2007 S60 2.5T AWD Fuel Pressure Damper Location Topic is solved

[soulvoid21]

You usually get a misfire code when a coil goes. The cracks and stuff don't really indicate much, they either work or they don't. Incidentally, the get constant 12 VDC from the ignition system, and are grounded by the ECU to fire, so they can't be checked running without some EE skills.

They are date stamped - they last >100k miles typically.

Get cheap Bosch copper, single electrodes and replace every 30k. Skip all the Unobtanium BELCHFIRE stuff, you can also regap them at 30k and get another 30k out of them.

The coils MUST be bolted in with those M6 bolts, clean and tight. They are the grounds for the coil current and the HV, so they have to be electrically clean.

You can gap to two business cards thickness if you work for a privately held company, and three if its publicly traded.

Alright, I definitely don't have a CEL, and I don't believe I have any codes. The crappy Bluetooth reader I have doesn't work with this car, lol. So I can't say for sure yet if is has any stored codes or not. However, before I replaced the Cam and Crank sensors, I was getting a random misfire code, along with others pointing to Crank and Cam. Those codes have gone away, not sure about the random misfire. I will try to get an update for sure.

I figured there wasn't an easy way of testing the coils, just wasn't sure. I was not aware that the bolts are the grounds however, I will definitely check those again to make sure they're grounding correctly. Sounds like this would be the kind of dumb thing to happen

I'll grab a box of the Bosch from my local auto store after I check the fuel pressure and make sure I don't have any codes. I'll also grab a spark plug gapper as well

[soulvoid21]

And here's some pictures of the grounds. That I can find any way.

Braided



Regular grounds

[soulvoid21]

You usually get a misfire code when a coil goes. The cracks and stuff don't really indicate much, they either work or they don't. Incidentally, the get constant 12 VDC from the ignition system, and are grounded by the ECU to fire, so they can't be checked running without some EE skills.

They are date stamped - they last >100k miles typically.

Get cheap Bosch copper, single electrodes and replace every 30k. Skip all the Unobtanium BELCHFIRE stuff, you can also regap them at 30k and get another 30k out of them.

The coils MUST be bolted in with those M6 bolts, clean and tight. They are the grounds for the coil current and the HV, so they have to be electrically clean.

You can gap to two business cards thickness if you work for a privately held company, and three if its publicly traded.

Alright, I definitely don't have a CEL, and I don't believe I have any codes. The crappy Bluetooth reader I have doesn't work with this car, lol. So I can't say for sure yet if is has any stored codes or not. However, before I replaced the Cam and Crank sensors, I was getting a random misfire code, along with others pointing to Crank and Cam. Those codes have gone away, not sure about the random misfire. I will try to get an update for sure.

I figured there wasn't an easy way of testing the coils, just wasn't sure. I was not aware that the bolts are the grounds however, I will definitely check those again to make sure they're grounding correctly. Sounds like this would be the kind of dumb thing to happen

I'll grab a box of the Bosch from my local auto store after I check the fuel pressure and make sure I don't have any codes. I'll also grab a spark plug gapper as well

When you say the Bosch Coppers, you're talking about these, correct?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/spark- ... r7dc-super

[abscate]

That's right. You need six of them

[soulvoid21]

Alrighty, so I got the plugs in the mail today. I just want to say good on FCP. I received them next day even though I chose 3 day shipping. This isn't the first time either, happens with most small parts I get from them. Awesome site.

But... still doing the same thing. However, not as badly. Cold starts seem to be spot on now. Once it starts to warm up though, the hesitation at start comes back. The idle is a lot smoother, take offs are smoother, high end revs are smoother as well. I used to get a hesitation between letting off and getting back on the throttle in traffic as well, but that's gone.

Here is a video of a warm start, wasn't fully to temp, but the engine was warm from idling in the driveway with the A/C on.


The hesitation will happen 2-3 times sometimes, the starter stays engaged and will catch the engine when it stalls, then bring the RPMs back up to a running number. But it will idle a little rough until I tap the gas. Then it's fine. Other times it will simply stop, the starter disengages, all the lights shutoff, and then it tries again as if I turned the key off and back on super fast.

I have noticed that if I shut it off, then start it right back up waiting but maybe 3 seconds, it'll start alright.

I also used a wire wheel, cleaned up the coil packs and grounds on the head. Everything is smooth and shiny. They were a tad dirty, but nothing that should have been causing issues.

The Volvo plugs that were in it were also gapped between .6 and .7 when I pulled them out. Same with the Bosch when I pulled them out of the boxes.

So at this point, I've ordered a fuel pressure tester, I was not able to find one locally that wasn't an arm and a leg. I also ordered this scanner to see if anything is coming up.

https://www.amazon.com/ANCEL-AD310-Enha ... B01G5EA74I

I will let you know what I find when these come in.

Thanks again

[soulvoid21]

Alrighty, I finally got my scan tool, but my fuel pressure tester has not come in yet, though I don't think I'll need it.

I'm still stumped, but my scan tool has confirmed that I'm not losing fuel pressure during startup. On live data with the Key in position II without the engine running, it shows ~43-45psi. During startup, it spikes to around 50-55 and will slowly come back down to 45psi for idle. I cannot test if I'm getting a drain after the car is shut off, as I don't have my tester yet as I said. But to me, just with the scan tool, fuel pressure seems OK.

