Calling places for quotes is raising more questions:
- One dealer and a couple shops said the power steering fluid doesn't need to be replaced ever. Another dealer didn't have an objection but said you need to replace the filter too, which requires replacing the tank.
- Basically all shops are saying you need to replace the water pump with the belt. Only one shop would even give me a quote for just the belt.
- Most places seem to charge around $100 to flush/replace each fluid.
Thoughts?
Very low use/low milage 2007 XC70, need upkeep pointers
- Rattnalle
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The water pump is generally replaced every second belt by Volvo dealers here in Sweden regardless if the belt is replaced due to age or mileage. The timing belt is 120000 miles or 10 years.
While it's correct that the power steering fluid doesn't have a replacement interval it doesn't hurt to replace it once or twice during the lifetime of the car. If it's still a clear green I'd let it be, if not replace. It takes about ten minutes to do yourself using a syringe to empty the reservoir, refill, drive around the block and repeat. Same with the transmission fluid, let it be as long as it's a nice clear red if you're looking to keep costs down. Coolant should have a specified life span of the corrosion inhibitors in the safety data sheet, somewhere in the region of 3-6 years depending on what kind it is. I think most normal people never replace it and obviously that works too..
As long as you keep the car garaged and don't do a lot of short tips in cold weather starting with a frozen engine I'd agree that an oil change every other year would probably be OK as long as you use a proper synthetic.
I personally wouldn't be too worried about a few cosmetic cracks in the sidewalls. That said tyres are also one of the worst places to try to save money since it's such a critical part for safety. I've had good tyres that were ten years old and still performed as they should. I've also seen almost new (but cheap) tyres look like your pictures pretty quickly and perform horribly when new.
While it's correct that the power steering fluid doesn't have a replacement interval it doesn't hurt to replace it once or twice during the lifetime of the car. If it's still a clear green I'd let it be, if not replace. It takes about ten minutes to do yourself using a syringe to empty the reservoir, refill, drive around the block and repeat. Same with the transmission fluid, let it be as long as it's a nice clear red if you're looking to keep costs down. Coolant should have a specified life span of the corrosion inhibitors in the safety data sheet, somewhere in the region of 3-6 years depending on what kind it is. I think most normal people never replace it and obviously that works too..
As long as you keep the car garaged and don't do a lot of short tips in cold weather starting with a frozen engine I'd agree that an oil change every other year would probably be OK as long as you use a proper synthetic.
I personally wouldn't be too worried about a few cosmetic cracks in the sidewalls. That said tyres are also one of the worst places to try to save money since it's such a critical part for safety. I've had good tyres that were ten years old and still performed as they should. I've also seen almost new (but cheap) tyres look like your pictures pretty quickly and perform horribly when new.
- Rattnalle
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You can do the power steering from the top with a syringe, same principle as a drain-and-fill ATF replacement.
Coolant has a drain under the radiator on the drivers side. If you look there's a small hole in the plastic cover underneath. You can reach up with a socket with the car on the ground. About a third of the total volume will drain through it.
Does your MY have a dipstick for the transmission? Yellow, far down to the right of the engine when looking from the front. I'm not sure they kept it for later models. Without it I don't know how to check easily.
Brake fluid has to be done though the calipers. To do it properly all the wheels have to come off so you get fresh fluid in each caliper. You can do one-by-one though.
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Durenol
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It does have an ATF dipstick, but it's buried almost two feet down near the bottom of the engine. As far as I can tell, it's impossible to pull the dipstick out without first removing part of the wiring harness, a 2in diameter hose, and part of the radiator.
- oragex
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$150 would be for parts only, belt, roller and tensioner. From the Volvo dealer. Aftermarket it's Gates perhaps $100 for the same parts (not recommend other brands).
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
- oragex
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I'm not sure this compares with the used market in the US, but in Canada we get 4 used tires in great condition for less than $250 in a good brand. 16 inches is a rather popular size easy to find. They can be kept for another 5+ years or so. Worth watching Ebay or local classifieds with no rush, and grab a good deal when it shows up
As for the compatible sizes, here is a tire size calculator (click by Tire size)
http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Tire-Size-Calculator
this calculator will give the speedometer change if the replacement tire is not the exact overall diameter
https://tiresize.com/speedometer-calibration/
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
- Rattnalle
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The "Volvo" kits are likely made by Bosch, Continental or maybe SKF. Though Volvo in NA could very well source from local NA suppliers rather than European ones I suppose.oragex wrote: ↑26 Jan 2018, 15:08
$150 would be for parts only, belt, roller and tensioner. From the Volvo dealer. Aftermarket it's Gates perhaps $100 for the same parts (not recommend other brands).
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Durenol
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Thanks, that helps a lot. Unfortunately most of the alternative sizes don't seem much better
I don't think used tires are a good idea, we're paying dollars-per-day not dollars-per-mile. Used tires aren't cheap enough to offset the lost years compared to new.
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