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New front brake caliper, bad piston seal??

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futureboycolin
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Post by futureboycolin »

Hey guys, I'm replacing my front brake calipers today, and got some reman from FCP. Looks like the piston boot/seal isn't seated properly on the front right one. I'll attach a picture.

If I go ahead and install it, will it reseat itself or am I just asking for trouble?

Is there a way I can reseat the boot before I put it all back together?
Attachments
IMG_0283.JPG
Last edited by futureboycolin on 12 Aug 2015, 16:18, edited 1 time in total.
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cn90
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Post by cn90 »

You can reseat the boot yourself.
I posted info below...

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... hp?t=37721
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futureboycolin
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Post by futureboycolin »

Is there a way to push out the piston without an air compresser?

I reconnected the caliper to the brake line to stop it from leaking. Can I push it out using the brake pedal?
1996 855T, "Ol Burgie"

futureboycolin
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Post by futureboycolin »

Well, good news is that I reseated the piston boot.

The bad news is that I can't for the life of me loosen up the top bolt on the caliper bracket. I'm on my way to get a torch and hit it with some heat. It's soaking in WD40 right now, but if this fails, I'm not sure what I will do...leave the old bracket on? I'm so close to rounding the bolt.
1996 855T, "Ol Burgie"

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abscate
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Post by abscate »

Wd40 is not a penetrating oil. Use PB blaster it Liquid a Wrench, or the infamous acetone/ATF mix if you like to cook meth.

You need to wire brush the bolts and apply this for three days at least to let it soak in. Ring the bolt heads with a hammer too. Patience patience and persistence. It took years to freeze up, take a few days to loosen it.

Deal with it now as you need to get this off when you need to replace rotors
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Post by Herb Goltz »

Make sure you use 6 point sockets-- I have had good luck with steady force using a 3 foot breaker bar.

If the head is buggered up when you get it off, buy a new one.

Good luck!
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Post by jakeman1111 »

I had same problem with top caliper bolt. Tried every chemical loosening agent known. Final solution: Removed slide pins to allow removal of hydraulic portion of caliper. Doing so allowed me Saws-All access to bolt head. Using metal cutting blade (make sure spindle is fully turned to obtain room for Saw-All). Wire brush clean bolt flange to steering knuckle mating flange to allow for precise placement of cutting blade. Cut bolt head off and the remaining caliper part can be removed

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Post by abscate »

Thats a nasty piece of work, Jake - well done..
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Post by wizechatmgr »

Wowsers...

I'm guessing the heat wasn't able to break that bond.
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In order to learn how to fix something, you must first learn how to break it.
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