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Help with XC70 purchase

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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dgh74
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Help with XC70 purchase

Post by dgh74 »

Hello All,

I’ve been lurking around here for a while reading up on these P2 XC70s and I'm trying to find a decent one for a 3rd car. it will probably see 2000 miles a year tops, and will be used primarily to take my son to school when my wife can't take him. I've got a classic Saab for fun (hope I don't get banned from the get go) and a newish BMW for long trips. So the Volvo will fit in between the two in the fleet.

At this point, if you can’t get lucky and score a low mileage 2007, then what’s the fallback plan?

1. A well-maintained 2005-2006? I understand that the trans servo was updated in 2005 and that the Haldex was better on the 2007s. Are there any other issues with cars of this vintage that makes them less-desireable as far as long-term use goes?

2. A better maintained 2004 (or earlier)? I understand that it’s best to avoid the 2001s. But if everything else is in order, then how are the 2004s, generally, aside from the servo issue?

3. What about taking a chance on one of the 2nd tier or higher mileage ones floating around used car lots and on eBay (if there’s evidence of oil changes and a service history)? There’s a good number of them on Ebay and at Volvo and non-Volvo-specific lots. But my take on these is that their provenance is unknown, even with the Carfax, and if they were solid, then they’d be in demand and priced higher. Is this logic correct?

4. This is anecdotal, but I split time between New York and Pennsylvania, and I’ve noticed that there are higher mileage 2007s (pushing 150K) for sale that aren’t moving, and lower mileage 2004 and earliers, that aren’t moving either. Why is this? Is everyone literally chasing after the same 2007? And are the higher mileage and older, lower-mileage cars best avoided? Or are they just priced beyond their true worth?

Thanks!

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Post by abscate »

Stay away from the used car lots and go with a private sale.

Whats your budget?

You can get a good P2 for 5-6k with 150-200k miles that won't need major work - get the VIN, look for a seller who has owned it for a while and is selling for reasons other than it needs work.

For such light use you can reach back to a 2001 - just drive it hot and cold and make sure the trans is smooth.

JRL here sells excellent condition "clean retail" cars for good money but thats just crying once.
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Post by oragex »

The better purchase would be one from an older person/lady that had it repaired by Volvo and had already replaced parts such as the belt, struts, control arms, etc

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Post by SuperHerman »

Two questions - What is your budget and what options do you want that may not be available on an earlier model if any? I will respond to your questions as asked.

1. A well-maintained 2005-2006? I understand that the trans servo was updated in 2005 and that the Haldex was better on the 2007s. Are there any other issues with cars of this vintage that makes them less-desireable as far as long-term use goes?

If trans servo is the B4, it is a $30 part and an easy fix. I would not pick a car on this alone. The Haldex system did get better over time. The 2001 and maybe 2002 did not have the Haldex system and it was purely mechanical. From my view point the Haldex system adds additional potential problems, although the system is suppose to be better. Again I would not use this as a purchase decision, other than to see the service history and/or do an inspection of the system on any car you are thinking about. The early non-Haldex system has two weak points, leaking seals/case and a coupler that strips. The Haldex system has all sorts of electric components that fail as well as seals that may leak.

2. A better maintained 2004 (or earlier)? I understand that it’s best to avoid the 2001s. But if everything else is in order, then how are the 2004s, generally, aside from the servo issue?

Again if the B4 servo is what you are talking about, it is a non-issue. I would not fear a 2001, but it will most likely have to have the valve body solenoids replaced. The 2001 does have an issue with the Electric Throttle Body, which was replaced with a pointless system in 2002. On my 2001 I converted it to a pointless system and never had any issues after that. Regardless of year the PCV system is an item to look at.

3. What about taking a chance on one of the 2nd tier or higher mileage ones floating around used car lots and on eBay (if there’s evidence of oil changes and a service history)? There’s a good number of them on Ebay and at Volvo and non-Volvo-specific lots. But my take on these is that their provenance is unknown, even with the Carfax, and if they were solid, then they’d be in demand and priced higher. Is this logic correct?

All used cars have prior owners only where one buys them from differs. Private party sale is usually the cheapest. Ebay dealers and used car lots basically source their cars from auctions or relationships with larger dealers. "Most" large dealers will not sell a car with high mileage, problems, a different brand and/or over 5 years old on their main lot. These are sent to auction or sold to a "friend" dealership. In this process money is made by both the party that takes the car in on trade and the party that is selling it. The closer to "new" generally has a price premium. You can get a car from a used car lot that has high mileage with an excellent service history but you can also get a problematic car that was improperly repaired to turn it for sale. Likewise you can get a great car from a private party or a total headache. You are correct in your assessment and the only way to truly know is to have an inspection performed

4. This is anecdotal, but I split time between New York and Pennsylvania, and I’ve noticed that there are higher mileage 2007s (pushing 150K) for sale that aren’t moving, and lower mileage 2004 and earliers, that aren’t moving either. Why is this? Is everyone literally chasing after the same 2007? And are the higher mileage and older, lower-mileage cars best avoided? Or are they just priced beyond their true worth?

Every car has a buyer at the right price. You are correct - they are not selling because the price is too high.

dgh74
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Post by dgh74 »

Thanks for the feedback! My budget is $7000 give or take now. And will likely rise if need be. I don't really need the car until summer. I spoke to JRL and I think that buying one from him would be ideal. But it sounds like the market for the lower mileage 2007s is insane at the moment.

The only option that I really care about is the 2nd row built in booster seats. But they're not that big a deal.

It's very helpful to learn more about some of these issues-- like the B4 servo not being a dealbreaker if the car's in good condition otherwise and if the tranny is shifting well. Thanks as well for the tip RE: the PCV. The sludge issue did in a lot of SAABS.

On that note, I looked at the Carfax for a few cars that seemed well-maintained otherwise. And the oil change interval seemed horrible. Some went 10K-20K without an oil change. Despite that they were at the dealers' for various other things and checks. I saw a car that had constant wiper blades and pads and rotors but only two oil changes. Does this sound right? I'm talking about from purchase on? Why would anyone buy a brand new car with a warranty and then neglect the oil changes?

OK. Now I have one more question about the Haldex vs. the entirely mechanical system. Is the mechanical one the one with the viscous coupling or was there a post-VC/pre-electronic Haldex? My dad had a VW in the 90s with a VC system and it was bullet-proof.

Thanks again!

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Post by matthew1 »

Welcome to MVS, dgh. Our AWD Guide will help you with that question.

You might like the MVS Powersearch page I wrote about a year ago. You can search the repair database by intersecting two categories: the car and the car's system.

And then there's the Volvo Buyer's Guide category. Good stuff in there. I hope you have a comfortable chair.
Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.

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Post by jonesg »

Short answer, go through RJL.

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Post by abscate »

I found two pieces of dirt under the rubber floor of the console bin on the V70 I bought from Jim, other than that it was clean retail
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Post by jking4020 »

Jim at Specialty Auto in Lincoln Nebraska?

dgh74
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Post by dgh74 »

Guys,

Thanks for the help.

I have a few more questions: Would you be more leery of a late model car with high mileage and maintenance done or an older car with low mileage but a dubious provenance?

I've got a lead on a 2007 with 185K-- but the owner's done the timing belt, cleaned the PCV system and performed regular maintenance.

Also, RE: the timing belt: How easy is it to inspect pre-purchase or is this just something that we have to take someone's word on . . . or trust the Continental sticker under the hood?

Devin

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