Didn't notate hydraulic lifters position

KevinBug · Post by **KevinBug** » 14 Jan 2018, 08:22

Okay I did an Head gasket replacement and when I disassembled the car I took the hydraulic lifters out but didn't mark placement. So on reassemble I can not seem to.get either cam to move after cam cover install. Seems like camshaft is unbalanced both intake and exhaust. Like when I turn they will go Lower and higher but I am figuring not enough pressure to push follower and valve fully? Help needed. Also I have one follower that will hardly depress and one follower that will depress but sticks will not disengage

Post by **rspi** » 14 Jan 2018, 15:08

Huh? What are you trying to do?

Post by **FLXC90** » 14 Jan 2018, 17:07

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=84002
Start here. Are you sure you have hydraulic lifters? How tight did you torque the cam cover bolts? They only require a very slight torque. Also, are you sure the crankshaft is at the timing reference; many people try to do this with #1 at TDC due to experience with older motors. If so there WILL be interference.

KevinBug · Post by **KevinBug** » 14 Jan 2018, 19:23

Yes have timing mark lined up, some people.call them lifters but they are really hydraulic followers. They slide down from the top. I just snugged Dow. The cam covering four increment going.from left to right. The last two times I finished with the middle. Before I took.them off the cams would move pretty freely with just a little force now.they don't move at all with cam cover down. I believe I will have to get 20 new followers just hope it isnt another problem and spend 200 dollars for nothing.

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 14 Jan 2018, 19:41

Are all three timing marks lined up? If you don't get all three aligned within reason before you lock down the cam cover you can end up locking the cams in a interference condition.

Post by **rspi** » 14 Jan 2018, 20:00

KevinBug wrote: ↑14 Jan 2018, 19:23 Yes have timing mark lined up, some people.call them lifters but they are really hydraulic followers. They slide down from the top. I just snugged Dow. The cam covering four increment going.from left to right. The last two times I finished with the middle. Before I took.them off the cams would move pretty freely with just a little force now.they don't move at all with cam cover down. I believe I will have to get 20 new followers just hope it isnt another problem and spend 200 dollars for nothing.

Did you use assembly grease to install the cams and cover?
Is the belt on?
Are you trying to turn the crank with the belt on?

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 14 Jan 2018, 22:34

It they're hydraulic it shouldn't matter which one was in which position provided they were in good condition. I usually dump oil on them before insertion and then cover them in oil after installation. Engine assembly lube also performs a similar function and wouldn't hurt.

Solid lifters going back into the correct location however matters greatly and is another story...

KevinBug · Post by **KevinBug** » 15 Jan 2018, 01:44

Wizechatmgr- everything I have read and my Chilton manual says you have to put back in same place, I was thinking because of wear? RSPI no I did not use assembly grease I used a little oil does it make a huge difference? I have not installed the belt and I haven't touched the crank since I took the timing belt off three months ago when I started. Richhaleparker- I alligned the cams with the cut marks In the back of engine with intake label down parrelel with engraved marks and exhaust up lined with engraved marks.i haven't looked back at crankshaft since taking off timing belt. Well I will take back off and use assembly grease- what is difference in solid lifters and hydraulic? My Volvo is 99 S70 non turbo fwd 2.4l base

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 15 Jan 2018, 02:06

Did you at any point have the cam's sprockets off? If so, did you use the cam locking tool for reinstallation?

Hydraulic lifters should be fine to swap around. Solid lifters aren't. The hydraulic's adjustments come from oil pressure where as the solid lifter style are usually something like a shim under bucket design or actually different sized units. I know RSPI has worked on a ton of both types of engines and can give you the ins and outs.

I like Chilton's books - but sometimes they are excessive about things due to the fact there is potential liability involved. Bently publishers makes some great books for the VW crowd.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m6tVP6uq9ls

I'm not exactly sure how you're determining they're binding if you don't have the timing belt on. If you're trying to rotate them by hand without the belt on your not going to be able to - and even with it on, it won't be a super easy chore. This is an interference engine.

What was the initial reason for tearing the top end off again?

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 15 Jan 2018, 03:08

Richhaleparker- I alligned the cams with the cut marks In the back of engine with intake label down parrelel with engraved marks and exhaust up lined with engraved marks.i haven't looked back at crankshaft since taking off timing belt.

If you look at the alignment cuts on the back of the cams, your see they are slightly off center. Both should be installed with the alignment cuts horizontal. The intake alignment cut should be offset above center and the exhaust alignment cut should be offset below center.

: Cam Alignment Rear.gif (18.63 KiB) Viewed 3221 times