I do not have any stored or pending codes, and misfire tests show OK. I'm not sure what else to look for. To me, everything looks to be alright.

I still have a steady 14.1Vs in the electrical, with no dips or surges.

I run clean 91 octane from a reliable source and the car has plenty of power. In fact, after changing the spark plugs, my 0-60 definitely got a little bit shorter.

So what should I look for next? Not sure if it's possible by the admins, but if someone wants to change the title of this to something more fitting, please feel free.

[soulvoid21]

It's looking like my fuel pressure tester won't be here until next week -_- Depending on weather and how I'm feeling, I may pull my injectors, hook them up to a 12v, and see about cleaning them out with some carb cleaner. I did this before with my 850 and was successful at fixing a sticky injector.

I just went out for a drive and got the car nice and hot. Checked the fuel pressure with my scanner when I got home, and am still getting 50-55psi during startup, but still getting the hesitation as well.

I will update if I end up cleaning my injectors.

[soulvoid21]

Something worth noting that seems to be a newer symptom. My radiator fan is staying on sometimes after I shut the car off sometimes, no matter what operating temperature it's at. I know this could be a sign that the ECT or Thermostat is going bad.

I had the ECT in my 850 R shit the bed on me a few years ago, it caused hard starts, stalls if I let the RPMs get just a tad too low (manual trans), the fans would run after shutting down, but it never got hot. The gauge would go just a tad over the middle line, and after changing, always stayed below the line.

I noticed my S60, the gauge was just a hair over the center line when the fans were continuing to run the other day. What are my chances at getting away with an easy fix such as this? Is there anything I can test (resistance of the sensor, etc) to find if it's failing? I will double check in the morning, but I believe it's the original temp housing, and wasn't replaced with warranty engine.

[jimmy57]

First off you need to know if there is a problem. My P2 models I've owned or had as company cars all did what you describe as of 2004 model year and later. The ECM looks at lot of things. If I pull up to my drive and grab mail when it is 85 or hotter then FAR (fan after run). If I drove more aggressively in the last 8 minutes before shut down then FAR. If it is 100+ then FAR. Any time the fan was running at shut down due to engine temp if a/c was not on then FAR. The FAR has a short duration and a long duration too. On occasion the long FAR would happen I would worry that it wasn't going off as I could unload the frozen groceries, go back and get the refrigerated and put away and then go back for other stuff and it would still be on. Then I would go check again and it was finally off.
The dead end fuel system on your car lets fuel get hotter in fuel rail and it is harder to deal with so running fan after shut down is to cool engine off to suppress the vaporization of fuel since the ECM doesn't know if you will want to start and drive again in 12 minutes after shut down.
You may have a thermostat aging but you might also spend the money and do the work and it still behaves the same way. It runs way more than 850 fans do for the reasons above not all applying to 850s. My 850 and 1998 C70 and 98 XC70 only did FAR if I drove like a raging maniac within the last few minutes before shut down. Newer ones do it more readily.

Oh, BTW, that higher fuel pressure on hot or warm restart is also part of the vapor lock handling. If the fuel rail has any vapor pockets then running fuel pressure up higher will condense them just like capping a bubbling soda bottle.

[soulvoid21]

First off you need to know if there is a problem. My P2 models I've owned or had as company cars all did what you describe as of 2004 model year and later. The ECM looks at lot of things. If I pull up to my drive and grab mail when it is 85 or hotter then FAR (fan after run). If I drove more aggressively in the last 8 minutes before shut down then FAR. If it is 100+ then FAR. Any time the fan was running at shut down due to engine temp if a/c was not on then FAR. The FAR has a short duration and a long duration too. On occasion the long FAR would happen I would worry that it wasn't going off as I could unload the frozen groceries, go back and get the refrigerated and put away and then go back for other stuff and it would still be on. Then I would go check again and it was finally off.
The dead end fuel system on your car lets fuel get hotter in fuel rail and it is harder to deal with so running fan after shut down is to cool engine off to suppress the vaporization of fuel since the ECM doesn't know if you will want to start and drive again in 12 minutes after shut down.
You may have a thermostat aging but you might also spend the money and do the work and it still behaves the same way. It runs way more than 850 fans do for the reasons above not all applying to 850s. My 850 and 1998 C70 and 98 XC70 only did FAR if I drove like a raging maniac within the last few minutes before shut down. Newer ones do it more readily.

Oh, BTW, that higher fuel pressure on hot or warm restart is also part of the vapor lock handling. If the fuel rail has any vapor pockets then running fuel pressure up higher will condense them just like capping a bubbling soda bottle.

I know it can happen and doesn't necessarily mean something is wrong, but even on days where it was 115 in my parking lot at work, the fan wouldn't run after shutdown after driving like a nut. Just figured it was worth mentioning as it's a possible easy fix if fuel pressure isn't an issue.

I get what you're saying about the engine heat soaking the fuel, but this happens even just while testing in the driveway without a hot car. If I start the car, let it idle for 5 or so minutes with the A/C on, and let it get about a quarter or half way to operating temp, it will start to give the startup symptoms. It doesn't only do this on hot days, this all started in the winter, so it's not an issue with heat soak.

It even happens on cold starts, just not as often.

Fuel pressure gauge should be here Monday, will do a proper reading then.