Quickjack system

[ZionXIX]

Just looked at their website and it appears they don't block the center like other brand units. does not seem to go high enough to pull a transmission from below .

How much height is needed? I might do the manual swap some day.

[cuhfs]

Higher than standard floor jack and standard jack stands. Not sure of exact height. You will have to search forum for specifics

[abscate]

I dropped by P2 manual transmission last month on two standard jack stands just aft of the subframe.

[BeachWagon]

If I had my car up on that jack I would still put jack stands underneath. Can never be TOO safe.

[BeachWagon]

In response to your concern regarding the strength of the pinch welds, I'd personally be reluctant to trust those with the entire weight of the car. Stay with me for a minute...

When you use a trunk jack to lift a car and change a tire, the weight is shifted to the opposite side still touching the ground as the car rises. Note the extra load on the suspension and tires. Only a portion of the vehicle's total weight is ever on that jack point. It is after all dependent upon the weaker metal around it. Whenever I go to lift a car completely off the ground, I ALWAYS go for the more rigid parts of a vehicle. Those pinch-welded jack points were likely ONLY designed with the originally-equipped emergency jack in mind, only considering that portion of weight, for emergencies. I've had factory jack points collapse on me before. Even though I wasn't under the car, it was scary as hell. When your life is at stake and you plan to be UNDER the vehicle, it's best to be skeptical and over-cautious.

The lift in the OP may have some decent use and functionality, and even be pretty damn strong. Can we REALLY be sure of the same when it comes to some pinch-welded sheet metal?

[ZionXIX]

In response to your concern regarding the strength of the pinch welds, I'd personally be reluctant to trust those with the entire weight of the car. Stay with me for a minute...

When you use a trunk jack to lift a car and change a tire, the weight is shifted to the opposite side still touching the ground as the car rises. Note the extra load on the suspension and tires. Only a portion of the vehicle's total weight is ever on that jack point. It is after all dependent upon the weaker metal around it. Whenever I go to lift a car completely off the ground, I ALWAYS go for the more rigid parts of a vehicle. Those pinch-welded jack points were likely ONLY designed with the originally-equipped emergency jack in mind, only considering that portion of weight, for emergencies. I've had factory jack points collapse on me before. Even though I wasn't under the car, it was scary as hell. When your life is at stake and you plan to be UNDER the vehicle, it's best to be skeptical and over-cautious.

The lift in the OP may have some decent use and functionality, and even be pretty damn strong. Can we REALLY be sure of the same when it comes to some pinch-welded sheet metal?

This is exactly the point I was inquiring about. It appeared to me that the only pinch weld jacking points were for the tire jack and those are slight off center of the pinch welds. I have a CRV that came with a scissors jack for spare tire changes and it has a groove built into the top that fits nicely over a reinforced pinch weld. It would be nice if a tad bit more thought had been put into the strength of those pinch welds. We just need to go back to body on frame vehicles as a society..... I also hate using my jack stands because they are the "claw" "U" shaped type that never seem to be happy where I place them. I'm concerned they may slide and shift due such little surface area in contact with the car.

[JimBee]

I use short pieces of timber cribbing, such as 3 x 6, 2 x 6 and 6 x 10s. I don't own and won't ever use jack stands. With the car resting on those at right angles to the length of the car, I can jerk it around from underneath without worrying.

I use an aluminum Harbor Freight "racing" floor jack positioned under the subframe-to-body gussets, or the rear end link mounts for jacking. I usually leave the jack in place with tension on the jack point, but after I've lowered the body to contact the cribbing stacks placed near the jack along the unibody rails. Those rails are pretty strong. Mine are dented aft of the front gussets where a jack or hoist pads had been used (before me). They're dented but not crushed. I would not use them for jacking, though.

[Warmfuzzies]

Any update on this?

Has anyone ever tried a QJ on this?

[MoVolvos]

*
$999 When It's On Sale @ Costco - Unpacked in the garage for 3 weeks now. Building shelves and cleaning it so I can close the doors and work on it in the evening. Probably another 3 weeks till I can get it assembled and test it.
https://www.costco.com/QuickJack-5%2c00 ... 60313.html

Home Depot still has the 7,000 lb unit for sale for $1,299.00 - Super Price and would have prefer this but Costco's warranty policy is so friendly for defects or poor quality goods that I opted for the 5,000 lb unit.
https://www.homedepot.com/s/quick%2520jack?NCNI-5

Check out their test.


Eric The Car Guy

[Warmfuzzies]

I bought one too and tested it on my pinch weld cars (Audi Mk1 TT) but I’m a bit nervous using the pinch welds on the 850.

I need to replace a transmission so I can’t use the standard subframe braces as I’ll need access to those bolts.

Please do share where you place yours if you end up beating me to it.

Thanks!