Head gasket job. Won't start

[RickHaleParker]

Either Junkyard head


He is in Dacula Ga
$75.00 at LQK Pick Your Part in Fayetteville, GA, core $15.00, $90.00 total. Less the the cost of two valves.
Fayetteville, GA currently has in stock:

• 2001 C70 front end damage.
  2005 V70 front end damage.
  1999 S70 Straight body.
  1999 S70 Straight body
  1999 S70 Straight body
  2004 C70 Minor front end damage.

Assemble one good head from two.

[FLXC90]

That is what I would do, don't know aptitude or inclination of OP.

OP; if you do pick a JY head and just swap a couple valves, make sure you swap the respective lifters as well. Not to be a wise acre and I know you've learned the lesson. Just a reminder.

[loosenut]

he has solid lifters, those lifters are all one size in the beginning. they are then shaved to fit the gap needed. i dont think there is any better possibilty of making one head out of two. you would still need the tool to hold down the cams and have access to the lifters to measure. its like the old shims only you have to move the lifters around or have them milled at a machine shop.
i like rickparkers idea. if you pick it your self you have control of what is where and can mark I and E and 1 to 20 keep it all counted for and clean and reassemble.
unless i am wrong..i could be wrong.

[wizechatmgr]

For what it's worth - I've used Clearwater cylinder heads previously on a VW and had ZERO issues with them. As far as I know the engine is still in use 6+ years on.

There also used to be a place in the Chesapeake/Portsmouth area of VA that was called the Cylinder Head Factory - they also were good. I'm unsure if they still exist.

[FLXC90]

he has solid lifters, those lifters are all one size in the beginning. they are then shaved to fit the gap needed. i dont think there is any better possibilty of making one head out of two. you would still need the tool to hold down the cams and have access to the lifters to measure. its like the old shims only you have to move the lifters around or have them milled at a machine shop.
i like rickparkers idea. if you pick it your self you have control of what is where and can mark I and E and 1 to 20 keep it all counted for and clean and reassemble.
unless i am wrong..i could be wrong.

https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/show ... veLine=457

As mentioned previously, the whole lifter is changed- like a shim on 70s VW watercooleds and maybe redblocks? They have different part numbers for the thicknesses. (Just for clarification, not to flame anyone)

So, assuming similar valve seat thickness, as long as valve and corresponding lifter are moved together...

[QUARKS40]

I was able to remove all the carbon with the right wire wheel and patience.

Lapped all the intake valves. Started on the exhaust valves and they seemed out of round. All of them. Looking at the pistons, I can see some marks on the exhaust side.

Must have slammed those valves into the pistons when I first tried to start and it was not in the right timing setup.

I'm guessing I need to replace all the exhaust valves.

WAIT! did you not rotate the engine after reassembly, the first time and ensure that nothing was hitting? I'll admit, if the lifters hadn't pumped up yet you may not have heard it then. But when you spun it to start, it would have sounded like a diesel. You'd have know you did something wrong.
My heart fell when I read about the exhaust valves. Are you sure the divot in the piston tops are fresh?

[abscate]

Pictures needed. Pistons come fresh from Volvo with divot marks on them, there are several pictures here on MVS.

This is common on car, VW has a Golf TSB on replacing your divots.

[RickHaleParker]

i like rickparkers idea. if you pick it your self you have control of what is where and can mark I and E and 1 to 20 keep it all counted for and clean and reassemble.

He would be starting off with a matched set of lifters and valves. If he does need to replace a couple of the 20 new valves with old ones, it would be a whole lot less work then trying to match 20 valves and lifters.

[Kazbear]

Sorry, I have moved very slowly on this. Update.

I ended up ordering new exhaust valves. Then continued from there. Sorted out the lifters, ensured the timing was set up (made a cam locking jig) and just put it all back together about 2 hours ago.

I really can't tell you how amazing it was that it actually started. And it sounds great.

Now I have a major coolant leak, but I will track that down. Seems like it's from the water pump.

But thank you to all that helped me through this so far. Invaluable assistance.

And no, I did not rotate it manually first before trying to start the first time. I did this time though... lol

Those marks on the pistons were fresh. It took me a while to work out what happened. Now I understand a little better.

Again. Thank you for the help.

[Kazbear]

I will post some pics as well, just to help flush out the thread, if any would find it helpful. Just need to figure out how to post pics... lol.