P80: Leaky Oil Drain Bolt - Drain Washer/Gasket options?

[theWIFES_S70]

Hey everyone, was just wondering what our options are for a drain bolt gasket.

I know we're supposed to use this:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... v50-v70-xc


But a few years back, my brother went to get his oil changed and it took over ten seconds of a 1/2" impact wrench to remove the bolt. (Yes, I know. Never use an impact... But, when you pick up a used car, you never know what condition the oil drain bolt is in...) I take care of all the family's oil changes, but no matter how much I torque this thing (25ft/lbs+), it still leaks. I really don't want to go too high and break anything. I think the aluminum gasket doesn't "crush" enough to cover the drain hole which is probably warped.

Is there a copper or rubber and copper gasket we can try there? Has anyone ever had a similar problem?

I was searching through the database and I read that one person was able to fix a smilar leak by installing a Volvo drain bolt which was a little longer... I think we'll give that a try, too.

[Georgeandkira]

Oddly enough, the aluminum gasket on our cars gives me a satisfying bite when it yields to its deformation. I've never had a leak in either the trans or oil pan.

If the longer bolt doesn't work you can buy a tube of Permatex Ultra Black (advanced formula) gasket maker. The tube I use also says, "ultimate oil resistance". I use it on a Honda which was overtorqued (stripped) by a quick change oil place. It works like a charm. I lay a bead of the stuff at the base of the bolt's head and run it in.

Also,(FYI) I am installing a Fumoto valve at the next oil change so I never have to deal with it again. I just hope their basic (smallest) valve leaves enough room for the filter.

[theWIFES_S70]

Oddly enough, the aluminum gasket on our cars gives me a satisfying bite when it yields to its deformation. I've never had a leak in either the trans or oil pan.

If the longer bolt doesn't work you can buy a tube of Permatex Ultra Black (advanced formula) gasket maker. The tube I use also says, "ultimate oil resistance". I use it on a Honda which was overtorqued (stripped) by a quick change oil place. It works like a charm. I lay a bead of the stuff at the base of the bolt's head and run it in.

Also,(FYI) I am installing a Fumoto valve at the next oil change so I never have to deal with it again. I just hope their basic (smallest) valve leaves enough room for the filter.

Hi Georgeandkira,
Thanks for that suggestion. We'll definitely give that a try. I've gotten up to 30+ft/lbs and I just don't feel comfortable going that high. I think I have a tube of ultra black, too.

I'll report back.

Sorry I posted in the forum everyone... But I'll be soon enough!

[abscate]

Torque won't solve leakage if it is deformed.

Drain the oil and check the surface for flatness. You might be able to file it flat if its close.

Definitely try a more crushable Copper gasket , gold and Indium will work too, but you have to be a Doctor to afford those - wait - you are a Doctor...

I did try the Volvo plug with Oring on my 1999 and it leaked - I think I still have it if you want to give it a try.

[Georgeandkira]

I have used copper gaskets on the Saabs and a pair of Hondas in the past. They were leak-free but the used ones show VERY LITTLE deformation. In fact, they looked merely scratched.
I'm expressing my doubt on a copper gasket being "more crushable".
Annealing (softening) the copper gaskets (using a heat and quenching technique proposed by a real live metallurgist) didn't change anything.

Also, I must underscore that I am considering the Fumoto valve for my neighbor's 2010 Honda ONLY.
Our oil drains are vulnerable low points and adding a Fumoto valve would be foolish.

Heck, something whacked the pan on my '02 and it had been repaired.

[precopster]

Think outside the circle (pun definitely intended) . Use an oversize crush washer such as M20 and an o ring between the bolt and washer.

As the o ring expands it gets trapped on the edges of the crush washer. Voila; no leaks

[pgill]

Search for Dowty Washer.

That is what I used on my Son's VW.

One thing to check: remove the washer and tighten the bolt by hand, does it fully seat? Its possible that the hole is not threaded all the way thru or that the threads got damaged and that is why you can't compress the washer.

Good Luck

[chrism]

Check the mating surfaces on both the pan and under the bolt head and make sure there are no scrapes or grooves that may be creating an outward path for the oil to leak. Also examine the washer for lateral grooves. (Very light circular grooves around the circumference of the washer can be expected and, to some degree, actually desirable.)

Also try screwing the bolt in by hand, with no washer on it. Stop turning it when it just barely seats against the pan. Then take the thinest feeler gauge you have, like about .0015, and see if you can feel any void area(s) between the underside of the bolt head and the pan surface.

When you screw the bolt in by hand (no washer), does it want to stop turning before the head seats against the pan? Is the washer thicker than any gap that might be there?

If you decide you need to clean up the pan surface in order to get the bolt to seat uniformly around the entire circumference, always make sure you end up sanding the surface in a circular motion. Don't just file or sand it straight back and forth across the hole.

[jimmy57]

Save your oxygen sensors and use them as drain plugs. The washer is crushable and will seal and it is so much fun to put your car on stands and invite the neighbor over to see the wire lead hanging out of oil pan.

Really, spark plugs and oxygen sensors use the same 14mm threads as the most common spark plugs.

[abscate]

Save your oxygen sensors and use them as drain plugs. The washer is crushable and will seal and it is so much fun to put your car on stands and invite the neighbor over to see the wire lead hanging out of oil pan.

Really, spark plugs and oxygen sensors use the same 14mm threads as the most common spark plugs.

You can also start a thread about monitoring the oxygen connect of your oil to determine oil change interval, post it up, sit back, and grab the popcorn.