Ok Let me update.
I have the whole system out and will post a play by play on this process when done.
I did find a Part Number: 9140471. Which I was led to believe was the stiffer of the transverse springs. With non nivomate in a wagon. The one in the car, I have reads the same and was stamped code 1, but this one is stamped code 3. not sure what that will do. ( but I am looking at some chevy 1500 coil overs that should slip right into the shock brackets for added load capacity)
Im am currently, in the process of cleaning ever thing and hunting down the repayment rubber spring perch seats, which the spring sits in at the ends of the lower control arms. Also looking for the Rubberized Anchors for the spring which hold it to the lower aluminum cast carriage. ( the original rubber parts are crumbling.)
I hope this project should come back together nicely, and also will allow me to take it all out again if needed for futer repairs of any unexpected type. .
I am Surprised at how un-accessible the rear end is unless you take all this assembly . Anyway it is out, so Im at half way, But even the oil service plug and the transmissions “w” ele lock up ele plug connect is hidden with-in this multi link assembly a-top the rear of the pumpkin out of reach. “Engineers are a sick breed.”
Ok well if any one knows if I landed the correct spring part number 9140471 let me now what you think . before I put it in , in the next week or so... But It seems that everyone who knew anything about a 1996 - 1997 Volvo 960 multilink rear suspension, is dead. To old to talk, or has been abducted by aliens.
1997 960 Multilink Rear transverse leaf spring suspension
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Scottyv
- Posts: 11
- Joined: 4 May 2017
- Year and Model: 1997 VOLVO 960 WAGON
- Location: MINNESOTA USA
- Has thanked: 2 times
Ok Let me update
I have the whole system out and will post a play by play on this process when done.
I did find a Part Number: 9140471. Which I was led to believe was the stiffer of the transverse springs. With non nivomate in a wagon. The one in the car, I have reads the same and was stamped code 1, but this one is stamped code 3. not sure what that will do. ( but I am looking at some chevy 1500 coil overs that should slip right into the shock brackets for added load capacity)
Im am currently, in the process of cleaning ever thing and hunting down the repayment rubber spring perch seats, which the spring sits in at the ends of the lower control arms. Also looking for the Rubberized Anchors for the spring which hold it to the lower aluminum cast carriage. ( the original rubber parts are crumbling.)
I hope this project should come back together nicely, and also will allow me to take it all out again if needed for futer repairs of any unexpected type. .
I am Surprised at how un-accessible the rear end is unless you take all this assembly . Anyway it is out, so Im at half way, But even the oil service plug and the transmissions “w” ele lock up ele plug connect is hidden with-in this multi link assembly a-top the rear of the pumpkin out of reach. “Engineers are a sick breed.”
Ok well if any one knows if I landed the correct spring part number 9140471 let me now what you think . before I put it in , in the next week or so... But It seems that everyone who knew anything about a 1996 - 1997 Volvo 960 multilink rear suspension, is dead. To old to talk, or has been abducted by aliens.
I have the whole system out and will post a play by play on this process when done.
I did find a Part Number: 9140471. Which I was led to believe was the stiffer of the transverse springs. With non nivomate in a wagon. The one in the car, I have reads the same and was stamped code 1, but this one is stamped code 3. not sure what that will do. ( but I am looking at some chevy 1500 coil overs that should slip right into the shock brackets for added load capacity)
Im am currently, in the process of cleaning ever thing and hunting down the repayment rubber spring perch seats, which the spring sits in at the ends of the lower control arms. Also looking for the Rubberized Anchors for the spring which hold it to the lower aluminum cast carriage. ( the original rubber parts are crumbling.)
I hope this project should come back together nicely, and also will allow me to take it all out again if needed for futer repairs of any unexpected type. .
I am Surprised at how un-accessible the rear end is unless you take all this assembly . Anyway it is out, so Im at half way, But even the oil service plug and the transmissions “w” ele lock up ele plug connect is hidden with-in this multi link assembly a-top the rear of the pumpkin out of reach. “Engineers are a sick breed.”
