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AW55-50SN woes-easy to repair? Topic is solved

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Repairing a AW55-50SN Transmission in a 2001 V70
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mrbrian200
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Re: AW55-50SN woes-easy to repair?

Post by mrbrian200 »

vtl wrote: 02 Oct 2017, 08:15 Looking at pictures, the new hole is so close to the drain hole, it makes me wonder if the same mod (punching mesh in filter) is possible with the flexible snake tool through the drain?
I'm thinking blast the screen from the bottom with solvent at high flow/medium pressure and a circular fan spray pattern like you get from a garden hose nozzle.. crud falls out the hole with the solvent. Full flush afterward. Did we ever get a definitive answer whether the screen is steel mesh or nylon? I assumed from the picture of the fresh new one it looked like stainless steel, somebody suggested it may be nylon. If it's nylon it would be even less 'sticky' than stainless and would explains why pressurizing the cooler line works as well as it does for that 1-2 km until the crud gets sucked back up. If the drain hole added is right under the pickup in the filter a plastic hose with a couple bends and a small spray nozzle (this could be fabricated with a plug on the end with small holes drilled at different angles) should be able to get right up in there. If there was a way to push fluid or solvent across that next pocket where the body of the filter sits and out the drain hole that would be even better and might make the difference between a 1-shot and having to do it repeatedly. The return line dumps out where down there?

This would be way less labor intensive than pulling the transmission to separate the bell housing.

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Post by vtl »

Looking at the hydraulic scheme (parts of... that I was able to find on the net), internal filter can be punched without consequences. As far, as transmission is fitted with external filter in its regular place - cooler return line.

The only problem is accumulated dirt and particles can enter the pan now, but that can be worked out at some degree by feeding clean enough transmission fluid (or solvent) through the return line. Few washing cycles would do it: drain pan and collect the fluid, push it through paper filter, feed back through VB cover.

Sounds so tempting... :)

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Post by cuhfs »

vtl wrote: 02 Oct 2017, 08:15 Looking at pictures, the new hole is so close to the drain hole, it makes me wonder if the same mod (punching mesh in filter) is possible with the flexible snake tool through the drain?
Review done.
Can not punch filter thru drain hole. Snaking thru that hole will not likely work.
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96 850 Wagon Manual Trans & 98 V70 (gone)
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Post by 01_Nautic_V70 »

I'm positive that is a nylon mesh. The photo makes it look more reflective than it is. I've touched it and it is not stainless steel.
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Post by vtl »

cuhfs wrote: 02 Oct 2017, 11:35 Review done.
Can not punch filter thru drain hole. Snaking thru that hole will not likely work.
Thanks! Drilling the hole then :)

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Post by precopster »

Spraying the filter from up above would remove the crud I'm sure but you have that ridiculously small output port with silicon mouth which goes where??

You would need to know these transmissions intimately or have one stripped on a bench to work this all out.

The reason air works so well is that air pressurises all areas within the transmission however a liquid's flow is harder to control; it will take the path of least resistance every time.

Spraying it from below would only access around 1/3 of the surface area.
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Post by precopster »

Still chugging along

25kms achieved.

I might start to take it out without a trailing wife.
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Post by abscate »

Have you got the inline filter in Mike?

Looking good. I hope this works out. If thing go well today and business isn't crazy, I hope to have clutch and engine back on the subframe today.
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Post by precopster »

Filter isn't far. Don't want it to be a daily driver until it has the Captain Picard seal of approval from Magnefine.

That clutch job sounds like fun. Did you stick with a dual mass flywheel?
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Post by mrbrian200 »

precopster wrote: 02 Oct 2017, 11:44 You would need to know these transmissions intimately or have one stripped on a bench to work this all out.

The reason air works so well is that air pressurises all areas within the transmission however a liquid's flow is harder to control; it will take the path of least resistance every time.

Spraying it from below would only access around 1/3 of the surface area.
Yes you would probably want one on the bench to work out the dimensions -- or at least a filter. With the added drain hole directly below the pickup a semi rigid tube with a single 90 degree bend and a bunch of holes to make high pressure jets facing up toward the filter screen could probably be snaked in and swept back and fourth like a windshield wiper to get most of it, or at least a way lot more than 30%. Without the engine running/pump suction compacting the junk up onto the face of the filter screen I suspect most of the crud would fall away with moderate spray pressure + decent solvent. Another somewhat more complicated idea: an ultrasonic/piezoelectric tranducer inserted up into there through a rubber plug to hold trans fluid in --refill the trans, turn on the piezo transducer to clean the junk off the screen. It would drop off the screen to the plastic filter housing, then just be a matter to flush or suck it out it out with a flexible tube that can snake in there using solvent or trans fluid under pressure.

That still sounds like a lot less trouble and expense than dropping the trans.

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