S80 Head Bolts

Fenderstrat72 · Post by **Fenderstrat72** » 21 Sep 2007, 22:32

I got suckered into changing the head gasket on my girlfriends 1999 S80. I am slowly starting to regret this job. I am a decent mechanic and my friend who is helping me makes a living fixing cars. However, we have never worked on a Volvo and actually took the head off of this one before we realized we couldn't find a Haynes or Chilton's manual for it.

A couple of questions here. First, are the head bolts reusable or are they torque to yield? If they are reusable what is the torque on them? Likewise are the bolts that hold the top portion of the cam/valve cover reusable and if they are reusable what it the torque on them?

I also figured out real quick that the dealer is no place to buy parts. Actually I knew this however my usual venues, Autozone, NAPA and Advance Auto carry very little Volvo parts. Called the dealer and after he said $130.00 for a head gasket I figured it was time to surf the net and find the parts on-line.

We are also changing the water pump, timing belt, tensioner, and idlers as well as the thermostat.

Any info on things that might bite us in the rear would be appreciated?

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 22 Sep 2007, 07:58

I assume you have a 2.9. You can look here for parts....just search around on the site for the other things you mentioned. Any shipment over $39 is free! http://www.eeuroparts.com/searchresults ... 0&cat=1011
Head gasket screws are tightened from the inside out (alternating top and bottom) first at 20Nm (14.75 ft lbs) then 60Nm (44.25 ft lbs), then 130degrees. The valve cover uses a liquid gasket that you roll on with a small roller (like you would if you were painting a wall). You can reuse the screws once but that's it. Volvo actually recommends new screws for those with lock-tite on them already, so you decide. Head gasket replacement on your car is a complicated procedure because a ton of stuff has to come off and then back on, and you have to deal with the cam gears, holding them in place, etc. as you R&R the top of the engine. If you want, I have a pdf file that explains the procedure with diagrams. If you'll email me, I'll send it to you. badger36-at-knology.net (replace -at- with @). Good luck!

Fenderstrat72 · Post by **Fenderstrat72** » 22 Sep 2007, 22:16

Thanks a bunch for the info. I emailed you for the PDF file.

I believe I will order new head bolts. The way you described the procedure leads me to believe replacing them is the way to go.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 23 Sep 2007, 08:51

I got your email and pdf's send (printed to file from VADIS). Hope it's the information you need.

Fenderstrat72 · Post by **Fenderstrat72** » 24 Sep 2007, 18:37

Where can I find the recommended sealant you were talking about?

Fenderstrat72 · Post by **Fenderstrat72** » 17 Oct 2007, 18:48

We got the car back together and it runs great. I will say that this was no small job and I wouldn't recommend it as a DIY unless you have a friend that is a great mechanic.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 17 Oct 2007, 19:24

Glad to hear everything went fine. Any pictures? If so, and you're willing to write up a "how-to" I'll post it in the repair database. If not, then any tips for those who might do this in the future is appreciated by other '99 S80 owners!

Fenderstrat72 · Post by **Fenderstrat72** » 02 Nov 2007, 16:24

The repair guide calls for special tools to remove and install the valve cover, I recommend you rent one or fabricate one. We did neither, however we were very lucky and I wouldn't do it that way again.

Other than that, the way the intake cam works is a bit intimidating. My friend was able to get the engine in close enough time that it started right away. However, the timing was a little too high, check engine light came on. A little head scratching and minor adjustment to the intake cam gear and we were off and running.

If you read the book on how to set the timing you will see it is a very complicated operation. We were lucky because we marked everything as we took it apart. Crank position, each cam position, the bolts on the cam gears (which are slotted and can be moved independently of the cam).

Don't forget, the head bolts must be replaced and not reused. Change the thermostat and water pump while you have everything apart, better than having to go back in and do it later. Also, change the timing belt, tensioner and idlers at this time. Again, better to do it now rather than later.

One last thing, parts are more reasonably priced on-line than they are at most dealers.

danb · Post by **danb** » 30 Mar 2008, 06:03

I am in the same situation of my GF car. We have so far pulled the head installed gasket, and had a head job done on it. We put it back together yesterday and the timing is off. It will crank and run but not well. I would really like any info anyone has for this ordeal.

Thanks
Dan

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 30 Mar 2008, 08:06

Dan,
I'm glad you posted here because now I know which car you speak of. I respond to so many thread on this forum that just from your email I would have assumed you were speaking of an 850. If you made a cam holding tool and used it to keep everything in place I would say that the timing would not be off. The good news is that I believe you won't have to take the top of the engine off again to reset the timing. However, the timing belt might have to be slipped off to get things lined up correctly. I am sending you one of the two files I sent the original poster. I hope the file answers your questions. The one I'm not sending you has to do with the correct torque specs for the bolts. If you need that one too, please write back and I'll send it as well.
Let us know how things go.
Regards,
MIJ