98 V70 non turbo Oil Pump Replacement - need some help

[abscate]

The only hint I recall at oilpump removal difficulty is the reference to hitting the lugs with a split edge chisel in the Volvo procedure

Yeah, whatever that means - I read the procedure. I pried it out with a crow bar and several well placed curse words. There's no room on or around those lugs to do anything with a chisel except rotate the oil pump back and forth about 20 degrees. The lugs have holes in them and I put a bolt through the holes and used it to improve the prying action with the crow bar.

I think they want you to chisel between lugs and engine block

[wizechatmgr]

Could always get the 2nd engine anyways, R&R everything on it and then put her in. Really comes down to how much time you're able and willing to spend.

Spent some time a couple hours south of you many many moons ago - Kings Bay & St. Mary's. Other than sea gulls, gnats and green peace, there wasn't much to do or see. The shrimp festival wasn't so bad.

I hear you about the neck - had a cervical sprain in mine at one point. Putting the MC helmet on was literal hell - sleeping and staying awake were out of the question. Painkillers didn't even touch it.

If you can get a better picture it may assist - now that everything is cleaned up. Sounds like the oil pan's mounting area for the filter is toast. A main bearing can leak without any oil spilling out onto the ground. I think you're thinking a main seal - which would definitely make a mess in varying amounts.

[98v70dad]

The only hint I recall at oilpump removal difficulty is the reference to hitting the lugs with a split edge chisel in the Volvo procedure

Yeah, whatever that means - I read the procedure. I pried it out with a crow bar and several well placed curse words. There's no room on or around those lugs to do anything with a chisel except rotate the oil pump back and forth about 20 degrees. The lugs have holes in them and I put a bolt through the holes and used it to improve the prying action with the crow bar.

I think they want you to chisel between lugs and engine block

No room for that. I started with my largest flat bladed screw driver and worked down to almost the smallest. The most effective tool was a crowbar. Once I moved it a bit I could improve the prying action with the bolt through the hole in the lug. Finally a wide bladed screw driver could be twisted (rotated) to do some additional prying. There is barely enough room for a small screwdriver. The chisel instruction was obviously written by someone who never tried to actually do the procedure....its laughable - really!

[cn90]

I am thinking the following sequence of events....

- Possibly the #1 con rod bearing bolts came loose ---> punching a hole in the round oil housing unit ---> piston #1 is now stuck at TDC, valves now open and bent/damaged (thus the misfire code #1) ---> round oil housing unit (located just below the #1 con rod) now has a hole in it ---> oil pump now pumps oil out of that hole instead of the oil filter ---> low oil pressure light is ON in the dash.

- You can pull the pan for academic purpose (inquiring mind wants to know!), but I am afraid you have 2 separate problems: the bent valves on the top and the bottom end issues, whatever it is.

- The more I think about this issue, the more I think junk yard is a good option, at least you get some $400-$500 for it.
Remove the good old parts and sell them on ebay before sending the car to jy.

- Look into 2005-2006 2.5T cars with < 100K miles, you can buy those for $5K or so. I have a 2005 XC90 2.5T, bought at 80K, now at 110K, and we love it...

[98v70dad]

Could always get the 2nd engine anyways, R&R everything on it and then put her in. Really comes down to how much time you're able and willing to spend.

Spent some time a couple hours south of you many many moons ago - Kings Bay & St. Mary's. Other than sea gulls, gnats and green peace, there wasn't much to do or see. The shrimp festival wasn't so bad.

I hear you about the neck - had a cervical sprain in mine at one point. Putting the MC helmet on was literal hell - sleeping and staying awake were out of the question. Painkillers didn't even touch it.

If you can get a better picture it may assist - now that everything is cleaned up. Sounds like the oil pan's mounting area for the filter is toast. A main bearing can leak without any oil spilling out onto the ground. I think you're thinking a main seal - which would definitely make a mess in varying amounts.

I'm not originally from Georgia but I've been to St. Mary's more than once. There's an old Dravo factory there and also a submarine base on the coast. Atlanta has nice weather - St. Mary's is down in the hellish hot weather/bug zone.

