Greetings. The money pit is seeking attention, again. Replaced control arms and complete strut assemblies. Still getting clunk from the front end. More so from passenger side , but do get it on the driver side also. This noise is just like it was before I did work on the car.
It sounds like someone taking a hammer and wacking a metal plate. No rattle, just single clunk. As if something moved from one position to another , and does not make clunk until I turn into a parking place or driveway again.
Have anyone tried these or something similar. https://screenshots.firefox.com/TtL2ZvG ... ipdusa.com.
Thoughts and opinions respected.
Front end clunk... Anyone tried these ?
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clifford06
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clifford06
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Sorry guys , these are subframe inserts that are supposed to be placed into the gaps in the subframe mounts to firm them up and avoid having to replace mounts.
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scot850
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I'm assuming you have checked the end-links as part of the strut replacement, and possibly the anti-sway bar mounts?
What about engine mounts? In order of likelihood: Upper torque mount, crankshaft pulley mount and then lower torque mount.
I have just spent a fortune on my 2000 R at the dealer trying to stop a groaning, not a clunk. The groaning was cased by the RH rear front sub-frame bush being loose in the sub-frame.
Neil.
What about engine mounts? In order of likelihood: Upper torque mount, crankshaft pulley mount and then lower torque mount.
I have just spent a fortune on my 2000 R at the dealer trying to stop a groaning, not a clunk. The groaning was cased by the RH rear front sub-frame bush being loose in the sub-frame.
Neil.
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- volare
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...Imma just settle in here. The Falcon has a brutal clunk emanating from the pass.side front that I've rationalized away as "suspension needs doing at some point"...
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clifford06
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I'll check as suggested. Was just hoping I didn't have to get to deep back into this PITA car. Its money appetite is causing it to move farther down the priority chain of life.
- mrbrian200
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Does the position of the steering wheel or front end handling change from clunk to clunk?
Those subframe bush inserts address play that can develop where the subframe doesn't stay put laterally. When the rubber inside subframe mounts get soft the vehicle will wander around the road instead of traveling in a straight line as well as become susceptible to tramlining on a grooved surface. Now there have been cases where the mounts don't stay planted in the subframe which allows the subframe to slide vertically and contact the body of the car which will make a clunk. Those inserts do not address that specific condition: they strictly control lateral movement. To check for vertical movement that would produce a clunk, stuff a rubber spacer (such as a cutout from a used tire sidewall) in the gap between the subframe and the body of the car on the side you are troubleshooting. If the clunk goes away or is dramatically quieter this is your problem. I do not recommend installing the large rubber o-ring (TSB 130664) as in my experience it transfers a lot of tire/road noise into the passenger compartment in the footwell area. It's more work but worth the effort to replace the subframe mounts to address this condition. Volvo has another TSB recommending setting new subframe mounts on certain models with a specific epoxy while installing them to help keep them planted in the subframe. I would support this idea.
Those subframe bush inserts address play that can develop where the subframe doesn't stay put laterally. When the rubber inside subframe mounts get soft the vehicle will wander around the road instead of traveling in a straight line as well as become susceptible to tramlining on a grooved surface. Now there have been cases where the mounts don't stay planted in the subframe which allows the subframe to slide vertically and contact the body of the car which will make a clunk. Those inserts do not address that specific condition: they strictly control lateral movement. To check for vertical movement that would produce a clunk, stuff a rubber spacer (such as a cutout from a used tire sidewall) in the gap between the subframe and the body of the car on the side you are troubleshooting. If the clunk goes away or is dramatically quieter this is your problem. I do not recommend installing the large rubber o-ring (TSB 130664) as in my experience it transfers a lot of tire/road noise into the passenger compartment in the footwell area. It's more work but worth the effort to replace the subframe mounts to address this condition. Volvo has another TSB recommending setting new subframe mounts on certain models with a specific epoxy while installing them to help keep them planted in the subframe. I would support this idea.
- erikv11
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Make sure the sway bar end links are tight. Very tight. Very very tight. And check the engine3 mount, sway bar bushings as suggested.
Problems with the subframe bushings are possible, but they are very rare while the other things mentioned are very common.
Problems with the subframe bushings are possible, but they are very rare while the other things mentioned are very common.
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'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
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clifford06
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Greetings. I have to say that mrbrian200 hit on a major issue I've had with this car. It does have a wandering ride and "following road grooves " type of feel . Never thought sub mounts could be a cause. My mounts are weathered and cracked. Doing the inserts would save few bucks. Any ideas of what installation of mounts might run ? Sway bar bushing probably due for replacement.
- bmdubya1198
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OP- your noise is most likely the subframe bushings.
My subframe bushings are in bad shape, the front end clunks SO bad when I'm turning tightly. The front end also wanders a little bit when I'm doing more than like 70 mph. I also notice when I hit close to lock in the steering wheel, it almost feels like it overcomes the "lock" and turn a little bit more, which feels like it raises the front end and it gets very bouncy. I think my solution here is going to be upgrading to delrin subframe bushings from Kaplhenke Racing (https://www.kaplhenke.com/collections/8 ... e-bushings). Cost is about the same as new Volvo bushings and iPd inserts, and handling is supposed to be much better.
The question now is when I feel like tackling this job...
My subframe bushings are in bad shape, the front end clunks SO bad when I'm turning tightly. The front end also wanders a little bit when I'm doing more than like 70 mph. I also notice when I hit close to lock in the steering wheel, it almost feels like it overcomes the "lock" and turn a little bit more, which feels like it raises the front end and it gets very bouncy. I think my solution here is going to be upgrading to delrin subframe bushings from Kaplhenke Racing (https://www.kaplhenke.com/collections/8 ... e-bushings). Cost is about the same as new Volvo bushings and iPd inserts, and handling is supposed to be much better.
The question now is when I feel like tackling this job...
That's been my position on this!volare wrote:...Imma just settle in here. The Falcon has a brutal clunk emanating from the pass.side front that I've rationalized away as "suspension needs doing at some point"...
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scot850
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In Canadian $$'s it cost me about $1100 (about $800 US) at the dealer including the 4 x Volvo sub-frame mounts and an alignment. I do get a reduced rate at the dealer and hourly rate here is about $160/hr CDN.
Neil.
Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold
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