Trans drives in neutral (no reverse)

dbyczynski · Post by **dbyczynski** » 15 Mar 2018, 04:37

I have a 2001 V70XC, very clean but 330K miles. Drives forward in Neutral and no reverse. Any ideas? Any interest in a parts car. The motor is strong, it was running so good that I replaced the windshield a few weeks ago.

The ETM was rebuilt a few months ago and works great. That alone would make this a worthwhile investment.

Post by **abscate** » 15 Mar 2018, 04:48

It could be as simple as a gearshift adjustment st the console or PnP switch?

I don't have any automatics so wait for the Forum To wake up and comment

01_Nautic_V70 · Post by **01_Nautic_V70** » 15 Mar 2018, 08:13

abscate wrote: ↑15 Mar 2018, 04:48 It could be as simple as a gearshift adjustment st the console or PnP switch?

I don't have any automatics so wait for the Forum To wake up and comment

It's either the cable to the trans is out of adjustment (the adjustment is easily accessed with the airbox removed) or the valvebody itself has something stuck.

In neutral, all solenoids are off. Park is the same, but with a pawl engaged. In reverse, S3 is on, all others off. So we know S3 isn't working properly. The only forward gears that don't need S3 are D4 and D5, so I'd expect the wheels turn but it would take a lot of revs to do so.

Does the car try to drive in park and hit the pawl?

If so, that's not a cable adjustment issue, that's a valvebody issue (or worse yet, the trans itself has a cluthpack that just won't disengage.)

Post by **SuperHerman** » 15 Mar 2018, 23:18

How does your tranny oil look? Drain it and look for metal sparkle. What symptoms did the transmission exhibit, if any, before complete failure?

If you isolate the issue to the valve body, rebuild it with the TransGo kit. It is an easy job, costs about $150 all in with kit and fluids. You will find write ups on it. I did the same to my 2001 XC70. I used Valvoline Max-Life from Wal-Mart and skipped the 3308 without any issues.

If the car works well, is paid for, why not fix it.

dbyczynski · Post by **dbyczynski** » 18 Mar 2018, 10:24

More info: The car was on the alignment rack due to new tires. They ran the battery down (was on the rack for about two hours?) while the shifter was out of park. Then the mechanic asked me where the battery was located (made me nervous) to jump it. Once they got it running, they test drove it and I drove it about two or three miles without incident. Then it started flaring and slipping. Now it does seem to try to move in Park but hits the pawl. Also, the dash indicator does show the proper selection when moving through the positions. We opened up the shifter and did not find anything abnormal in there.

The seized clutch pack potential sure does seem logical at this point. Right now, it's at the shop and we have access to a lift. But.....

Post by **oragex** » 18 Mar 2018, 11:00

Maybe it's due to some electrical fault, these cars don't like the battery go flat, sometimes not even a jump start.

Also try measuring the fluid level.

Try putting the ignition key in Pos II (headlights on), and disconnect the battery, then leave it overnight. Then in the morning place again the key in ignition, reconnect the battery, and see how it goes from there.

If it still does it, I'd perhaps pay a visit to Volvo (I rarely recommend this on an old car because they can rip your bank account to pieces), with much care at what they say and ask them if they can reprogram the transmission for example.

Was the mechanic a young or an older guy?

dbyczynski · Post by **dbyczynski** » 18 Mar 2018, 11:12

The mechanic at the alignment shop looked to be 12 years old and left the car filthy. We tried the disconnect battery task. Pulled terminals and held together about 20 minutes, then left disconnected for 5 days while I was away. Connected in position II. No change in operation. We checked the fluid level first thing and i was OK. I flushed the system last summer as regular maintenance.

It does try to drive in park and you can feel it hit the pawl. I might have access to a Volvo reprogramming tool, seems like it could not hurt.

Post by **oragex** » 18 Mar 2018, 11:42

I'd try with Volvo and also look at the cables near the transmission. Hopefully, the mechanic didn't took it to a WCR ride like when he drove test it.

01_Nautic_V70 · Post by **01_Nautic_V70** » 19 Mar 2018, 08:14

If it is trying to drive in park and neutral you have one of two issues.

Automatic transmissions are hydraulic machines. Hydraulic pressure is routed through a complex series of valves (the valvebody) to push clutch packs together and apart as needed to obtain the desired gear or drive ratio. Your transmission is either failing to operate the valvebody properly (perhaps due to a stuck S3 solenoid) or the valves operate but a clutchpack is so broken that it cannot be disengaged.

I'd recommend checking S3 as that fix is simple enough. If it's not the valve body, only a full rebuild of the transmission will fix this. Honestly, having done a partial rebuild on an 01, it's not worth it. I later bought the best 02 gearbox I could find, cleaned that up and put it in. Shifts beautifully now.

To check the S3 solenoid, disconnect the large gray connector coming from the transmission wiring harness. Check the pin corresponding to the yellow wire. Resistance to ground should be 13.5-15.5 ohms at room temperature. Hard short or open indicate a failed solenoid. Good news, that's the easy fix.

: Connector and harness

: Valvebody on bench

dbyczynski · Post by **dbyczynski** » 26 Mar 2018, 07:15

Thanks, I will give this a try.....