Ok well if any one knows if I landed the correct spring part number 9140471 let me now what you think . before I put it in , in the next week or so... But It seems that everyone who knew anything about a 1996 - 1997 Volvo 960 multilink rear suspension, is dead. To old to talk, or has been abducted by aliens.
-
Scottyv
- Posts: 11
- Joined: 4 May 2017
- Year and Model: 1997 VOLVO 960 WAGON
- Location: MINNESOTA USA
- Has thanked: 2 times
Thread revived
Ok Its done!
Yep after three years sitting and collecting parts I have completely rebuilt the Multi link rear suspension.
I had many other projects ahead of this one.
But, it is now complete and I have many pictures and part numbers to share. If any one is attempting to rebuild a 1997 Volvo 960 wagon rear multi link suspension, let me know if you need advice, PM me ,or I will try back here for up dates.
thanks
Ok Its done!
Yep after three years sitting and collecting parts I have completely rebuilt the Multi link rear suspension.
I had many other projects ahead of this one.
But, it is now complete and I have many pictures and part numbers to share. If any one is attempting to rebuild a 1997 Volvo 960 wagon rear multi link suspension, let me know if you need advice, PM me ,or I will try back here for up dates.
thanks
Hi Scotty! I have a 1998 S90 and i'm interested in overhauling the rear suspension as you have done. It looks like many of the bushings are no longer available to purchase, can you provide any info on where you purchased your parts? Thanks!
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Scottyv
- Posts: 11
- Joined: 4 May 2017
- Year and Model: 1997 VOLVO 960 WAGON
- Location: MINNESOTA USA
- Has thanked: 2 times
Ok just for prosperity sake, I'll try to finish the thread on this.
First off taking on the rear suspension of a 1997 960 multi link suspension of this is not to difficult, unless your wanting to completely rebuild the whole rear suspension, and take out the rear differential.
With that said I of course rebuild all of it, and then did the front sustention too. May be that's a different story
The rear aluminum cage lower portion and differential, with the trailing arms and alignment track arms Suspension Control Arm (Rear, Lower) LINK ARM can come out together. also Suspension Control Arm (Left, right Rear, Lower). CONTROL ARM This will be included with the transverse fiberglass spring in tact, and the spindle wheel bearings rotors and dust shield. It does come out as a fairly complete unit. Leaving the upper cage in if you want . after that you can disassemble the rest.
***Oh and remember to break loose the 32 mm axel nuts before you start with the wheels on the ground, you'll need a breaker bar, the nuts have been punched to keep them from coming loose.
However I found it easier to just remove the four big bolts with the upper cage and lower everything down and out at one time.
this allows you to lower the anti sway bar down with the upper cage as it will block the lowering of the differential if not removing the entire system together. that is a lot longer way around. and I do not recommend it. Just drop the entire system out
once your done you can reinstall it by rolling it into place using a rolling furniture cart, and jack it up into place.
You will want to disassemble the drive shaft from the differential, break lines, E brake lines, E locker plug in. shocks and disconnect the main trialing arms from the lower connection on the wheel hub assembly bottom, these will swing out of the way slightly to allow the whole unit to rollout.
After this you can dissemble the entire unit piece by piece, with not to much difficulty.
Some tricks:
Drain and clean the rear diff and re seal it, with diff cover, and shaft seals, put in the new fluid while you have it out. the plugs are not accessible once reinstalled
install a new parking brake cable system now. it cant be done with the Multi link in place.
Change the fuel pump now as you can access it easy.
