98 V70 glt headgasket

[wizechatmgr]

Odds are it was a sand like aluminum stop leak product made from ground/processed aluminum. Take that and add tap water and you get a mess.

Could have been worse... At least they didn't put Dex-Cool into it. That makes a sludge when air is introduced that damn near requires an acid bath and then pressure washing...

[RickHaleParker]

It might be that somebody used hard water in the past and the minerals in the hard water percolated out of the hard water. Pick off a sample and place it in some CLR® Calcium, Lime, & Rust Remover, see if the CLR will break it down.

[erikv11]

As Neil said about the hard water theory back on page one: seems very unlikely to just be water deposits given the amount of buildup. Would have to ba a lot of hard water drain and fills lol. Almost surely something was dumped in there.

[RickHaleParker]

While you have the head off, you might as well replace or clean out the oil trap and the oil channels.

[stephansvolvo]

While you have the head off, you might as well replace or clean out the oil trap and the oil channels.

My original plan was to do the head clean up the block, replace PCV, etc. you know all the stuff that walks towards stage zero.
Just not sure what to do at this point. If the corrosion has done damage to the block I can’t really afford to replace the engine. Guess I have some decisions to make.

[abscate]

Another vote for a gasket sealer product.

Chip it out, flush flush flush clean clean clean

New HG, head back on and be happy.

[RickHaleParker]

If the corrosion has done damage to the block

Have you tried dissolving some in CLR?

I can’t really afford to replace the engine.

Don't count that out yet. Here a PnP Engine (no Access) is $230.00. Volvo I5s are so durable a PnP engine is a good bet.

Chip it out, flush flush flush clean clean clean

If it will dissolve in CLR, he can reassemble, fill with CLR, let it sit then flush. This way he would get the block and radiator cleaned out. Of course he would need to leave the thermostat out until after the flushing is done.

[erikv11]

As far as cleaning, the issue is hardly the deposits he can see, it's the ones he can't. I think cleaning is bad advice here and wouldn't waste a second on that, including because we are not discussing some rare or valuable engine. We don't know what the crap is, why it's there ... He bought it taking a chance, that chance has not turned in his favor, so either dump it or swap the engine.

A replacement engine is definitely cheaper than a bunch of head work, and definitely less work than a head gasket job. Far less complicated than pulling the head, you just need some space, come caution, and a hoist. Time investment is similar but you are literally just taking some things off and out, then back in and on. Go ahead and do whatever routine maintenance you can afford while the engine is out (PCV, timing, tune, ***OIL PAN SEALS is arguably the most important one***, etc).

I would check out what it will actually cost you. It does add extra apparent hassle and mess, which can make waves on the home front I know ...

[June]

I have a idea for cleaning up the water jackets around the cylinder walls. Use a long handle bottle brush. Wall mart and Lowe's sells plenty of versions available. I would not use acidic chemical as residual might continue to eat the aluminum. June

Afterthought on my part; I think I have seen this type of brush with wire bristles.

[JimBee]

I have a cylinder head that was stored where it was exposed to atmospheric moisture, it had some buildup like that. There was no other substance in the moisture. I cleaned it up with a brass wire brush and a skinny wire version of the type June shows. I think I bought the brush set at Harbor Freight.
It cleaned up well, tho there is a slight discoloration where the corrosion was. Not sure if that means anything.