The volvo is a spare car so I don't know how much effort I want to put into fixing it. It gets the best gas mileage of any of my vehicles and I drive about 100 miles each day, so I have some motivation to fix it but not a lot. Its a beater - being from Albany I know you know what that means. Actually it only looks like a beater - mechanically I've taken really good care of it. Being a southern car it has no rust - nada.

The oil filter mounting surface is fine. Its the oil pan right around the oil outlet hole that looks like someone hit it hard with a hammer. There's obviously more wrong than a hole in the pan. Getting the pan off seems like a real chore since its sealed up with an anaerobic sealant - literally glued on...

[98v70dad]

I am thinking the following sequence of events....

- Possibly the #1 con rod bearing bolts came loose ---> punching a hole in the round oil housing unit ---> piston #1 is now stuck at TDC, valves now open and bent/damaged (thus the misfire code #1) ---> round oil housing unit (located just below the #1 con rod) now has a hole in it ---> oil pump now pumps oil out of that hole instead of the oil filter ---> low oil pressure light is ON in the dash.

- You can pull the pan for academic purpose (inquiring mind wants to know!), but I am afraid you have 2 separate problems: the bent valves on the top and the bottom end issues, whatever it is.

- The more I think about this issue, the more I think junk yard is a good option, at least you get some $400-$500 for it.
Remove the good old parts and sell them on ebay before sending the car to jy.

- Look into 2005-2006 2.5T cars with < 100K miles, you can buy those for $5K or so. I have a 2005 XC90 2.5T, bought at 80K, now at 110K, and we love it...

The hole at filter housing was just made bigger - its not a new hole - just a bigger hole where the original slot shaped hole was. I will post a picture tomorrow. What exactly is worth pulling and selling on ebay? I probably have 30 items that I've replaced within the last 5 years with OE parts.

I have a love/hate relationship with the volvo. I paid 1500 for it 10 years ago with only 98 K miles. Its been a cheap car but has taken up all of my free time for the last 10 years. I don't want another one.

[RickHaleParker]

I was shocked by this because I was sure that was the problem.....
.... Me too!

Based on what you reported, I had assumed you did a complete visual inspection, figured it was a safe bet. Amazing what one piece of missing information can do but, we are only human, Errare humanum est, sed in errare perseverare diabolicum. I worked in Avionics for 20 years ... I know.

If it gets to the point you decide to to a engine swap. There is a 1998 V70 at LKQ in Fayetteville, GA. The air bags are deployed but I cannot see any major body damage in the pictures. Might be a good donor car.

LKQ has flat prices regardless of year, make and model, makes it a hell of a deal for Premium Cars cars like Volvo, BMW, Porsche ... ect.

LKQ Fayetteville, GA: Engine Package Fuel Injected, Price $275.82, Core $75.00, Warranty $0.00, Extended Warranty $82.75
https://www.lkqpickyourpart.com/locatio ... ville-229/

There is a block only option for $150, Knowing LKQ, block only may very well include the lower end and pistons. You would need to ask about their engine packages for clarification. There is some variation in local LKQ policies.

[wizechatmgr]

Yes - we used to have an okay golf course on base & watered with sulphur water - it gave mornings a particular smell. And then there is the all-natural paint stripper known as love bugs... Hellishly warm does describe it well. Not too much violent crime as it is just too hot...

The pan shouldn't be that hard to get off - compared to the oil pump. A hammer should knock her loose after the bolts are out. I get not wanting to bother.

Beaters? Yup!

[RickHaleParker]

I'm from the mythical flat lands of Kansas, it reality Kansas is not flat. If my interpretation of "Beater" if correct. of is correct, A Beater is a sacrificial vehicle used to preserve a more presence vehicle.

Come on, I invite intercultural exchange.

[abscate]

My 1999 beater is still running me 300-500 mile biz trips paying me 55 cents per mile in comfort, verve, elan, and panache. I'm going to retire it after last college, in 2 years though