I am Back and Need Help

equinutok · Post by **equinutok** » 20 Sep 2007, 09:33

Ok here goes. I found someone I can trust for the clutch on the wagon. He is less priced as well as told me to bring the parts the Volvo people recomended! That is a good thing. He also recomended I used the synthetics for this car all the way to the clutch. Here is a small list of questions.
1. The clutch kit is a Sach's will that be fine?
2. Do I have to get the code of the clutch that is in this car before we order another one? This is a 97' 850 Wagon base model. Non Turbo
3. What is the best fluid to put back in this wagon? He mentioned Castrol.
I have seen previous threads regarding all of this but there was a lot of conflict on what is best and the safest. I am excited about getting this clutch and want it done right.

chuckcintron · Post by **chuckcintron** » 20 Sep 2007, 14:35

equinutok wrote: 1. The clutch kit is a Sach's will that be fine?
2. Do I have to get the code of the clutch that is in this car before we order another one? This is a 97' 850 Wagon base model. Non Turbo
3. What is the best fluid to put back in this wagon? He mentioned Castrol.

1. Sachs is usually = OEM, so should be fine. I'd change the throw-out bearing and pilot bushing as well...just in case your kit does not include those.

2. Never heard of that before.

3. Volvo recommends "Volvo synthetic transmission oil" You only need a couple of quarts, so I'd not worry about the religious debates over various brands of oil, and just get the stuff from the dealer.

-Chuck

P.S. just a suggestion, but more descriptive titles for your new subject postings would be helpful. For example, instead of "I need help", something like "97 850 Clutch / Tranny oil recommendation"

You'll get more folks to take a look, that way.

Post by **JRL** » 20 Sep 2007, 17:09

Besides the above suggestions on the way you post, I'm not sure if 97's had different clutch packages, 98's DO!
SO it would not hurt to get them via your VIN, that way you should get the correct slutch.
Make sure that your replace EVERYTHING, clutch, pressure plpate and throwout bearing.
It also would not hurt and may be recommended by this mechanic (if he knows what he's doing) to resurface the flywheel, it may be burnt and out of spec and he last thing you want to do is to spend over a grand and it still be bad

equinutok · Post by **equinutok** » 20 Sep 2007, 21:52

The kit includes clutch disc, pressure plate, and release bearing. My main concern at this point is the fluid to put back . The man is pretty smart when it comes to imports and does transmissions most of the time. I have seen a local Volvo there having things done. I do not know the owner to get an opinion. In all honesty if I had the place to put this clutch in at home we would have already done it. Considering its a non turbo and not a AWD its not to bad under there . The former owner sent me this link for the parts. It is the place I guess he ordered most of his parts from.
http://www.eeuroparts.com/productdetail ... &code=4361.
The price appears to be more than fair and I was considering ordering a couple of other things.
I am going to look at a set of wheels tomorrow and was told the tires on them are very good? Makes me go humm...these came off a 960 and one rim has some scratches on it. If these do not work out tomorrow I will keep the 15 inch rims and replace a couple of caps . It needs tires soon. Either way if I stay with the 15's it needs tires and it will give me more time to shop around for rims .
Sorry about the subject line I was thinking a whole different direction.

Post by **JRL** » 21 Sep 2007, 06:13

You just continue to do things without thinking or researching
A 960 is a RWD with a completely different offset wheel, IT WILL NOT FIT AT ALL on an 850
As for the fluid either use Volvo oil and a synthetic like RedLine. It's not all that importentc WHAT you use as long as the fluid is the right type
The manuals will work the fine with different brand fluids

volvoaddict007 · Post by **volvoaddict007** » 21 Sep 2007, 13:55

Equinutok,

As far as the posting advice, It is also good to stay on the same thread until that particular problem is remedied. When you post another reply the thread will come back to the top and the folks helping you will already be aware of the issue.

