VVT hubs install / adjust

Post by **abscate** » 04 Mar 2018, 21:19

Yeah, i blew that. You leave the pulleyone tooth short to set the limitbolts, not the belt.

Post by **cn90** » 07 Mar 2018, 20:48

Watch this video, it should be all you need...

Post by **jonesg** » 08 Mar 2018, 00:33

cn90 wrote: ↑07 Mar 2018, 20:48 Watch this video, it should be all you need...

Except in his case the painted timing marks were lost when the head was cleaned by the machine shop.
Otherwise it would have been simple.

Post by **oragex** » 08 Mar 2018, 03:50

chrism wrote: ↑03 Mar 2018, 00:31 Try this, written by user F250.

download/file.php?id=32533

Nice DIY, thanks for sharing. That said, this job is not for me... only 50 easy steps

Post by **cn90** » 08 Mar 2018, 20:09

- Actually it is very simple if you think about it: when it is all said and done (like during normal operation), the cam marking lines up with the TB cover, so you cannot turn CW any more than that (cam in retarded position"). But you can turn it CCW (now cam in "advanced position").

- So, look at the VIDA instructions below, which is basically useless, but use it only for markings.
- Finger-tighten the center bolt a bit, this way you can turn the Hub CW until it lines up with the mark on the TB cover, tighten the center bolt a bit more. Now rock the gear back and forth (CCW and CW)...in the CW position, it must line up with the TB cover mark.
- Once you are happy with this relationship, i.e., at full CW turn, it lines up properly, you can now tighten the center bolt to spec. Check the Hub again.

Whatever it is, when all said and done, the cam marking lines up with the TB cover when turned CW.

Post by **vtl** » 08 Mar 2018, 21:02

oragex wrote: ↑08 Mar 2018, 03:50 Nice DIY, thanks for sharing. That said, this job is not for me... only 50 easy steps

It's not that bad, plus he sheds light on a few gotchas, so you don't have to spend time working around them.

Critical question is tools. I'm not talking about camshaft locking and alignment tool, but good torx bits, good breaker bar, good precise torque wrench, seal puller and installer, etc.

MarcM · Post by **MarcM** » 09 Mar 2018, 04:46

It's not that bad, plus he sheds light on a few gotchas, so you don't have to spend time working around them.

Critical question is tools. I'm not talking about camshaft locking and alignment tool, but good torx bits, good breaker bar, good precise torque wrench, seal puller and installer, etc.

I have all that equipment. Only tools I didn't have, which I recently bought, was a torque angle gauge for the head bolts and the camshaft locking tool.
I appreciate people throwing information into the thread. Helpful as usual!

MarcM · Post by **MarcM** » 24 Mar 2018, 13:04

Well, I lucked out. VVT/CVVT isn't spring loaded. Not too bad (so far). Bought the full cam/crank tool set. Took quite awhile to discover the crank pin tool requires removal of starter and the plug they speak of is behind it. Directions are non-existent per se. Hubs are on. Fiddled a bit to get the hubs so that the slots on the gear are centered to hub bolt holes so there's wiggle room up top.

pdr1966sc · Post by **pdr1966sc** » 06 Nov 2018, 13:39

Can I jump in here - I have my cams locked at the back of the engine.
Reinstalling the EXHAUST VVT sprocket - intake was NOT removed.
What I see for the intake VVT is that it is- starting from the mark matching the cover - I can turn clockwise ABOUT 2 teeth or 3 troughs where as to run from TDC counter clockwise it is about 1/2 that.
- would it be a correct to assume that the exhaust should have the similar relationship (slightly more forward than back) travel within the range?

Post by **cn90** » 28 May 2022, 13:19

I need to revisit this issue of confusing VIDA instructions (1 cog, 1.5 cog blah blah blah etc.).

Here are my simple thoughts having done a few VVT Hubs...

1. You must lock the rear camshafts, search forum for tools (ebay vs home-made).
People here recommend CTA brand, so this is what I use.
Do NOT over-tighten the bolts on the locking tool, just snug it down and that is it.

2. I can tell you what is confusing:

- The pdf in the above link by "F250", while it was written with good intention, is confusing,
especially when it comes to the 3 adjusting bolts.

- This video below is another confusing video:

---
- Locking the cam is an art, you may have to turn the crank (30-mm nut) back and forth a bit until it is right.
You are talking about 1-2mm here and there on the crank 30-mm nut. Once the camshafts are locked
in the rear: verify that crank marks and cam marks are perfect. Tricks in forum: use white-out paint to help you see these tiny marks.

- For factory setup, no need to mess with the 3 adjustment bolts.

3. Anyway, to recap:

- When it is all said and done, just before you install the timing belt:
* With camshafts locked
* With center bolt (T55) and 3 adjusting bolts gently snugged...
---> The VVT should be able to go CCW and CW, and on full CW, it should line up with the mark
on TB cover. See above video I posted on 07 Mar 2018, this is the single best video on youtube
bc it shows the trick of marking the back side of the VVT hub, this way you don't have to install/remove
the TB cover all the time while checking.
* Once you are happy with the CCW and CW rotation, tighten the center bolt and 3 bolts a bit more.
Check again to be sure nothing has been disturbed, then torque them down:
* Center bolt (T55) is about 85-88 ft*lb.
* The three (3) 8-mm adjusting bolts: ~ 8-10 ft*lb; I use some Red Loctite here.

VVT hubs install / adjust

Re: VVT hubs install / adjust