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P80 Ignition switch, Electrical part, 9447804 Root Failure Analysis Topic is solved

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
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This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » P80 Ignition Switch, Root Failure Analysis
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cn90
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Re: P80 Ignition switch, Electrical part, 9447804 Root Failure Analysis

Post by cn90 »

OK,

- Changed my mind (don't like throwing out good stuff). Managed to bend the copper tab back in place. Checked with Ohmmeter for continuity: perfect.

- When you look at the design, it is simple, the plastic wheel rotates around, in the process of doing that, it either opens or closes appropriate circuits such as "15" and "30" and "Start".

- If you look at the photo I posted above, there are 2 types of contacts: the longer copper tabs ---> there are 3 of them, probably for "30" circuits that require more current, thus 2 copper tabs to keep pressure solid. The plastic wheel LARGER DIAMETER section is for these 3.

- The shorter copper tabs: there are 2 of them, my guess is it is for "15" circuits such as radio etc. The plastic wheel SMALLER DIAMETER section is for these 2. Play around with the plastic wheel and you will see what I mean.

- When you re-install it, pay attention to the PLASTIC WHEEL metal prong that angles at 45 degrees, it can only rotate within the confine of "0" and "start", about 120 degrees span or so. Look at the other half, you will see it. Make sure it fits that way. Also, re-install the spring and pin, this thingy makes you feel each distinct turn of the key "0", "15", and "30".
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Post by abscate »

When you have this thing apart you can see the " key spins around " failure mode easily
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Post by cn90 »

There is another DIY by jreed, this is a must-read as it has all the photos showing the metal tab that can only fit in the confine of the other half...

READ THIS:
viewtopic.php?t=64352
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cn90
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Post by cn90 »

I took the photo from jreed DIY to show people how to put things back together.
The metal prong travels within the space shown in RED arrow.

RE: "key spins 360 degrees" syndrome, this happens b/c the metal part separate from the plastic wheel. In this case, you definitely need a new Ignition Switch.

If you only have intermittent electrical gremlins as I mentioned above, a quick clean using fine sandpaper may be adequate.



IgnSw-04.jpg
IgnSw-04.jpg (151.33 KiB) Viewed 2309 times
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Post by wizechatmgr »

New ignition switch time for me.

I have been able over the past months to spin the key 360 degrees. Just recently she started shutting off while driving. Tried the cheap fix of the relay, now time to replace the switch. Looks to be an easy job with the right tools, part and lighting...
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Post by abscate »

15 minutes , just make sure you have a skinny Torx for the plastic cover screws.

Some have reported the white coupler comes off, and mixing up the pins, but there is a thread here with them labelled, if you search.

Driveway open, don't forget to disconnect negative terminal
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Post by wizechatmgr »

Relatively sure I don't have a Torx of the length and slimness required. Actually I have some in Schenectady but I'm unwilling to drive that far to pick them up.

Figure this may be a Tuesday or Weds. project. From what I'm seeing based upon my higher chassis number, I'm using the "new" style switch that looks to be a lot more prone to issues. That said, it lasted as long as it did, so it cannot be THAT prone to issues.

Time to head home and catch some much needed sleep. Our Colonie dealership parts department opens at 10 AM today =)
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Post by abscate »

Stop by and pick one up from my house tomorrow if you are out. Have both Torx and spare switch...new style


Last bumped by abscate on 28 Mar 2020, 16:52.
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