Replacing speakers, a non audiophile needs help!

[LOB]

Upgrading my SC816 with an OEM amplifier 4*50w and a pair of OEM (or rather NOS) front door 2-way speakers (HT-247) replacing the single cone HT-246.
I'm also considering replacing the front dash tweeters (HT-213) with the 2-way OEM dash speakers,HT-221 (new ones 55 EUR/65 USD). Or.. I could go for these aftermarket ones; https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00JEW ... +volvo+850

But the aftermarket ones are 4 ohm and the original are 8 ohm so I guess I'll have to ad a resistor not to destroy the amp!? Correct me if I'm wrong.

What would be your choice? OEM tweeter, OEM-2 way or aftermarket. Has speakers became any better these last 25 years? Yeah I guess so but the OEM where almost top of the line in 1995 and these Mac Audio aftermarket speakers are probably not top of the line in 2017...

Any advice is welcome

[mrbrian200]

Door and dash speakers are both considered full range, 8 ohms wired in parallel to present a 4 ohm load to the receiver or amp. Substituting one of the pairs with 4 ohm speakers results in a 2.6 ohm load to the amplifier. Many aftermarket amps are designed to drive 2 ohm or lower loads but the factory HU or amp probably is not. So yes you do risk damage to the amp unless you utilize a crossover (bass to door speakers, treble to the dash) or a resistor in line with the dash speakers to maintain a 4 ohm load to the amp.

The amp is rated for 50w per channel into 4 ohms. Each speaker set runs at 8 ohms or 1/2 of amp power output (25w per speaker). The resistor in line with the dash speakers will need to be rated for 1/2 of that as it is in a series circuit with the speakers or 12.5w (or greater).

The other way of addressing this would be with a crossover (bass to door speakers, treble to dash). First order would do here, probably at 500 or 750 hz. This approach, however, would effectively disable the tweeters in your upgraded door speakers.

[BEJinFbk]

Put in the amp first and see what you think.
You may be happy with your current speakers.

[mrbrian200]

Has speakers became any better these last 25 years?

There have been some modest advancements in materials and engineering. For example, high flux neodymium magnet structures on car audio small midranges and tweeters where adequately large ferrite magnets simply won't fit would have been harder to find and expensive in 1992. But is now near universally applied to the low end stuff. This generally cleaned up/boosted treble performance said lower grade speakers. Otherwise it's about the same: On the very high end you'll see rigid metal or textile full dome tweeters paired with kevlar/carbon fiber/boutique composite materials for the mids and woofers. On the low end its poly or cellulose for the woof/mids with mylar semi-dome tweeters, utilizing high output neo-based tweeters most 'non audiophiles' would probably say sounds acceptable - or at least modestly better than the speaker(s) built in to the flat TV at home. And noticeably brighter than an OE speaker from 1992.

On a side note: for the low-mid end stuff cellulose/paper is sonically superior to poly as it's physical properties makes for better midrange clarity than poly, particularly in the vocal range. The drawback being that it can literally rip apart in higher power applications and physically degrades in a vehicle environment after about 6-10 years. Poly mids and woofers are noted for higher power handling and longevity at the expense of 'muddy lifeless midrange' with vocals that are more difficult to understand. This is a big consideration if your daily drive frequently turns into a carpool karaoke session, you listen to a lot of talk radio, or are running handsfree phone audio through the stereo system. This is why a lot of OEs use paper (including P2 lower end speakers that came in my S60). The upgrade/premium speakers that I've seen in Volvos in the pick and pulls look like either carbon fiber composites or Kevlar.

[LOB]

Thanks mrbrian for a really good answer. Really helpful! Btw I guess I won't be doing a lot of karaoke in the car. Reading your post I guess I'll keep it simple and go for the OEM speakers withe the correct ohm.
I've also been reading some posts that some became dissatisfied when replacing OEMs and had better sound quality and boost with the old ones. Also, unpacking a 25 year old blue box is absolutely more satisfying than a box for Amazon... (Somewhat irrational I know, but I really like NOS and found this place in the Netherlands who's got a lot of NOS;
www.volvoonderdelen.net)

Will adding more of the same type of speakers (two-way dash speakers) improve the sound quality or just the volume? What was the sound system configuration in 850T5 and 850r? Did these have only tweeters in the dash? Two-way or single in the front doors?

Last question. Given the fact that tweeters might be better now than 25 years ago. Would it work out to use aftermarket external tweeters, the ones you can put on the dash with double sided tape, and connecting these to a second mini amplifier?

OT: today I'll bring all my Tom Petty vinyl LPs and the gramophone down from the attic. RIP Tom Petty...

[RickHaleParker]

"But the aftermarket ones are 4 ohm and the original are 8 ohm so I guess I'll have to ad a resistor not to destroy the amp!? Correct me if I'm wrong."

If you place a 4 ohm resistor in series with a 4 ohm speaker, the resistor with dissipate 1/2 of the power. Get some 8 ohm speakers and enjoy the full power of the amp. For best sound, want the match the continuous watts of the amp with the program rating
of the speaker.

[Clemens]

Finding 8 Ohm speakers in the proper size is as unlikely as finding a unicorn.

[LOB]

[background=][/background]

Finding 8 Ohm speakers in the proper size is as unlikely as finding a unicorn.

MJ
Maybe that's why they don't mention that it is 4 ohm speakers (you have to visit the manufacturer website to find that information).
Not really a "Volvo 850 upgrade kit" then...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00JEW ... +volvo+850

[mrbrian200]

Either the 3 or 4 inch version of these speakers fit in a 3.5" car location so long it will fit depth-wise.
https://www.parts-express.com/cat/midra ... PortalID=1

Theses have good HF/treble output, considered high end/professional/audiophile quality and should sound awesome to most people without the need to add a separate tweeter.
Power handling is in line with the add on Volvo amplifier and should be able to handle it. For higher power you'd want to restrict them to use as a mid-tweet through a crossover or an aftermarket amp with a bass cut function.
There are pdf drawings attached to the product pages for both sizes, compare to a 3.5" car speaker to determine which one (3 or 4" version) will fit.
They are, however, nearly twice the price ($25-30 USD each as opposed to $25 British pounds for a pair).
They're made in Italy, you can probably find a European supplier.

[PeteB]

I see that you are in Sweden, do you know Guru Pro Audio by any chance? Nothing to do with your question.

Speakers are often all over the map as far as meeting the goal of flat frequency
response, OEM is probably nicely engineered and a decent design. If you really want to go
aftermarket pick speakers that are either tested or highly reviewed by people with good ears.
Crutchfield is one of the best as far as telling you what will fit and not selling
low quality junk parts.
https://www.crutchfield.com/m_399/Car-Speakers.html

I would not buy anything from Mac Audio.

I'm not sure what the cutout and frame size is but you might consider speakers here
since there are many 8 ohm units - but also consider the harsh environment:
https://www.parts-express.com/cat/midra ... e-speakers

Go to midrange/fullrange drivers and select the diameter and 8 ohms for your search.

I like the Fountek FE87 that is a buyout driver at about $8 or the Peerless by Tymphany TC9FD18-08 3-1/2"
about $13 each, but check the fit, no idea if either will fit.