Make sure you get all the transverse spring mounting rubber parts ordered and back into place their is a small one in the middle that keep the middle of the spring dampened. the rubber mounts that go at the end of the spring allow the spring to slip out, and get jammed up and that causes the spring to bind and break. The main reinforced rubber mounts in the cent of the spring hold it into place, these are usually spent, along with the one at the outer edge of the spring. It is best just o order a whole new set. These are not cheap but can be had for less if you shop. The trick is to use a big heavy plastic tie wrap to hold the ends in place while installing the spring, I left mine in place for good to keep the spring from coming out of place when the car is jacked up. this is how mine jammed up and broke after jacking nit up to do the brakes and upon lowering it it Jammed and broke it . so it is best to do it with the tie wrap as it hold the end of the spring down keeps it in place.
Suspension Knuckle . BEARING HOUSING if should you want new bearings now is the time, to have them pressed in.
"I never like the shock solution that Volvo came up with on the system, so I used a Monroe Shock Load Adjusting 58658 Shock Absorber. It has the same over all throw as the stock shock and raised up the back of the car just 1/2inch so it still looks stock. it not is a high priced racing "coil over" but for a heavy load or use of the third row seat its a great solution. the trick is to pound out the lower steel insert in the Monroe shock ,( it best to oil it in the bushing and drive it out with a pin or us a bolt that just pushes the steel sleeve out.) This will leave you with the rubber shock bushing to slide over the shock lower mount on the trailing arm. I used a larger strut washer and rubber bushing from my 2001 Chevy Silverado front shock struts, as an extra precaution on the out side of the shock lower mount, and used the Volvo stock shock bolt to attach the Monroe shock . The upper steel sleeve on the Monroe will not fit into the upper bolt housing unless you die grinding off about 3/16th to a 1/4 inch. But you do not have to pound it out it work with the stock bolt. After grinding it down and clean, then it fits and mounts just like the factory upper shock. ( loosing the anti sway bar will help get them in but i just fenagled it in). It works perfect and now I have the confidence that the transverse spring has the real help it needs, as it is under "powered" to hold the car up. even being the non Nivomat version."
I have the heavy transverse spring number 9140471 which is for the non Nivomat cars
....at the cost of Coil overs I could do this every two years and still not cost what those would.
The shock are designed for the Ford Transit, which is similar in weight and load capacity as our wagons.
The Monroe shock has a 13.5" compress measurement and a 18.75" fully extended measurement.
our stock shocks are 13" compressed and 19" extended. I like that the transit shock keeps from over extending the transvers spring, and give me a higher pay load capacity while not over burdening the fiberglass transverse spring..
Mind you I replaced most ever thing with new or recondition parts and refurbished and rust proofed everything, so I guess now doing shocks, is easy.
This was one of the best improvement for set $100.00 load adjusting shocks. on Amazon. these are the Monroe shocks for the ford transit utility van.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073K ... svolvo3-20
well I ask you to for give me my horrible typing skills, but I hope this helps others tackle this very serious R/R of the rear Multi link suspension system.
It really is a wonderful, system It just takes more to work on. However, the result is a wagon that can take corner like a sports car. And since these cars are not really fast, I trade that for the great handling they have.
First off taking on the rear suspension of a 1997 960 multi link suspension of this is not to difficult, unless your wanting to completely rebuild the whole rear suspension, and take out the rear differential.
With that said I of course rebuild all of it, and then did the front sustention too. May be that's a different story
The rear aluminum cage lower portion and differential, with the trailing arms and alignment track arms Suspension Control Arm (Rear, Lower) LINK ARM can come out together. also Suspension Control Arm (Left, right Rear, Lower). CONTROL ARM This will be included with the transverse fiberglass spring in tact, and the spindle wheel bearings rotors and dust shield. It does come out as a fairly complete unit. Leaving the upper cage in if you want . after that you can disassemble the rest.
***Oh and remember to break loose the 32 mm axel nuts before you start with the wheels on the ground, you'll need a breaker bar, the nuts have been punched to keep them from coming loose.
However I found it easier to just remove the four big bolts with the upper cage and lower everything down and out at one time.
this allows you to lower the anti sway bar down with the upper cage as it will block the lowering of the differential if not removing the entire system together. that is a lot longer way around. and I do not recommend it. Just drop the entire system out
once your done you can reinstall it by rolling it into place using a rolling furniture cart, and jack it up into place.
