2004 Volvo S60 2.5T timing camshaft positions..

moniq77 · Post by **moniq77** » 25 Oct 2011, 22:47

hi.. im new to the forum and need urgent help..

i've replaced timing belt, water pump and all seals for this car but didnt know there was no key lock between cam pulley and camshaft. i've bought the tool to align the timing but dont know how to align cam pulley coz they are VVT.
does anyone have a volvo repair guide to give me a pic on how they sit?

its a 2004 volvo s60 2.5 turbo petrol..

i've ordered the repair manual from overseas but it will take weeks to come and this car needs to be fixed asap.
so please someone help me...

Post by **DGM** » 27 Oct 2011, 20:44

May be this can help!

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... a&start=14

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread ... VT-engines

draser · Post by **draser** » 28 Oct 2011, 18:05

If you lined up the marks on the sprokets before doing the TBelt you're in luck. Just remove the plastic plugs at the end of camshafts and you should see the slots pretty close to horizontal. Then you just adjust them horizontal, then install back the sprokets lining up the marks. Or you can use the cam locking tool, and install the sprokets, etc.

besust · Post by **besust** » 03 Oct 2012, 16:11

i got same problem on my 2005 s60 2.5T AWD

I didnt know there is no guide on cam pully . so i took the both cam pully out. (dont know its spin or not)

but i algin the back of the camshaft straight. and i put all the part back. it is not starting.

any help? i think the cam shaft may spin already. so if anyone has picture of rear cam timing mark or something

i know the rear cam shaft plug is one way. i really need help. please help me out

Post by **chrism** » 04 Oct 2012, 11:16

Before you go any further, you might want to remove all the spark plugs so that you can be sensative to any accidental valve/piston contact while working on it. If you feel any resistance, other than valve spring tension, while rotating a cam, don't force it. I believe if you set the crankshaft sprocket on its reference mark, that none of the five pistons wil be at the top of their stroke, allowing you to safely rotate either cam as much as you want. In other words, the crank sprocket timing mark is not exactly at TDC, but rather a few degrees off TDC which puts all of the pistons in a "safe" position to perform the timing setup. I want to repeat I BELIEVE this is the case, but I'm not 100% sure so be careful.

When aligning the slots on the back end of the cams, note that the slots should be "parallel" but they won't be perfectly aligned on the same plain. The slots are slightly off-center, The intake cam slot should be slightly ABOVE the cam centerline and the exhaust cam slot should be slightly BELOW center. There are photos all over the internet that illustrate this. The standard tool used to align the slots has a built-in "stairstep" which places the slots in the proper offset.

When preparing to install the cam sprockets, search this website for a description of how to zero out the VVT. I've never had to do this myself as I've never seperated the sprockets from the cams.

Good luck.

FREE-PPV · Post by **FREE-PPV** » 16 Jun 2017, 08:53

Curious,

Been looking for same information, and given the poster on issue of safe position of crank pulley to prevent valve damage while rotating cams, here is my question, is it safe, poster was not 100% and I don't want to take a chance if it is not safe to rotate cam pulleys. I have exhaust CVVT pulley which is loose as a goose moves in and out by over 1/4 inch. Seal is leaking, so I have to replace both, so here is question, I know about locking cams before removing pulley, but is it possible to use sprocket lock instead of rear camshaft lock to loosen bolt for pulley, marking where it should be reinstalled on back of head and pulley, and then put new pulley on using this reference as long as I align sprocket marks before removing to the timing belt cover? It would seem to me that if I align marks all the way they need to be aligned, and lock cam sprockets before removing, then installing new pulley with same mark at top, and then reinstall locks before fully torque the cam bolt, is this safe approach? I am paranoid over messing this up, and since water pump froze, and timing belt came off, I am not sure if there was any damage since engine died, and I didn't try and start it without checking timing belt. I know about these insane no tolerance motors, surely engineered for one reason only, insure programmed failure for dealers to rip you off on repairs. I had replaced all components 40K ago, so was really pissed when new water pump froze rather than just leak like most vehicles warn before total failure. No warning, just bang, froze instantly. Took it off, can't even force it to turn in vise. I have seen a bearing seize without warning before?

Thanks,

Post by **jonesg** » 17 Jun 2017, 03:40

No you need the rear cam locking tool. See the tutorial by F150, complete with pics, its the best way.

Post by **jonesg** » 17 Jun 2017, 06:05

moniq77 wrote: ↑25 Oct 2011, 22:47 hi.. im new to the forum and need urgent help..

i've replaced timing belt, water pump and all seals for this car but didnt know there was no key lock between cam pulley and camshaft. i've bought the tool to align the timing but dont know how to align cam pulley coz they are VVT.
does anyone have a Volvo repair guide to give me a pic on how they sit?

its a 2004 Volvo S60 2.5 turbo petrol..

i've ordered the repair manual from overseas but it will take weeks to come and this car needs to be fixed asap.
so please someone help me...

follow this link...look for the pdf file by F250.

Cvvt hub change on p2 volvos

FREEBUSINESSES · Post by **FREEBUSINESSES** » 06 Nov 2020, 09:22

Curious, I see you can rotate cams when crank pulley timing is correct without hitting pistons, but what about cams locked with special tool, can you rotate crank pulley 260 degrees without any interference, for as I was turning to set bottom crank pulley timing, I hit a resistance spot and didn't want to take a chance to force it manually any further. Seems logical there would be no issue, but I need to make a couple tooth change back and people say only rotate clockwise? I got this XC70 2.5t from a hack who tried to fix exhaust cam seal which was leaking, and he had timing all messed up. I had no compression on any cylinders other than 15LB on 1 and 5, crazy, so I pulled head thinking valves were wiped out, and although pistons had hit marks, all the valves were good in leak down test. I had already ordered valves and seals, so replaced all valves while apart and new valve stem seals and lapped them all in. As I was using the former hacks timing marks he put on VVT hub sprockets, so I question if this was correct. As I see it, you can set timing of cams only one way, but crank can be 180 degrees out, and since I see no two dots on teeth on crank teeth, is it safe to use the pulley line on outside edge of pulley which is the only thing I can see minus the dots and based on a few other videos I have watched. It was two teeth off of this line when I got into it, no compression, so would a couple teeth off kill compression???

Thanks,

Post by **chrism** » 08 Nov 2020, 07:41

Being a couple teeth off might have a TINY effect on compression readings, but it wouldn’t cause a total loss of compression. You were smart in not forcing the crank to turn as it sounds as though it may be WAY out of time.

Although the crank has a “safe” zone in which it can be positioned to avoid piston/valve interference, I seriously doubt that the cams have a safe zone in which the crank can be rotated indiscriminately without contacting a valve in at least one cylinder if not more. I assume the head is already torqued down and you don’t know exactly where the crank is in rotation - bummer.

Theoretically if you knew for certain the crank was exactly or nearly exactly 180 deg off then you could retard the cams 90 deg off, reinstall the belt, rotate everything clockwise back to the normal safe zone, and then Install the lock tool and do a final adjustment to the timing and VVT. It is imperative that you find the proper timing mark on the crank sprocket - not some mark that a mechanic made.

Another way, and maybe simpler, would be to find ANY safe zone - in theory there are five safe zones - using a long screwdriver In the spark plug holes, align the cam slots, install the belt, rotate crank to normal safe zone, then realign the cams to this proper safe zone.

I don’t know if the proper safe zone is with the #1 piston a few degrees before TDC or a few degrees after TDC. Maybe someone else could shed some light on that.

In any case tread forward carefully, as you have been doing.