98 V70 non turbo Oil Pump Replacement - need some help

[98v70dad]

I've ordered a new oil pump for my 98 V70 due to the low oil pressure incident I had about three weeks ago. I've looked around and have found very little in the way of instructions on how to do this. Any help pointing me in the right direction would be appreciated.

I'm also a little concerned about how to keep the alignment of the timing. Again, any help or instructions would really help me out. My goal for next week is to get the old pump pulled off the car. The new pump is supposed to be delivered on Saturday.

[abscate]

I'll see if Alldata gives guidance. Don't sweat the timing, on a 98 it is not hard.

[erikv11]

Agreed, you will be K with the timing.

If you want to you can lock the crank before trying to remove the harmonic balancer. First put the crank on the timing mark. Then, there is a locking pin hole in the block behind the starter (yes it would have to be removed, perhaps the intake manifold too ...), you insert something (there is a special Volvo tool to insert but a fat allen wrench works) into the hole and against the crankshaft. An allen wrench will remove the plug. Then the crank doesn't rotate when you go at it with an impact etc, and you have a good sense how to put it all back together again.

[cn90]

- If you don't want to mess w the starter motor etc., then some people do this trick...
* Leave the TB in place.
* Spray WD40 or PB Blaster on the 30-mm nut.
* Then impact wrench to undo the nut.
* Then undo the TB etc.

- The oil pump itself, there is a youtube video from the UK Volvo diesel engine.

[98v70dad]

Agreed, you will be K with the timing.

If you want to you can lock the crank before trying to remove the harmonic balancer. First put the crank on the timing mark. Then, there is a locking pin hole in the block behind the starter (yes it would have to be removed, perhaps the intake manifold too ...), you insert something (there is a special Volvo tool to insert but a fat allen wrench works) into the hole and against the crankshaft. An allen wrench will remove the plug. Then the crank doesn't rotate when you go at it with an impact etc, and you have a good sense how to put it all back together again.

Thanks. I want to do it the easiest way possible. I've done a timing belt replacement. I can make sure it's lined up just like the TB replacement. When I did the TB I wasn't that impressed with the timing marks and was very carefull not to get it out of sync.

[abscate]

- If you don't want to mess w the starter motor etc., then some people do this trick...
* Leave the TB in place.
* Spray WD40 or PB Blaster on the 30-mm nut.
* Then impact wrench to undo the nut.
* Then undo the TB etc.

- The oil pump itself, there is a youtube video from the UK Volvo diesel engine.

Exactly how I did my 99 when I did the CVVT hub replacement - Let me know if you want to borrow my 30mm although a Cobalt socket is probably the same as shipping.

[98v70dad]

- If you don't want to mess w the starter motor etc., then some people do this trick...
* Leave the TB in place.
* Spray WD40 or PB Blaster on the 30-mm nut.
* Then impact wrench to undo the nut.
* Then undo the TB etc.

- The oil pump itself, there is a youtube video from the UK Volvo diesel engine.

Thanks. That's what I had in mind before asking. That said it seems that you still have to line up all the marks when done - I recall that it's a little harder than it sounds because the marks are a bit crude.

My impact wrench is a HF POS ... It worked great for 2 uses. Now it just makes impressive noises. Last time I used it on a front wheel nut it banged away for twenty minutes and then I got the nut off using a cheater (with great effort). The impact wrench is slated for the trash in my new year garage clean up. Anything I've ever bought from HF that has a cord has lasted 2 uses or less. In the future I'm sticking to sockets, wrenches and screwdrivers from them.

I may need to buy a socket of the right size. I doubt I've got one to fit the crank nut...

I believe I found the YouTube video but didn't watch it to the end ... It seemed to ramble - maybe we are talking about two different ones. I'll check.

[RickHaleParker]

See the attached file for Oil pump and Front Crankcase seal replacement.

Midyear change on the timing belt tensioner. You may have the old hydraulic tensioner or the newer mechanical tensioner.

[jimmy57]

I'm going to be a downer here. Oil pumps are rarely what causes low oil pressure. On that engine O ring in sump to lower block is the more likely culprit and the pickup tube o ring inside oil pan. Tell us more about the low oil pressure incident.
Another thing: the crankshaft has a square shouldered seal surface. The seal can easily be damaged sliding over the front of that surface. You can use a sleeve fashioned out of thin plastic as a guide or you can use a paper clip and walk around seal to get the lip over that edge and then drive seal into pump body.

[98v70dad]

See the attached file for Oil pump and Front Crankcase seal replacement.

Midyear change on the timing belt tensioner. You may have the old hydraulic tensioner or the newer mechanical tensioner.

Thanks - I looked for a thread that gave instructions but couldn't find anything. I did the timing belt about 50,000 miles ago. Everything that touches the belt that could be replaced was replaced - all OE parts.