You will want to disassemble the drive shaft from the differential, break lines, E brake lines, E locker plug in. shocks and disconnect the main trialing arms from the lower connection on the wheel hub assembly bottom, these will swing out of the way slightly to allow the whole unit to rollout.
After this you can dissemble the entire unit piece by piece, with not to much difficulty.
Some tricks:
Drain and clean the rear diff and re seal it, with diff cover, and shaft seals, put in the new fluid while you have it out. the plugs are not accessible once reinstalled
install a new parking brake cable system now. it cant be done with the Multi link in place.
Change the fuel pump now as you can access it easy.
Make sure you get all the transverse spring mounting rubber parts ordered and back into place their is a small one in the middle that keep the middle of the spring dampened. the rubber mounts that go at the end of the spring allow the spring to slip out, and get jammed up and that causes the spring to bind and break. The main reinforced rubber mounts in the cent of the spring hold it into place, these are usually spent, along with the one at the outer edge of the spring. It is best just o order a whole new set. These are not cheap but can be had for less if you shop. The trick is to use a big heavy plastic tie wrap to hold the ends in place while installing the spring, I left mine in place for good to keep the spring from coming out of place when the car is jacked up. this is how mine jammed up and broke after jacking nit up to do the brakes and upon lowering it it Jammed and broke it . so it is best to do it with the tie wrap as it hold the end of the spring down keeps it in place.
Suspension Knuckle . BEARING HOUSING if should you want new bearings now is the time, to have them pressed in.
"I never like the shock solution that Volvo came up with on the system, so I used a Monroe Shock Load Adjusting 58658 Shock Absorber. It has the same over all throw as the stock shock and raised up the back of the car just 1/2inch so it still looks stock. it not is a high priced racing "coil over" but for a heavy load or use of the third row seat its a great solution. the trick is to pound out the lower steel insert in the Monroe shock ,( it best to oil it in the bushing and drive it out with a pin or us a bolt that just pushes the steel sleeve out.) This will leave you with the rubber shock bushing to slide over the shock lower mount on the trailing arm. I used a larger strut washer and rubber bushing from my 2001 Chevy Silverado front shock struts, as an extra precaution on the out side of the shock lower mount, and used the Volvo stock shock bolt to attach the Monroe shock . The upper steel sleeve on the Monroe will not fit into the upper bolt housing unless you die grinding off about 3/16th to a 1/4 inch. But you do not have to pound it out it work with the stock bolt. After grinding it down and clean, then it fits and mounts just like the factory upper shock. ( loosing the anti sway bar will help get them in but i just fenagled it in). It works perfect and now I have the confidence that the transverse spring has the real help it needs, as it is under "powered" to hold the car up. even being the non Nivomat version."
I have the heavy transverse spring number 9140471 which is for the non Nivomat cars
....at the cost of Coil overs I could do this every two years and still not cost what those would.
The shock are designed for the Ford Transit, which is similar in weight and load capacity as our wagons.
The Monroe shock has a 13.5" compress measurement and a 18.75" fully extended measurement.
our stock shocks are 13" compressed and 19" extended. I like that the transit shock keeps from over extending the transvers spring, and give me a higher pay load capacity while not over burdening the fiberglass transverse spring..
Mind you I replaced most ever thing with new or recondition parts and refurbished and rust proofed everything, so I guess now doing shocks, is easy.
This was one of the best improvement for set $100.00 load adjusting shocks. on Amazon. these are the Monroe shocks for the ford transit utility van.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073K ... svolvo3-20
well I ask you to for give me my horrible typing skills, but I hope this helps others tackle this very serious R/R of the rear Multi link suspension system.
It really is a wonderful, system It just takes more to work on. However, the result is a wagon that can take corner like a sports car. And since these cars are not really fast, I trade that for the great handling they have.
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