Need to replace Torque Converter Lockup Solenoid

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 15 Sep 2007, 18:28

If it's out of adjustment it certainly would not know exactly which gear it's in and may have some shifting errors. It would be worth another look....the adjustment is in the Bay13 write-up, if I recall.

phoenix_iii · Post by **phoenix_iii** » 16 Sep 2007, 10:24

MIJ, I do not believe the original was defective, or came out of adjustment on its own (can that even happen?) SL (Torque Converter Lockup Solenoid) is common enough of an issue, and my mechanic said as soon as he drove it that's what he believed it was...

Can anyone provide a part # for SL (and S1 and S2 while I'm at it?) or a guestimate of cost? How about install time?

Much appreciated, I've already email fcpgroton but no reply over the weekend

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 16 Sep 2007, 20:00

I show S-1 and S-2 to be the same part number 6843783. S-L is 6843784.

I googled them and found a 2004 thread on VSP that indicates that they are $98.00 each. 2007 price might be a tad more.

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/lofivers ... t3485.html

...Lee

phoenix_iii · Post by **phoenix_iii** » 16 Sep 2007, 20:15

Ozark. you rock. Thank you. I found that thread and the original (with colors/working hyperlinks) as well..

Should I just replace SL, S1 and S2 all at the same time? Also, and most importantly, can I get some tips/hints on how to install? Apparently it can be done without dropping the subframe? I have access to a lift for a day as well.

Would love love love to be able to do it myself, as it should not require any special calibration or anything. I could take pics along the way and make a nice walkthrough if I get good enough installation text tips! I'll make it worth while to the community, promise!

=)

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 16 Sep 2007, 20:57

My knowledge (knock on wood) of automatic transmissions is quite limited. I bought one a couple of weeks ago but to be honest I have not paid particular attention to the transmission since we have been dealing with some of the other basic Stage 0 stuff since it shifts just fine.

What you need to do is remove the oil pan. The VADIS procedure calls for dropping the subframe but it sure looks to me like the pan can be removed without doing that. Unlike most transmissions the pan is on the front of the transmission rather than the bottom. My guess is that if you pull the battery and the battery tray (Radio Code!) you can get to the upper bolts and then the lower bolts from under the car it will come off.

Once off it is a matter of unbolting and bolting the solenoids. With the subframe out they are right in front of you, with the subframe in I think it will be a tad trickier but it looks to me like it can be done without a lot of grief.

The gasket between the pan and the transmission is a liquid gasket that looks a lot like RTV. The sealer is Volvo P/N 11611409-6. They obviously want both surfaces clean (alcohol) and when re-sealing and they make a big deal about making a loop with the sealant around each screw hole. They only show applying the sealant to the pan.

Should you change all of them? I'm sure they are not all bad but this looks labor intensive and $300ish dollars to fix a transmission is a bargain so my gut would say yes - My wallet and my wife might argue with me though.

Before you drop the big bucks I would be inclined to clean all of the grounds (Battery, battery cables and ground straps

phoenix_iii · Post by **phoenix_iii** » 17 Sep 2007, 12:25

I will take the car back from the mechanic and do all the grounds I can find. Are these illustrated well in the Haynes, or perhaps we have a few pics online?

I ordered SL, S1, and S2...

I like the approach of removing the oil pan and battery+tray... you would think Volvo would make that the standard way vs. 4hrs for the subframe...

I like that... a lot... especially with the lift access I can have... and if I go to north NJ there is a parts cleaner I can use too... =)

Then again, electrical! I should review all the grounds (would like pic or to know if I buy a Haynes it will outline them, usually it doesn't explicitly have a page showing all at once... though I will buy one anyway, wth)... I can always send the Solenoids back... they set me back a bit (

SL $145
S1 and S2 $75 each.
FCPGroton.

cyclmck · Post by **cyclmck** » 17 Sep 2007, 20:41

There is not very much clearance between the pan and the subframe, when you unbolt the pan you will have to move it out 2" or 3 " to clear the valve body too slide it out. If it is possible to do without removing the subframe you will definitely have to raise the transmission up a few inches.

phoenix_iii · Post by **phoenix_iii** » 25 Sep 2007, 14:12

Finally saw my car getting worked on at the mechanics... looks like he had the special volvo engine lift it off the motor mounts tool. Oh boy. =)
Just getting ready for 'I replaced all three solenoids and you still have the problem' and I pay out the nose and then go to Volvo and they say bad trans ground... =D

=)

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 25 Sep 2007, 15:56

Just getting ready for 'I replaced all three solenoids and you still have the problem'

I'm just thinking of that Royal Bank of Scotland ad where they are on stuck on the tram. I think the dorky guys says, "Positive thoughts lead to a positive outcome."

Hopefully it works out for you.

Positive Thoughts!

...Lee

phoenix_iii · Post by **phoenix_iii** » 25 Sep 2007, 17:20

Ozark Lee wrote:
Just getting ready for 'I replaced all three solenoids and you still have the problem'
I'm just thinking of that Royal Bank of Scotland ad where they are on stuck on the tram. I think the dorky guys says, "Positive thoughts lead to a positive outcome."

Hopefully it works out for you.

Positive Thoughts!

...Lee

Thanks Lee, you've been quite helpful. Worst case scenario I have a new PNP, three new solenoids, and I buy a rebuilt trans and have it put in =(. Heh, hope it comes back great, though I think I want to do a drain and fill of the fluid soon, although two people said it was good.