Login Register

Do Turbo models require longer warm-up time?

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

Post Reply
User avatar
mrbrian200
Posts: 1554
Joined: 20 January 2016
Year and Model: 2006 S60 2.5T FWD
Location: Northern Indiana/Chicago
Has thanked: 7 times
Been thanked: 84 times

Re: Do Turbo models require longer warm-up time?

Post by mrbrian200 »

precopster wrote: 07 Jul 2017, 21:40 Anything constructive would be useful. I find Taylor Swift soothes my engine :) .
Mine seems to like quasi disco pop and an occasional squirt of Lucas upper cylinder lubricant-injector cleaner.
Has anyone tried playing hardball with a misbehaving Volvo? You know, blasting Tool or Godsmack? I once owned an Oldsmobile... But I'd be hesitant to try that with a Volvo for fear of an immobilizer fit-fault.

Cookie-the-Swede
Posts: 60
Joined: 7 October 2016
Year and Model: 2003 S60 2.5T AWD
Location: Telluride, CO. USA
Has thanked: 1 time
Been thanked: 4 times

Post by Cookie-the-Swede »

1. Wait a couple minutes after start-up before driving away in your turbo. And let it cool down for a couple minutes before shutting it off.
2. Use synthetic oil and a quality filter. And change them at least every 5,000 miles.

These two steps will make your car last longer. Period!
Arguing against doing these two (simple and free) measures is just plain stupid.

User avatar
prwood
Posts: 689
Joined: 2 October 2015
Year and Model: 2001 V70 2.4T
Location: Salem, Massachusetts, USA
Has thanked: 9 times
Been thanked: 22 times
Contact:

Post by prwood »

This is a fantastic and humorous education for me. Thank you all. :lol:

This is the first car I've owned or driven with a turbocharger (3 naturally aspirated cars before this), and beyond the basic concept of what a turbocharger does, I don't know a whole lot about them or how they work in practice. So, I do have a few other questions:

* When I'm out on the highway, I've noticed that as I slowly depress the accelerator, the RPMs smoothly accelerate up to a certain point where the pedal show some resistance. If I give it another push beyond this, RPMs jump up quite a bit and acceleration is faster. My assumption was that this was the turbocharger being activated. Is that correct? Is there a set condition under which it will activate?

* As an extension of that, how does one gauge whether a turbocharger is operating correctly?

* My car is a 2001 V70 2.4T with 213k miles. I bought it in 2015 with 189k miles, and the only mention of the turbocharger in the service records is from April 2005 at 67k miles when it says "turbocharger serviced" at the Volvo dealer. Is there some regular service I should be doing on it? What is the expected lifetime of a turbocharger?

* Supposing something did go wrong and the turbocharger stopped working, and a replacement wasn't possible, could I lock it into a mode where the exhaust was just bypassing the turbocharger and have the system function like a non-turbocharged engine?
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE

User avatar
jonesg  
Posts: 3507
Joined: 16 January 2008
Year and Model: 2004 V70
Location: Northern maine.
Has thanked: 69 times
Been thanked: 481 times

Post by jonesg »

I've ordered a $50 turbo boost gauge for mine from IPD, still waiting for it.

If the turbo throws a wheel or the shaft breaks its most likely going to trip limp mode.
You'll make it home, eventually. Happened to mine, took an hour to go 10 miles.
Good synth oil is what they like. Not cheap dino oil.
Otherwise experienced volvo guys say the turbo is dependable, not prone to early failure.
And they aren't THAT hard to swap out.

THere are videos on youtube that show how to test the vac actuated waste gate arm and how to set it.
With a vac pump the actuator on the front of the turbo can be tested too.
I suspect yours is set wrong, mine does the same thing , thats why I'm getting the gauge.

jimmy57
Posts: 6694
Joined: 12 November 2010
Year and Model: 2004 V70R GT, et al
Location: Ponder Texas
Has thanked: 4 times
Been thanked: 320 times

Post by jimmy57 »

If you want a warm heater then warm up the car. The engine does not need it. The gearbox oil can use a little warming if temps are less than zero F. You should avoid running engine at high load until the engine warms for a few minutes only because there MIGHT be some stresses on exhaust manifold and exhaust housing of turbo that would be less if everything was at a consistent. On 92-99 "white" engine with hydraulic tappets the exhaust valves can warm and grow in length faster than the tappet can retract and cause misfiring that is mostly unnoticeable. This was/is only ever a problem with hard acceleration withing a few second of start. This even goes away on the new 2.0 litre 4 cylinders as they use welded sheet steel exhaust manifolds. Your car has some fairly complicated strategies for quick warm up but they all require some engine load. An idling engine has the lowest load other than when coasting and thus the lowest heat production to aid warm up and the get oil temp up to shed condensation from cold start and initial cold running.

Probably building a lock when all you asked was the time.

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post