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volvo voo-doo doo-doo

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on all Volvo's "mid era" rear wheel drive Volvos.

1975 - 1993 240
1983 - 1992 740
1982 - 1991 760
1986 - 1991 780
1990 - 1998 940
1990 - 1998 960
1997 - 1998 V90/S90

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whale
Posts: 10
Joined: 23 May 2004
Year and Model:
Location: Kauai

Post by whale »

In response to ChrisJ - yes , kind of - what happens is it will start up in a greatly diminished manner - barely chugs - and will die if given any kind of gas goose....small or large...and that is that..

Jim Holst

Post by Jim Holst »

I don't recall the earlier posts so please forgive me if I repeat earlier suggestions. If this model has the Bosch fuel-ignition system, it will have an Air Mass Meter, AMM. If it does, jave you tried disconnecting the AMM and then try starting? I had a 240 which wouldn'r keep running but with the AMM disconnected the engine would start and idle but had little power. Don't connect or disconnect the AMM if the engine is running. In my case, I swapped in a known good AMM and the engine ran fine.

Have you looked in the oil filler opening while someone cranks the engine? You should see the camshaft turning unlress the T-belt has broken. I've heard of it jumping out of time when it gets really oil soaked and soft but that hasn't happened to me. You could pull back the top t-belt cover and have a look.

If you've disconnected the battery, I believe any trouble codes have been lost. Also the computer picks up on troubles over a certain time period and may not have recorded your problem if it happened quickly.

On my '93 940, there are 3 modes of reporting in the OBD-1. The first gives the trouble codes which you seem to have done. Mode 2 tests all the sensor signals ansd Mode 3 sends signals to operate the injectors, idle control valve, suppressor relay, and fuel pump. However, my car has the Regina system so yours may be different. You can try anyway:
Mode 1 - place small connector cable in socket 2 of the diagnostic connector, press the button for about 1 second, read code

ignition codes - put connector in socket 6 and press button for one second, read codes.

Mode 2 - Takes more time to type than I can do right now.

Mode 3 - Ignition ON, connector in socket 2, press button 3 times for one second each, listen for the activation of each thing I listed above.
Sorry I can't type it all in. Maybe you should check the 700/900 FAQ for more details. Got to go now.

spook

Post by spook »

Dear Whale,

Good a.m. and may this find you well. You should remove and inspect the RPM sensor.

It the black insulation sheath has deteriorated - if you can see the wires - replace it. These sometimes fail in "intermittent" mode: they work and then don't work, or they work consistently, but the signal is marginal, and so is performance.

I think Jim Holst has offered good advice as to looking at the camshaft (through the oil filler) to see whether nor not it's turning, as the engine is cranked, and inspecting the timing belt to see if it is dry (i.e., not oil-soaked).

You've done almost everything else, except pull/replace the engine control computer. Those do sometimes fail, but will generate codes.

Yours faithfully

spook

whale
Posts: 10
Joined: 23 May 2004
Year and Model:
Location: Kauai

Post by whale »

Greetings and thanks to all - spook and JimH -

Thanks for the speedy replies - they are certainly appreciated and a new tack to follow...

My timing belt is only some 4000miles old and peeking in on it shows it clean and dry - no one competent around today - I am withholding judgement on myself on that score! - to help check the camshaft although it seems not likely to have slipped because of oil, age etc. I was wondering though if had slipped out of alignment, would it cause this problem?

Great tip from Jim - thanks, I was unaware of the things you pointed out but will certainly try #3 on your list. According to Alann I also have a 93 Regina although when I break down the VIN# it says LH 2.4 - just one more bit of confusion in this suddenly never-ending summer project. However without the help of you great guys I wouldn't have had much of a clue. I will also check the AMM - when I find it.

The same applies to the help and tips of Spook - I have had suspicions about this RPM sensor deal - the wire to it looks clean and strong but you point out what lies beneath may be the most important thing - as in all pertinent things in life.

As soon as the rain lets up I am going to try and follow some of these tips.

Much aloha to you all.

Chrissij

Post by Chrissij »

The air mass meter is directly behind the air filter. From what I remember of your last post, since a Regina only has one pump, pulling the fuse for the pre pump would have meant "no start". I don't think you have a Regina car, but I could be wrong. You could let us all know that with a quickness, just look behind the air filter, if you have an electronic component ending with the numbers 016, you've got LH. If you have a funky black cylinder with one blue sensor on the side, you have a Regina. Since flooring it makes it run, you could be elevating the fuel to meet the air...meaning HUGE vacuum leak. Check the air inlet hose from the "component" behind the air filter box to the throttle body. Check all the other air and vacuum lines that branch from that one.

In answer to your other question, yes, jumped timing can make your car hard to start, and sluggish. Also, generally, the engine will "lope".

The usual crank sensor symptom is "no start", under any circumstances, but I've seen them cause a rough running, hesitation problem on occasion.

Rather hard to diagnose from here; wish I could help more.

Chris

whale
Posts: 10
Joined: 23 May 2004
Year and Model:
Location: Kauai

Post by whale »

Chris, I apologize for not giving you a shout-out and misspelling your name.

Those are great tips and I will follow up on it as soon as I can - family week-end obligations and a really nasty wet weather - the kind never mentioned by the Tourist Authority - make it a next week kinda deal...

I certainly want to get to the bottom of the LH?/Regina? thing and I will report my findings as soon as I am able.

Once again thanks to you and all for taking the time to help with this diagnosing...I certainly take all the suggestions seriously and I am certainly also learning my way 'round the sled!

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matthew1
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Post by matthew1 »

Whale, perhaps you have the very rare LH and Regina model, and Volvo will buy it back from you for a million dollars, and you will then be able to buy any new Volvo you desire.

;-)
Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.

Also -> Amazon link
. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!

1998 V70, no dash lights on

1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace

2004 V70 R [gone]

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Post by Guest »

Matthew1-

well that is refreshing news - i will check the setup tomorrow because today is Father's Day and without Father's Day, I just would'nt have any day at all.

By the way things look a lot like Seattle around here....except we only just got our first starbuck's....

whale
Posts: 10
Joined: 23 May 2004
Year and Model:
Location: Kauai

Post by whale »

Greetings,

Well I am ready for that million dollars!

Worked on the suggestions but all I got was dirty.

I checked the AMM -if it is that vacuum dispensing thing between the air filter and the front headlight -all the hoses were connected and seemed to be functioning and un -holy.

I searched for that component that ChrissiJ mentioned but I am humbled to say that I did not locate any to read the numbers off of - please, when you say behind the air filter, where exactly did you mean?

By the way it hasn't run by flooring it at all in this breakdown -just a sluggish and brief run when I pull #11.

I also checked the RPM sensor. The wire was supple with no breaks or exposed wires. The little pin part that makes contact with the engine was
there but seemed a bit "small" - I just don't have the experience to know if that qualifies it for replacement. My Chilton book shows the connection for the RPM sensor to have two connections but mine has 3.

I ran the test that Jim Holst mentioned and it seems like all the components were reponding and no error codes.

So I am back to head scratching. I guess I will hunt around for the component to find out what engine this is, if someone will give me a further clue as to what I am looking for actually.

I am guessing however that Matthew1 was pulling my leg. I hate to give up on it , we have owned the car since new and I have maintained it pretty well for 50K miles.

Nearest gas station is selling regular for $2.61 for quite a while now and hasn't moved down at all so that is a further incentive to get it running.

I also guess that I may have to pull the stuff off the engine and check the timing belt for alignment - not my real cup of tea, but there it is.
That will have to wait till the week-end.

In any case thanks again to everyone for their support - Maholo.

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