Problem after replacing control arms

[azureblue]

I found out it has to go in using a specific assembly order: 1- rear bushing. 2 - front bushing. 3 - ball joint. 4 - reattach strut.
But you can't let the arm drop too far, because it can rip the rear bushing. Outside of teh strut and the link, there is nothing else that has to be disconnected. I did have a problem with the other side where I let the hub swing out too far and half shaft came out of the inner joint, but that went back together fine with just a little coaxing. BTW, I hate jubilee clamps now.

I'm out to look at the right side, to see if I missed anything there.

[azureblue]

Solved- the left side is way out of alignment. I went back through and double checked all of my work, which is all correct, then, someone who knows the mysteries of alignment sciences, showed me how bad the left side is. Much relief - I was sure I had broken something or did the work wrong. So off to the alignment shop Monday.

Thanks to all who replied..

[jbeebo]

Glad you got it sorted Azureblue.
Just to clarify for those reading this thread. If you replace control arms (on any vehicle) - YES a wheel alignment is required and mandatory. The point in 3D space at the end of the control arm dictates how the entire rest of the suspension will be aligned. Change the control arm and you now need to modify tie rod length, camber and perhaps caster.
If you just loosen the strut to wheel hub connection - YES a wheel alignment is recommended, or take care in carefully marking the parts before hand and re-alignment when you put them back together. This joint sets wheel camber.
If you just loosen the ball joint from the control arm on a P2 - a wheel alignment should not be necessary as the connection here is self-centering.

[azureblue]

I knew the alignment would change a little, but this was stupendously out of whack, like the car has a direction of its own...

And thanks for the lesson. Live and learn. Still.

[Tonyx]

OP, what I don't understand is that you said tie rods weren't touched. If so the only thing that got aligned during your alignment were the tie rods. What caused that to change?
Car pulling to one side on acceleration(and ok during cruise) is loose joint. I don't see toe adjustment doing anything in this case.

[azureblue]

as jbeebo said better than I could, changing the control arm, or just the bushing, will affect the alignment, because they will change the toe in or toe out, due to the new bushings changing the angle. Something I knew a little about, but didn't realize that even a 1/8" of difference at the control arm frame mounts will drastically change the toe in / toe out. Lots of geometry going on....

[Tonyx]

The geometry of a control arm between bushings and ball joint pierce points are very well controlled. Piece to piece variation is nil.
Since the effective geometry is more the function of the all the forces in the suspension(tire forces, kinematic forces) due to the 'soft' parts in a control arm(the bushings) I think what you are saying is:
1-your alignment prior to control arm refresh was set to compensate for the damaged/deformed bushing in the old control arm
2-latest alignment after the control arm refresh removed such compensation back to factory spec

[azureblue]

and, as the alignment guy said, "anytime you change bushings or the whole control arm, you will change the alignment. It doesn't take much at all to throw the alignment out. A 1/16th difference at the bushings will do it."