Shocks/struts Question 1996 Volvo 850 glt

tylenol · Post by **tylenol** » 30 Aug 2007, 18:35

Hi,
I went to the dealer to do an alignment (1996 volvo 850glt) and they told me that they could not because my driver side strut is leaking and that the strut mount is broken. I went home and took everything apart. Now I didn't see anything wrong with the strut mount on the driver side and it looks the same as the one on the passenger side.( they said that the passenger side is ok). so then? Both strut mounts have very very little play... is that normal? or they have to be stiff?
And my other question is about the shocks. Is it normal to be able to push them in by hand? I can push them in and they remain that way... I thought they were supposed to come back out by themselves. I can take them out also by hand. Both struts look and behave the same so are they both broken or still good? They said driver side was leaking but it looks just dirty... Many thanks in advance for suggestions and tips!
Also is Sears a good place to get an alignment?

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 30 Aug 2007, 21:08

Sounds like everything is normal and someone tried to make a quick buck from you (or several bucks). Sears? Don't know....I take our cars to National Tire and Battery...they seem to be a good place, but like any, depends on the person doing the job. What I like about NT&B is that the alignment I bought is good for a year and it doesn't matter if I change out suspension parts or not- they will re-align for free up to that year. Most NT&B places are near malls....also, the 1 year is transferable to any of their stores, so if you're on a trip and need an alignment, just find one of their stores wherever you are.

tylenol · Post by **tylenol** » 30 Aug 2007, 21:26

The guys who told me all that were at the Volvo dealer! Now I am really angry because I already ordered the parts from FCP Groton. Here is a picture of the mounts... they really don't look broken to me.
[img=http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/3818/vimg1966xx2.jpg]
Thanks for the NTB info.. I have one around and didn't know about their alignment deal.

tylenol · Post by **tylenol** » 30 Aug 2007, 21:27

Ok, that didnt come out right...

here's the picture

Post by **pfeener** » 31 Aug 2007, 07:29

Just so we get our vocabulary right. You have spring seats (the black rubber seat that holds the top of the spring) and strut mounts, which is the bearing surface that allows the strut to turn with the wheel.

Usually the strut mount is OK. You can easily test it by feeling for play or binding in the bearing. The spring seats are what usually break. Yours seem to look OK from the picture, but you should check for cracks around the center hole from the underside of the seat. The struts are meant to dampen the spring action and don't normally have a lot of spring action to them. The best way to test them is to bounce the car on each fender. If you can easily get more than a few inches of up and down action going, it's time.

Post by **JRL** » 31 Aug 2007, 10:20

pfeener wrote:Just so we get our vocabulary right. You have spring seats (the black rubber seat that holds the top of the spring) and strut mounts, which is the bearing surface that allows the strut to turn with the wheel.

Usually the strut mount is OK. You can easily test it by feeling for play or binding in the bearing. The spring seats are what usually break. Yours seem to look OK from the picture, but you should check for cracks around the center hole from the underside of the seat. The struts are meant to dampen the spring action and don't normally have a lot of spring action to them. The best way to test them is to bounce the car on each fender. If you can easily get more than a few inches of up and down action going, it's time.

Not really, they break quite often, usually around 90,000-100,000 miles
If you are replacing struts or a spring seat you would be foolish not to install all new strut mounts and spring seats at this time.
Whenever I install new struts I do this as a matter of choice but consider it a necessity as at some point or another after 80K miles they WILL fail.
Besides, they front end feel SO much better, like new!
When I got my 850R at 61K miles it needed a few mechanical things
(steering rack, rear main seal, etc.) I decided instead of doing things all at different times
I just ripped the front end apart and installed a new steering rack, inner and outer tie rods, timing belt, motor mounts, ( ipd sway bars), Koni struts and shocks with all new strut mounts and spring seats, FULL 60K service, tune up, etc, flushed the brake fluid and the coolant.
The only things on my car's front end that are still original are the control arm bushings and they are still 100%, (checked every oil change)!
After the work and for the past two years the car has run as new (better than new) with 0 problems.
Big money spent up front for sure, but the joy of driving this one has been worth it, probably the best driving and best looking 850R in existence