Now on your other thread you mentioned that the sound you were hearing was barely perceptible and the clutch was working fine. I don't understand why you are doing the clutch R&R. A mechanic who does a lot of transmissions will be more likely to tell you that you need a clutch. I'd like to know the reason he said you need one.

You have verified that the car has less than 80K. The car should not be needing a clutch already unless the previous owner was just brutal with it.

Manual transmissions make subtle sounds that automatics don't make.

If you had a throwout bearing ready to lock up it would be making a lot of noise when the cluth is out and MAYBE when it is depressed as well.

If you start making repairs everytime 1 mechanic tells you to, you're going to wind up with a second mortgage.

It can be frustrating for us to spend time with new people but are not allowed to follow through and positively determine a problem only to watch them turn to the advice of a mechanic that is GETTING PAID.

Please post back here before you spend a lot of time and money needlessly.

Maybe there's an unusual reason you need a clutch but so far you haven't told us of one...

va007

equinutok · Post by **equinutok** » 21 Sep 2007, 22:12

Actually I have done tons of research on many things and did not say I was buying those rims but was going to check it out. I found several webpages to check the rim size. Like I said before its not a major issue for rims right now .I was checking it out not on a shopping spree yet.
As for the fluid the mechanic spoke well of Castrol Synthetic and I found the threads on this message board regarding it. I have not made the decision if I want to use it or drive back to Tulsa and deal with the Volvo guys . I have spoke with 4 mechanics two of them I know personally. This car was in Dallas traffic so yes the clutch was used heavily. I had an idea the clutch was going to be an issue before I even picked the car up. As for the noise I guess the best way to explain it is.... It sounds like the heat shield is vibrating or rattling when you depress the clutch. Only when the clutch is depressed. If you are sitting at a light you cannot hear anything until you press in the clutch pedal and it does it until you have shifted. Its a little strange to me but until we get the car into the shop and on a rack we can only guess. Either way I will order the clutch kit because I can return it if its something else.

volvoaddict007 · Post by **volvoaddict007** » 22 Sep 2007, 00:56

If you remember on your other thread I was telling about the woman w/ 195k on her 850 non turbo wagon. She had bought that car w/ very low miles and never replaced the clutch. So I asked her what type of driving they did and How much bumper to bumper stuff ( Los Angeles area )

Apparently there was a lot....

I can't imagine any place worse than L.A on a clutch.

I think the T-5 wheels you see on my wagon and on matthews avatar are some of the best looking and easy to clean ever. They are 16s and junkyards should have them or you may find the by some other method. You should be able get them for about $200 for all four.

I'll take another wild guess that something with the clutch mechanisms is vibrating or rubbing something such as the exhaust or heat shield.

Let us know. I'm curious...

va007

Post by **JRL** » 22 Sep 2007, 06:04

I have a set of the newer (98-00) 16" Perfo turbo wheels for sale.
Similar to the above wheels he mentioned but a bit prettier and a 1/2" wider (a good thing).
They are in as new, brand new condition with not a single scrape and no curb rash, $350 plus shipping

equinutok · Post by **equinutok** » 22 Sep 2007, 12:59

I really have hopes when this car is lifted we can see something other than the clutch. I noticed last night it is not really shifting correctly at 3500 rpm . It becomes hard to get into gear, If I shift at 2500 RPM it shifts smooth. The car down shifts fine. I was thinking last night about the lower motor mounts and what effect they could have on this shifting? Understand I am old gear head and get into these type of things. I do not race any street rods and have not for years but still like the small details of things and like things to run correctly. I am the anal on in this family for mechanics of the cars and trucks. I can ever hear if our Power Stroke is low on oil! It is not normal I understand this. I have not had a Volvo until now so its like a whole new adventure for me. When I have a better idea of the details I will ask less stupid questions.
For these rims folks have for sale. I am sure shipping would be pretty expensive but I am still curious to see them. I live in NE Oklahoma so I am in the middle of nothing close.