Keep it or junk it?

[rspi]

I believe these cars are designed to do 500,000 miles. My last transmission began having noticeable issues at about 330,000 miles. I continued to drive the car after a fluid flush and some Lucas transmission treatment until 338,000. I replaced the auto box with a standard.

At 362,775 it blew a valve, #4. So, the way I see it, I got 24,775 out of the car after the transmission replacement. Now, under normal circumstances, how long does it take you to put 24,775 miles on your car. If a transmission replacement cost $1600 and you get 25,000 miles before you have to put anything major into it, would it be worth it? In my opinion, if you have a car that you like, and it cost you less than $400 per month, that should be ok. It will take most people 18 months to put 25,000 miles on their older used car, it took me 4 months. So now, faced with a cylinder head replacement which usually cost about $1,600 at a shop, that would be...$1,600. About right to me. So, yes, I did replace the cylinder head. Was there any hesitation, nope.

Long story short, I'd fix it.

Since the valve repair, I have put about 3,000 miles on it. The cylinder head job cost me about $600. Basically I feel if you get 1,500 miles out of $400 cost to keep the car on the road, it's not that bad.

[Mr. Detail]

Last post from me on this topic. I think I will need Jimmy57 again on this one. I called my local Volvo dealer today and spoke with their parts guy about ordering a new solenoid for the transmission. After quoting me a price of around $160, he proceeded to tell me that there are two (2) solenoids in the transmission and maybe even three (3). I then asked him if the P/N was the same and I think he said yes. So with that said, does that mean I need to buy more than one of these babies? Not sure what to do now other than what Jimmy57 said earlier about maybe a good cleaning will do the trick. What shop would do just a cleaning though?

[erikv11]

Yes there are multiple solenoids, controlling different shifts: 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, and 3rd to 4th. Sounds like #2 is bad but I don't know. Jimmy would!

One way to do the cleaning yourself is to put in fresh trans fluid and drive it some. If the fluid in there is fresh now, have you driven it around? If so, change the fluid again (see below) and drive it some more. Any shop that opens up the trans to access a solenoid, will just change the solenoid they will not clean it.

erikv11, I am not sure what the transmission shop did when they repaired the original problem (blown off trans line).

See my post - what color is the trans fluid now, is it a nice bright pink?

Per cn90's tip sheet, he states "Add 2.5 qts of Mobil 1ATF, check dipstick, it should be at MAX (cold engine).
However, check the ATF dipstick with engine running and after you have shifted through the gears.
Do this after 3 minutes of engine running. See your owners manual!
You may need to add another 0.5 ---> 1 qt!

I looked online and they said my trans holds a total of 8.1 qts. How do you drain out everything?

When you drain the trans pan with the car on a flat surface, you will get exactly 3.5 quarts out. So the advice for 2.5 is probably just to make sure you don't overfill it, or he hasn't done it enough times to know it is 3.5 quarts.

You can completely flush out the entire trans fluid contents with about 10 quarts using the "Gibbons method" where you pull a hose from the transmission cooler, and let the trans pump out the old fluid. Here is an extensive write-up from 10 years ago viewtopic.php?t=8767 but do a google search and you can find dozens of videos. It is pretty easy, just go slow the first time and it will work great.

[mrbrian200]

Before you go through all that try disconnecting the external electrical connectors from the trans, clean both ends of the plugs good with contact cleaner and plug them back in. Weather pack seals generally don't seal quite as well after so many years. A few heat cycles can draw oil and/or cleaners that were used to clean up the mess that likely resulted from the hose leak into the connector where it can cause problems.

[erikv11]

Sure, clean the electrical connectors that's a good idea, but I'd do a full trans fluid flush regardless. Even if the connectors were a problem. It's cheap and not very hard and it gives you a baseline of clean DexIII.

[shiloh51933]

Thanks guys for your responses thus far.
I did come from them mentality that 170k miles was nothing for this model car. I do not have any car payments at present (my wife's car or this one). I do still like the car and have now dropped over $900 in the last month for upkeep. (New radiator and now this broken trans hose fix).

I do not think I want to consider replacing the existing transmission, whether with a used one or a re-built one. I have seen a couple of used Volvo's with less miles than mine for between $1,000 and $1,500 on Craig's list recently. Still not sure what to do.

When the radiator was replaced the ATF oil cooler lines had to be dis-connected, sounds like somebody F-ed up when they re-connected those ATF oil cooler lines.

[FLXC90]

"When the radiator was replaced the ATF oil cooler lines had to be dis-connected, sounds like somebody F-ed up when they re-connected those ATF oil cooler lines.
[/quote]

Like they re-used weak clips and clamps, and maybe old O-rings OP, look and verify the condition of the green clips on the radiator/cooler lines, and the metal clamps around them. Make sure this shop did it right.

Also, the seafoam for transmissions is different from the engine stuff.

Just clean fluid may not remove sediment build up around your solenoids, cleaner may or may not also. Also, it is not uncommon for foreign material to score the bore that the solenoid works in. A shop will want to replace the solenoids because it is less likely to warrant a bring-back.

Due to multiple solenoids, a valve body replacement may become more economical at the point of replacing things, by virtue of one labor cost.

If you can do this in steps that's great. You may invest more in the long run, or you may get off easy after the first steps.

[precopster]

mbrian200s explanation for the most likely failure here is the most plausible. A simple connector fault caused by fluid contamination. I bet that ATF was everywhere when that hose blew off and it creeps into the smallest places.

Definitely do the electrical contact cleaner and then go through the other channels. Solenoids don't burn out due to lack of fluid. Their current draw is low and they are not dependant on the fluid for cooling action. In fact ATF reaches temps of up to 120 degrees C so solenoids are better off exposed to air. Besides they only draw current when car is driving, gears are changing and the solenoids are being commanded by the transmission computer; none of which was happening when the car lost ATF suddenly.

And the suggestion that the valve body burned out through lack of fluid.......well that is also not possible unless the engine were on fire.

[Mr. Detail]

"Before you go through all that try disconnecting the external electrical connectors from the trans, clean both ends of the plugs good with contact cleaner and plug them back in. Weather pack seals generally don't seal quite as well after so many years. A few heat cycles can draw oil and/or cleaners that were used to clean up the mess that likely resulted from the hose leak into the connector where it can cause problems."

Does anyone have a photo or screen shot of where under the hood those electrical connectors are? Or maybe please just describe the location. I have not a clue where to start.

...and yes "precopster" ATF was everywhere under the hood.

[manovlov]

Hy Mr DETAIL,

I've read the entire post, found it interesting. Because this question about keep or junk it is a question I've asked myself recently, that I've concluded by "keep". You speak about solenoids. Do theses pictures may help ?
I may have more informations by MP if needed.
Best regards.
ManovloV