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replacing control arms

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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azureblue
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replacing control arms

Post by azureblue »

(2001 V70 T5) My front control arm bushings are shot, especially the one at the front of the CA, so I'm preparing to replace them. I found replacements at all sorts of price levels. and materials, like aluminum and what looks to be steel. And comments about bushing rubber quality too. What I dislike is viewing CA pix, seeing them listed at different prices by different vendors, yet the sellers use the same photo.

Advice?

Thanks
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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

You didn't ask a question.

azureblue
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Post by azureblue »

I asked for some advice on the point of vendors using the same photo of a CA. Which would lead a person to believe that they were selling the same CA, but at different prices. So, if a vendor has one for, say, $50.00 and another vendor, especially one that is a "name" part maker, is selling it for twice that, how can a person say if it is better quality or not? I understand the reasons for OEM, of course, but my budget can't handle OEM prices at the moment.
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740T Wagon
850R Wagon
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2014 S60 T5

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oragex
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Post by oragex »

google up "volvo good control arm forum" plenty of discussions ;)

azureblue
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Post by azureblue »

thanks. I tried a few google word combos but got more ads than info. Maybe this will get better links..
544
122s
144 wagon
240
740T Wagon
850R Wagon
2002 V70 Wagon
2014 S60 T5

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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

Sometimes they include balljoint, sometimes not.
Get the best you can afford, it won't good enuf for the purists but its your money.
I just installed the ones my part guy got me, don't know the mfger or care but I paid $175 plus $55 for a moog ball joint.
So not exactly cheapo but probably not OEM either.
WHichever one you get, its a beech of a job getting them installed again.
I'm gonna try spring compressors on the next one I do.

azureblue
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Post by azureblue »

Much thanks.. Most I've seen have no ball joint. And my ball joints test OK, using the shake the tire, and pry bar tests. They seem pretty tight..

Is it safe to reuse the bolts if I use locktite?
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122s
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240
740T Wagon
850R Wagon
2002 V70 Wagon
2014 S60 T5

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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

THe balljoint I removed was good so I'll be using it on the other side.
I re-used bolts, getting the originals out is impossible without raising the motor.
I didn't use loctite but if the originals were not stretch bolts...they are now.
Getting at the bolt heads inside the frame required a closed end offset wrench and I think I raised the engine an inch.
THe only bolts I tossed were on the water pump.

azureblue
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Post by azureblue »

Thanks. I think I'll find a kit that has bolts with it. Better safe than sorry. .I went to the parts yard and practiced on a car there. Getting the bolts out wasn't impossible, but it took some strength with a breaker bar to get them loose...
544
122s
144 wagon
240
740T Wagon
850R Wagon
2002 V70 Wagon
2014 S60 T5

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jonesg
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Post by jonesg »

Two bolts go in parralel to the ground are easy, the other two go vertical and they require engine be raised to clear for removal.
I think they butt against the oil pan or tranny.

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