putting the new seal in the freezer overnight make it any easier?

Post by **erikv11** » 19 May 2017, 10:40

Flush with the case, I use a flat piece of wood. I haven't tried the freezer trick.

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 21 May 2017, 16:28

I got the outer cv joint apart, cleaned everything in stale gasoline.

Removed the inner boot, the grease looks grey whereas the outer was black.
I've read that different grease was used, but not sure if this is correct.

The inside joint will not come apart, there is a metal cover and I think
the tabs are blocking the assembly from coming out.

I'm thinking of just flooding the joint with gas or carb cleaner and then
repacking it, I can slide the boot from the outside shaft.

When Robert does it here the inside just comes out at about 13:00 :

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 21 May 2017, 18:36

Pulling hard and using some momentum it finally came but slightly bent the
tabs in the process - no problem I'll just tap them back into place.
I'm able to soak the inside end in the large coffee can of gas to degrease
it and some carb cleaner helped remove the last bits of grease. I don't
see any reason to remove the inside end from the shaft. Everything is clean
and I just slid the inside boot on over the outside end of the shaft - easy.

The inside looks like it takes a lot more grease and there are two packs of
grease for it, and one for the outside. I'm using one Audi boot that I think
is the inside one - fits fine so far.

I'm not sure how to get the inside grease into the needle bearings, I suppose
I'll just massage it in and it will mix like a blender as the car moves. These
CV joints are an impressive piece of engineering and the metal looks to be
very hard. It was easy to see the points of contact but they did not seem to
be worn at all.

This outside cv joint was tight just as Robert describes in the video and I think
that gently driven non-turbo cars might just stay tight like new.

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 21 May 2017, 19:06

I had a hard time getting the shaft out from the transmission and this video
looks like a good way if you are not trying to reuse the shaft:

If I had to do it again by prying, I would apply some pressure and then tap around
the cup perpendicular to the shaft to try to coax the ring into the shaft.

PeteB · Post by **PeteB** » 21 May 2017, 19:23

Cheap homemade puller:

Slide hammer puller:

1996 850 NA Wagon, Struts and Axle Replacement

Re: 1996 850 NA Wagon, Struts and Axle Replacement