1994 855t- have questions, need answers/advice...

oceanman · Post by **oceanman** » 04 Sep 2007, 12:23

i bought my wagon in march. it had 202k mi and i've since added 11k. i am determined to do as many of the maintenance and repairs myself. it is more complex than anything else i have owned. it is the first car i've had with:fwd, automatic transmission, turbo, power everything, etc. this website has helped me many times and i thank everyone here.

a little background on what i have done:
i replaced the PCV system (fcp groton). there were oil leaks all over the place, and i couldn't pinpoint where they were coming from, but now they are gone! however, when i removed everything, there was black crud like cholesterol in all of the pcv hoses as well as the intake manifold. i cleaned the manifold as best as i could with a wire brush and some brake cleaner.

i replaced most of the rubber vacuum hoses with silicone ones. the old rubber hoses were rotting out (i constantly pull dtc's 212 and 153 (o2 sensors) and want to try to fix any vac leaks before i jump on the sensors). i even replaced the elbows for the fpr and egr. when i was replacing them i found the hoses from the TCV to the turbo were miss-routed. the yellow port, which should go to the waste gate, went to the compressor. the red port, which should go to the compressor, ran to the pcv t-pipe on the intake. the waste gate was connected to the line that runs under the spark plug cover to the vacuum tree.

now that everyone is thoroughly confused...
i re-routed them according to the diagram on the hood and it ran great for a couple of days. now when i accelerate, i hear the turbo spinning, but there isn't the big punch anymore. i will double check all of the connections and make sure there are no leaks, but i am wondering if i caused a problem by re-routing the hoses like i did.

i have a laundry list of things to do:
-replace intercooler hoses with silicone. i have the old rubber ones and they are soft, possibly leaking, also causing o2 codes.
-flush tranny. this should be relatively easy because the previous owner cut a 'magnafine' in-line filter in the tranny line that goes to the top of the intercooler.
-replace plugs, wires, and distributor. sometimes pull misfire codes.
-change fuel filter, radiator hoses, coolant temp sensor, and injector o-rings (i think they are leaking too...)

i also have a question about the steering
i have never had a fwd car before so i've never had to deal with cv issues.
when i am turning there is a 'clack-clack-clack' sound. it happens on left and right turns. i have no idea if it is the boots or axles or what.

the previous owner did some mods;
-ipd chipped the computer
-changed the exhaust
-sway bar under the hood on the strut mounts

sorry to leave such a long post, but i wanted to leave as much information as i could without all of the back and forth.

any advice or info would be greatly appreciated. thank you.

Klausc · Post by **Klausc** » 04 Sep 2007, 13:29

You are doing great! Keep it up and you will have a very trusty car.
The 2 reversed vacuum lines to the turbo, are they both clean? and no leaks? I am thinking a small vacuum leak somewhere, like a loose clamp.

The clacking sounds like sway bar end links. Just grab one and see if it makes noise when you push and pull on it. Otherwise, it could be CV joints.

Replace the distributer and cap while the intercooler plumbing is off. Much easier to get to the 3 screws for the cap.

It is a hard thing to get new injector seals, but I think the 1995 Mustang had the same injectors. Worth checking out. If the seals leak, then your idle will be abnormally high. The top seals are what normally go first, and tthen you get a little gas smell. But verify that the fuel pressure regulator is not pouring fuel into the intake manifold via the small vacuum line.

Klaus

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 04 Sep 2007, 14:58

A great start on Stage 0. When was the timing belt last changed? With the normal service schedule you were due at 210,000 miles.

I wish I could help more with the turbo issues but I drive a N/A version.

...Lee

oceanman · Post by **oceanman** » 04 Sep 2007, 19:49

a quick update...
i poked around under the hood this evening after the engine cooled down a bit. that thing really puts out some heat! the vac hose that runs from the turbo bypass valve to the nipple on the front of the throttle body apparently has such a vacuum on it that when the silicone heated it became soft and collapsed. it looked like a neon blue tapeworm. hopefully that is the boost problem. i guess i'll go to autozone some time this week and get some regular rubber hose for it. i'm actually thinking of re-replacing them all back to rubber. mabye not everything new is improved. as for the sway bar i ran out of daylight so i hope to check that out tomorrow.
thank you klaus and ozark for your four cents collectively.

p.s. as for the timing belt. i plan on doing that along with the serpentine belt sometime soon when this georgia summer breaks. i'm not sure when it was last done- the previous owner was a little on the retentive side and handed me two folders a total 1 1/2 inches thick of every service he had done!!! unfortunately they aren't in any kind of order so i need to pour through them...

Klausc · Post by **Klausc** » 04 Sep 2007, 22:15

oceanman wrote: the previous owner was a little on the retentive side and handed me two folders a total 1 1/2 inches thick of every service he had done!!! unfortunately they aren't in any kind of order so i need to pour through them...

