The Easy Way to Replace Your S80 Washer Pump

[White Chocolate]

So I thought I'd post this regarding replacing the washer pump on a 2005 Volvo S80 AWD because it is so much easier than you read about on the forums or even from VIDA diagrams. You may have read you have to remove wheel well linings, remove the bumper cover, remove the washer reservoir, etc. You don't need to do any of those things! I just replaced my pump this weekend and it took all of maybe 30 minutes.

Here is how I did it:

Drive the car up on ramps.
From underneath, the pump and reservoir are located on the passenger side.
With plastic plate removed, you'll easily see the bottom of the windshield fluid reservoir.
The pump is pressed into the reservoir and sits inside a special rubber grommet.
The first step I did was remove the hose that supplies water to the windshield and the headlamp washers. Note that if your pump is original like mine was, as you wiggle the rubber hose to pull it off the pump, the actual little plastic stub/barb/nipple may actually break off the pump. DON'T PANIC. It happened to me and it is fine. We'll deal with that in a minute.
Note that as soon as you do this, any fluid remaining in the tank will begin to drain so watch out.
Next, take a flat-bladed screw driver and place is between the pump body and the rubber gasket or reservoir and twist to pry the pump out of the washer fluid reservoir. It won't take too much to free it. You may need a bigger screw driver to pry it out easily. Note that any remaining fluid will really come out quickly once this becomes loose.
Once you pop out the pump, free it from the reservoir (if it hasn't already) from the 2 plastic clips on the reservoir, there will be enough slack on the electrical connector to easily drop it down so you can undo the connector.
I strongly recommend that you order a new rubber grommet for a tight, leak-proof fit. It was only about $3 and the pump was about $13.
Remove the old rubber grommet from the washer reservoir. I used needle nose pliers to get a good grip on it. It's got some ribs on it, so it might take a little bit of a pull or a jiggle to free it, but it will easily come out.
Now, back to the hose with the broken off plastic stub/barb/nipple. The hose is pretty flexible rubber. You don't want to damage the hose as you will reuse it.
Take your needle nose pliers and carefully slip it ever so slightly under the rubber hose, so you can get a good grip on the stub/barb/nipple and pull it out of the hose. It will come out. You might need a couple tries if your pliers slip but it will come out. Hopefully, your pump piece won't break off like mine did.

Now we are ready to assemble the new components:

Insert the new rubber grommet into the reservoir. Be sure you have pressed it all the way in so that all of the little ribs have locked it tightly in the reservoir.
Next, take your new pump and connect the electrical connector. It only fits one way. Be sure to press it until you hear the connector snap onto the pump.
Now this trick I picked up and it really makes all the difference in the world. Because only friction holds the pump in the rubber grommet and makes a leak proof seal, the fit can be tight. Because you don't want to tear the grommet, use a lubricant on the pump's large fitting to slide it easily into the grommet. Don't use anything that will deteriorate rubber. The best thing you can use is any personal lubricant, like KY for instance, that you would use safely with a condom. Water soluble and it won't harm rubber. Place a small amount all around the large opening on the pump.
Next, line it up with the opening in your new rubber grommet and press it straight into the reservoir. You'll feel it slide past a few ribs and it will snap into place. The top of the pump motor will also snap into the little plastic fingers/clips at the top of the reservoir.
Lastly, connect the small water line that goes to the "T" that supplies water to the headlamp washers and windshield washers. Press it firmly onto the pump until it is firmly seated and past the barb.

That's it! Fill the reservoir with fluid and test.

There are many manufacturers of pumps. The genuine Volvo (actually Ford Motor Company) part is like $63. I bought an aftermarket for $13 and it works just fine. I would just recommend you replace the grommet at the same time to prevent any leaks.

I just wanted to post this because you do not need to remove bumper covers, headlamps, wheel well linings... Who wants all that extra work and then to have something else that may potentially break or become loose from removing it. It is not necessary on this model.

I have pictures of the job if anyone needs them...

[White Chocolate]

By plastic plate, I mean if your plastic lower engine cover is blocking your reservoir, remove it first.

[JenniferWatts]

Amazing, Thanks for sharing this fantastic read.