Bad Alternator/Pulley Noise?

alexv702003 · Post by **alexv702003** » 10 Aug 2017, 22:33

Hi, I have a 2003 V70 FWD Base.

I have a noise coming from the alternator/power steering pump area. A mechanic said it was either the power steering pump or alternator. I replaced the power steering pump and the noise is still there.

I took a video of it today. YouTube Video Link:

Notice how the alternator pulley moves in and out with the noise. I don't think it's suppose to do that. Should I replace only the pulley or the whole alternator?

Thanks for any help guys

Post by **abscate** » 11 Aug 2017, 03:06

Get a piece of garden hose and listen with one end in your ear and move the other end around the engine until you find the noise. You will hear all sorts of clicks and things that you cannot hear without the hose, so don't freak.

Honestly, a mechanic who can't isolate a noise isn't earning his/her keep very well

Sometimes you can tell an alternator noise by listening carefully as you load the electrical system ( lights on high beams) and listening for a change in the noise

Post by **precopster** » 11 Aug 2017, 04:57

That pulley does appear to move.

As well as abscate's hints above totally disconnecting the accessory belt just to be certain the noise is from this area will help.

Don't do this for too long as the battery will flatten without alternator drive.

Also while the belt is off you can finally hold and turn the alternator. There should be no axial play.

Post by **oragex** » 11 Aug 2017, 08:31

The chirping with rattle indicates a dry pulley with play

The mechanic is not good, the power steering pump doesn't make noise like this and doesn't fail like other pulleys. Perhaps I'd look for another garage first and ask them to remove the belt. Then roll by hand the tensioner pulley (the pulley at the left that doesn't appear in the video). It should feel smooth and without play. Then move the alternator pulley and test it
this is a dry pulley with play:

Give a try to the air conditioning compressor pulley as well, it normally dries out after 120k miles

It is wise to replace all these parts with original Volvo ones, used in good condition is by far the cheapest option - scrap yards and Ebay have plenty. Make sure to match the alternator from a car with same transmission, about year and ampers. You can (and should) bring your own part to the mechanic as they almost always will get a cheap low quality part in there.

93SCMax · Post by **93SCMax** » 11 Aug 2017, 10:01

alexv702003 wrote: ↑10 Aug 2017, 22:33 Should I replace only the pulley or the whole alternator?

I would just replace the pulley. Check for threads on how to do. I had to remove my alternator because the pulley was seized on and I had to "cut it off". You will need a special tool to remove the pulley, and if the pulley isn't seized on, I'm sure you can replace it on engine. Pulley's are cheap, alternators are very expensive.
Good luck.

alexv702003 · Post by **alexv702003** » 11 Aug 2017, 10:26

Ok I listened around the engine with a garden hose and also a screwdriver and the noise is coming from the alternator.

I was looking at replacements and it seems there is a freestyle wheel pulley and also a clutch pulley type. Do you guys know which one works for my car?

Post by **mrbrian200** » 11 Aug 2017, 10:42

It's probably the pulley. I could also be failed bearings allowing the entire armature to move in and out. You'll want to make sure that's not the case before replacing just the pulley. Pry out on the pulley and look to see if the movement is in the pulley or whether the armature it mounts to is moving. If the armature is loose you'll need to pull the alternator and either replace or have it rebuilt.

Post by **SuperHerman** » 11 Aug 2017, 10:55

On my 2004 XC90 I just had my alternator and starter rebuilt at the local Starter/Alternator/Electric motor rebuilder for $185.

On the alternator they replaced the two bearings and the Bosch electronics. As I didn't care, and to save money, they didn't bead blast the exterior - although they did clean everything that mattered really well. I believe the alternator rebuild was around $100 and both units were turned around in a day.

Call round and get some quotes. Were it me I would have yours rebuilt and be good for another 100k plus miles.

Unless it is new, who knows what brand of bearings were replaced if at all, and if they used a real Bosch replacement on the electronics.

93SCMax · Post by **93SCMax** » 11 Aug 2017, 12:33

Clutch pulley type. They fail and are replaceable.

alexv702003 wrote: ↑11 Aug 2017, 10:26 I was looking at replacements and it seems there is a freestyle wheel pulley and also a clutch pulley type. Do you guys know which one works for my car?

Post by **oragex** » 11 Aug 2017, 15:59

As above, I think all are clutch type. When I suspected mine, I ended up getting a used alternator from a scrap yard - again, has to match a few things. I'm happy I did that, far less work than trying to remove the pulley: you'll need a special tool to remove the pulley plus it may not work that easily, plus you'll need a quality pulley about the same price of a used alternator. There are a few vids up on Youtube about replacing the pulley. If replacing the whole alternator, don't discard the regulator on your original one. You may even swap the regulator to get the right charging.