Be thankful that you have documentation. Now, sit down and sort it by date or milage. Then use a highlighter for all of the important stuff.
On my last aquisition, I wrote down on a separate sheet what was done when. I omitted the oil changes.

Have fun,
Klaus

Ivo · Post by **Ivo** » 28 Oct 2007, 18:28

[quote="oceanman"]i

i replaced most of the rubber vacuum hoses with silicone ones. the old rubber hoses were rotting out (i constantly pull dtc's 212 and 153 (o2 sensors) and want to try to fix any vac leaks before i jump on the sensors). i even replaced the elbows for the fpr and egr. when i was replacing them i found the hoses from the TCV to the turbo were miss-routed. the yellow port, which should go to the waste gate, went to the compressor. the red port, which should go to the compressor, ran to the pcv t-pipe on the intake. the waste gate was connected to the line that runs under the spark plug cover to the vacuum tree.

now that everyone is thoroughly confused...
i re-routed them according to the diagram on the hood and it ran great for a couple of days. now when i accelerate, i hear the turbo spinning, but there isn't the big punch anymore. i will double check all of the connections and make sure there are no leaks, but i am wondering if i caused a problem by re-routing the hoses like i did.

Hello everyone,

I am facing simmilar problem with missrouted vacuum lines. I am not sure if they are missrouted and as I do not have the diagram on the hod here is my very question:
The Turbo Presuure regulator (I asuume this is TCV) has three hoses running from it - all the same black color. The top one connects to the visble part on top of the turbo and it is accessible; The midle one is a shor one and it is going to the one of the two niplea of the fresh air intake paie after the MAF ( The one that is the furdest away from the MAF and I suspect it is the wrong one too - may it should go closer to the MAF and the 90 degree hose should be the furtherst away one ?) and the bottom hose is going somewhere deep down to the turbo and it is wery hard to see where exactly. Can someone tell me if it is the correct way or should I have them rerouted and how? Note - the middle hose and and one of the other 2 are baked, when I touch them my hand is turing black! ( I think it was the bottom one) so I assume they need to be changed. Fir now I covered the middle one with an ellectircal tape.
Another question? What are the consequences of haveing missrouted vacuum lines? I expereice hesitation under heavy acceleration (more like pulsation).
Any help will be deeply appreciated. My car is Volvo 850 B5254T engine, 1997 low turbo, manual shifters;
Ivo

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 28 Oct 2007, 18:35

There is a vacuum diagram for my T5 up in the repair database that will help you with your questions. As our cars are only 1 year difference, the vacuum routing should be the same. Here is the link: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... php?t=6941

Ivo · Post by **Ivo** » 31 Oct 2007, 18:47

MadeInJapan wrote:There is a vacuum diagram for my T5 up in the repair database that will help you with your questions. As our cars are only 1 year difference, the vacuum routing should be the same. Here is the link: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... php?t=6941

Thank you for the digram, but I need more info:
1. When you look at the diagram - the left end of the intake manifold shows 2 Vacuum lines - the right one is connected with a doted line runnig up - on my car it is a nipple, connected to a metal black vacuum line with a ruber elbow. First question - where to buy this elbow as mine is cracked and need a replacement ( I think it is 8 mm)? ;

2. Below the above described vacuum line and a bit left of it if you look the same diagram there is a line not shown on the digram and it runs on the left side of the engine (driver side) and as much as I was able to see it goes somewhere close to the turbo. Here is the second question - what is this line for, how wide is the diameter? - it appears thiner then the rest - is it 3.5mm, 4 mm or 6 mm and how long is it?

3. I used for the middle line from the TCV a 1/4 inch fuel line - it fits great. Is it ok to have this kind of rubber hose or should I buy another kind?

After I changed the lines from the TCV - the middle one and the bottom opne and but a bandgge of the third one (electrical tape - 2 layers) - the car has more power, no hesitation, the acceleration is more linear and I expect to see some fuel consumption drop

Cheers to all of you!

Ivo

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 31 Oct 2007, 19:26

Ivo, I have trouble following what you are asking, but when it comes to the elbows, if you are using silicone lines, just ignore the elbows and replace the whole line with silicone. If you still feel you need elbows, www.ipdusa.com sells them. Just look up your car and you'll find the elbows.

Post by **Wagonizer** » 01 Nov 2007, 07:34

Hi,

I replaced my injector seals a while back. You can get a cheap o-ring kit from most auto parts stores.

this post should help:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... hp?t=11820

In the process one of my injectors ended up getting broken at the tip and I had to replace it. I think its generally very apparent if they're leaking. You'll smell gas. In my case the broken one would spray a mist of gas when the system was pressurized. I think with the injectors- If it ain't broke don't fix it.

Good luck with everything
_B