Head gasket job. Won't start

Post by **loosenut** » 13 Jan 2018, 12:22

oops, lol, for some reason i complet;ey did not get that whole ;last few interactions. so yeah, disreguard what i said just now...haha

Kazbear · Post by **Kazbear** » 13 Jan 2018, 12:36

No worries. It's great to get all feedback and impressions. Every time the timing is described, I get a little more insight.
I truly appreciate every one here and their support.

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 13 Jan 2018, 19:38

If you have a pyrex baking/casserole dish...

Place all valves into it... Liberally spray them with oven cleaner or aircraft stripper... Let it sit for 5 minutes and then rinse off. Do this outside as the stuff stinks to high hell (strong acids involved.) Do not let the stuff sit on them any longer than you need to as there is a whole list of bad things that could happen. A brass bristle brush doesn't hurt either... Do as many times as you need to.

If all else fails, replace the valve in question. Try to make sure your angles and depth after lapping are as close to dead on as possible - these vehicles like to burn valves. Rumor has it the seating of the valve helps transfer heat - and if it isn't sealing/seating correctly, it will burn the valve, seat or both.

Kazbear · Post by **Kazbear** » 14 Jan 2018, 11:55

Thank you.

No luck on oven cleaner. Brass brush is not effective either. I also tried seafoam as suggested elsewhere on the net. No luck.

The intake valves are not bad, I already cleaned 4 without too much trouble. The exhaust valves are just baked on there

Post by **rspi** » 14 Jan 2018, 15:06

I clean the carbon off of the valves on a wire brush grinder.
I lap the valves with a drill w/vacuum hose attached.
Contact me if you have any questions.

QUARKS40 · Post by **QUARKS40** » 15 Jan 2018, 08:44

Kazbear wrote: ↑13 Jan 2018, 09:51 Right now though, I got carbon build up on the valves that has hardened into a new surface. Trying to get all that off so I can lap valves (lapping tool won't suck to the valve with all that stuff on it). I got 4 valves done on the intake side. Tried my hand on one valve on the exhaust side and so far, I can't imagine how that stuff is going to come off...

Bead Blast?
EDIT: Makes me wonder what condition the exhaust seats are in.

Kazbear · Post by **Kazbear** » 18 Jan 2018, 11:30

I was able to remove all the carbon with the right wire wheel and patience.

Lapped all the intake valves. Started on the exhaust valves and they seemed out of round. All of them. Looking at the pistons, I can see some marks on the exhaust side.

Must have slammed those valves into the pistons when I first tried to start and it was not in the right timing setup.

I'm guessing I need to replace all the exhaust valves.

Post by **abscate** » 18 Jan 2018, 12:25

THe semicircles on the pistons are normal. Post pics of the valves

Post by **loosenut** » 18 Jan 2018, 12:39

sounds like you are getting a crash course in cylinder head rebuilds. and not the best way to sign up for the course. lol.
the hardest and most teadious part is still to come. measuring the valve clearance to sort out all of the jumbled up valves. and there are no I/E markings to go with those numbers. I= intake E=exhaust.
i havent watched any of those posted videos so im not sure if they have steered you towards the cam tool to hold down the cams while you measure the gap.

Post by **FLXC90** » 18 Jan 2018, 19:35

You are now at a critical point in the process. If the exhaust valves are bent, you would probably be better off following the advice Robert (RSpi) gave earlier, to replace the head. Turbo engines use sodium filled valves, which can be 50 bucks a pop. There's $500 of incentive to save the hassle of setting up all those lifters, perhaps several times.

Either Junkyard head, look for a car that was crashed; (or Erie Volvo, or Southern Vovo) ; or check with Clearwater heads in FL for a rebuilt.

Head gasket job. Won't start

Re: Head gasket job. Won't start