2000 V70R Click/clunk

[Chewie688i]

Usual suspects are:

1) Front prop-shaft joint. They fry and fail with age sitting beside the cat. Colorado Drive-shaft are the goto people. Remove the shaft and see if the noise goes away.
2) Prop-shaft center bearing rubber support failure. Removing shaft will also fix this.
3) At the rear end of the prop-shaft there is a unit called the viscous coupling unit. It is a friction clutch for the AWD. Sitting will cause this to fail as the silicon fluid sits at one point and sets without use. It will strip the clutches.
4) The casing for the VC has a bush at the front and that can fail causing a knocking.
5) The nose bearing of the VC can fail.
6) Then there are the front CV axles. But I think the issue is more likely the prop-shaft or VC unit.

If removing the prop-shaft (6 x 6mm (?) bolts either end (mark the prop-shaft flanges and where the bolts come out of as it is balanced to the units either end and even those bolts can be different lengths for balancing purposes). Then remove the 2 or 4 bolts for the center mount and remove. The later props can be a little reluctant to release from the flanges so be careful.

Neil.

Neil, looking at the instructions above, removing the prop-shaft seems pretty straight forward. Any other issues when removing it? I think I'll be attempting it this weekend. I don't have any jack stands, only ramps. Think I'll still be able to accomplish? Once its out, do I just contact Colorado drive shaft and tell them what I need?

[Chewie688i]

Also, are there part numbers associated with the other components? Front CV joint, center bearing support, bushing for the VC? Thanks again. I figure if I'm under there I might as well price out everything and replace it all if needed.

[abscate]

The Volvo parts Lisle website has good exploded diagrams to get the part numbers, and good prices too.

[scot850]

The website below offers on ebay the front joint. As to the quality of the parts I can't advise as I have not used them. However, they do give a good guide on how to pick the correct front bearing unit. Volvo lists 2 on their system but does not clarify which is which. They have part #'s 30651204 and 31216176.

Problem with their prop-shafts is they changed each year, you have 97-98 (850 AWD and V/S/V70XC) and then changed for 99 and then again for 2000 with some unclear change points. Best thing to do is call a dealer parts department with your Vin# to get the right part number. Volvo part is in the region of $300 US or so.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-Drivesha ... 2294546694

I'm not sure if you can do this with ramps. You can do the front by chocking the wheels and putting the trans in Neutral using the override button. This will allow you to rotate the shaft to access the 6 bolts. I will warn you now!!

1) Make clear marks to show where the angle gear flange is in relation to a matching point on the drive shaft. Although, replacing the bearing may negate this concern as there may not be a way of keeping the points aligned. But try if you can. Also make sure you mark the location of each bolt removed as they can vary in length for balancing purposes. I use a piece of card with 6 holes in it in a circle and a reference point relative to the axle.

2) Make sure you have a very good quality 6 point/Hex socket (I use a 3/8" drive and a wobbly shaft to try to keep it square in the bolt head). Use plenty of PB Blaster on the blots and give each bolt a good whack with the socket in place to shock it loose. There may be a bolt that the head may round in. I have used a good quality set of Vice Grips and have managed to loosen and remove the bolt. Slow work but can be done.

3) You may think the front bearing is welded into the flange but some persuasion and tapping with a hammer will help it loosen and you may have to pry it out carefully.

4) The hardest thing to do is stop the shaft rotating while you are trying to loosen the bolts. I use a long pry bar with the handle wedged to the ground and the pointed end wedged between 2 of the bolts. Volvo has a special tool for this but it is expensive. I bought one for my 98 V70XC, and then found it does not work for the 2000 as the hole pitch is different as it the flange diameter.
I have not tried an impact driver for fear off damaging the bolt heads.

Once the front is loose, if you only have 2 ramps the problem comes with the rear. I use a wide top pair of axle stands. If you are careful. you can jack the rear of the car under the differential cage (this is a legit jacking point) and then support the rear of the car on axle stands under the 2 cylinder jack points just forward of the rear wheels.

Hope this helps.

Neil.

[FLXC90]

As the noise is noticed on deceleration or reversing, I would also look at the upper torque arm, and the lower buckle. sounds like things get a little loose and bind the forward cv on the prop shaft.

Thinking a little further; if torsion is involved, it may be binding at the center support as well. Visually inspect it for wear on the lower side of the bearing, front and rear, and maybe grab the shaft and check for radial play there.

The connector sleeve runs side to side, so that wouldn't be my first suspicion.

[Chewie688i]

I threw in the towel and took it to a shop here in CT. I'll keep you posted on the findings and the price. Between the snow and freezing rain, I just couldn't sit under the car and freeze to death.

[abscate]

The Volvo parts Lisle website has good exploded diagrams to get the part numbers, and good prices too.

The part finder on the like website has VIN entry on the top line so that might help with chassis and mid year part number changes.

[scot850]

I hear you on this with the weather this time of year I would do the same if I didn't have a heated garage option. Worst case get them to just pull the prop-shaft to see if the issue goes away.

I know a guy that bought a Laser Blue 00 V70R locally that had not been properly maintained by an older couple. Only had 75,000 miles on it. As soon as he started using it the trans failed, then he had further issues and was into it for $6500 within months. Eventually he got rid of it and it now is 300km north of me with a rod knocking and about 100,000 miles on it. Maintenance is the key on these and regular fluid changes are top of the list!

Good Luck!

Neil.

[Chewie688i]

Update: prop shaft center bearing was the offender. The actual bracket that holds it was rusted through. Bottom line, I now have a FWD v70r

[scot850]

Well you now know what it is at least and you can now decide if you are fine with it as it is or you want the AWD back.

As mentioned before these are the guys to talk to if you want to fix the prop-shaft. Just don't throw the old unit away!

http://coloradodriveshaft.com/volvo.htm

Neil.