Doing a head gasket, front cam seals, timing belt etc.

[ems_kws]

My 00 V70 XC has started to over heat. It first started leaking on the coolant overflow tank so I replaced that thinking it was original and likely just failed due to age. When I pulled the old one out it seemed very bulged but I didn't think much about it. There were several small cracks in the old plastic. Then I started out on a trip and blew a crack in the radiator. I replaced that as well but my suspicions of a possible deeper issue where arose. I took it out again to test it after the radiator was replaced and after about 30 miles it overheated on a good grade.

The overflow tank seemed to be full and boiling when I had pulled over and checked it. Some steam escaped the overflow cap but not much.

There is no oil in the water that I can see nor is there any water in the oil. I don't see any white smoke out the tailpipe. I am thinking the head gasket has failed in an area where the cylinder in pressurizing the coolant system causing the pressure in the overflow tank that bulged and cracked the original one and then cracking the radiator.

Assuming I an correct in my beliefs of the problem( and feel free to guide me to better conclusions). I am looking at replacing the head gasket and related seals, timing belt, tensioner, and idler, front camshaft seals, water pump, thermostat, spark plugs, oil and filter, and the PVC breather system.

Is there anything else to fix while everything is opened up?
Should I just plan on a rebuilt head and if so from where?
Is the $110 camshaft locking tool from IPD worth it for one project?
Is the $55 Crankshaft Pulley Holder/Removal Tool worth it?
Does it take one front cam seal with a CVVT and one without a CVVT?

[kahl]

Before you jump into the pool I would do a compression test and just for giggles change out the thermostat. Is your second radiator fan working?

[Ozark Lee]

Before I ripped the head off I would use a block tester to see if there are combustion gases in the coolant. Auto Zone "rents" the tester but you need to buy the fluid. Its only about $8.00 the last time I bought it.

If the block tester comes up negative (the dye does not change color) it is not 100% conclusive but it the dye does change color then that is conclusive and it is usually a head gasket. It can also be a cracked block but usually not unless it got really, really hot.

...Lee

[ems_kws]

Before I ripped the head off I would use a block tester to see if there are combustion gases in the coolant. Auto Zone "rents" the tester but you need to buy the fluid. Its only about $8.00 the last time I bought it.

If the block tester comes up negative (the dye does not change color) it is not 100% conclusive but it the dye does change color then that is conclusive and it is usually a head gasket. It can also be a cracked block but usually not unless it got really, really hot.

...Lee

I'll try that tomorrow. Borrowed a compression tester from a friend so I'll add it to the list.

[erikv11]

+1 to testing for exhaust gases in the coolant - and this kind of head gasket leak is fairly common on these cars, sadly I think your diagnosis is likely correct.

Just remove the thermostat to test that out, no need to buy anything.

[bmdubya1198]

If you end up doing this job and would feel more comfortable using a camshaft locking tool, buy this one on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-Crankshaf ... 1438.l2649
Good quality tools and they're certainly worth the less than $50 they cost. You get the crank locker, cam locker, and cam cover seating tool.
I've never needed the crank locker (nor do I know which tool it is...), but the cam locker is very helpful on timing belt jobs on VVT engines.

[ems_kws]

I was planning on a timing belt change while I had everything torn down. There is a silver sticker with a date and mileage written on it that I had thought was likely showing that it had been done. The print on the sticker is half faded or rubbed off but then I saw the IPD timing belt sticker and it matches the parts of the sticker that are still legible. It looks like the timing belt was done 41K ago. Should I go ahead and do it or just call it good?
K.W.

[erikv11]

41k is not many miles for timing parts (hopefully rollers were done too, not just the belt). If you don't mind going back in after another 60k then definitely let it ride.

Crank pulley removal I have never done, and I've done a few head gaskets. Nor when refreshing things while swapping engines. Cam lock tool is nice to have but not essential and no reason to spend up on that, it is a few-time usage tool for DIYers.

Rebuilt head is a very good idea. The valve stem seals on these heads are all mostly shot by now, I would recommend you fix those no matter what while you have the head off. For rebuilt people here used to by from Clearwater Heads (or similar) in Florida, or just get yours surfaced and rebuilt at a decent machine shop with valves lapped and all new valve stem seals. Volvo only on those seals! you can get a kit of all seals for about 80 bucks. Have the machine shop clean up the cam cover too, give them the head cams and cam cover, it will make assembly much easier.

[scot850]

If you are just replacing the head gasket not sure why you need the crank pulley tool? You can replace the belt without removing the crank pulley.

I do not go by mileage on timing belts but age especially if it is hot and dry as the belts crack more quickly. The time limit is around 10 years, but visually check the belt for cracking around the teeth in it. If you have to pull the belt anyway to do a head gasket makes sense to do the pulleys and belt as in a good kit. I recommend only using the Volvo manual tensioner pulley as the aftermarket ones caused me no end of grief. Volvo recommend a water pump for every 2x timing belt change.

The guys have recommended all the right checks so I would do the same. Do you know when the thermostat was last changed? Depending how you fill the coolant you can get a lot of trapped air and the system can 'burp' a fair amount, but the exhaust gas check is a good idea anyway.

They also recommend checking the cooling fan is running. Does the temp gauge work normally (i.e. is the engine temp sender ok as it controls the fan through a relay)?

Good luck!

Neil.

[splattj]

I picked up my '99 thinking it was a head gasket due to nearly identical circumstances. When I started to tear down I took the water pump out and the aftermarket pump impeller just fell out in pieces as it was plastic. Might be worth checking that before you start pulling the head off.