Small warning on those 18mm subframe bolts

Post by **oragex** » 16 Apr 2018, 17:27

Good to give them a check

Post by **June** » 16 Apr 2018, 18:19

Wow! That's scary! It so happens my S80 has been in the shop for nearly two weeks for a rear main seal leak and I insisted the bushings, washers, and bolts be replaced among a list of other things. Volvo insisted they never replaced any on a S80 before. Turns out two of the four bushings were bad. June

Post by **abscate** » 16 Apr 2018, 22:12

It’s got at least half it’s life left....

Scary Spice...

Post by **June** » 26 Apr 2018, 08:03

June wrote: ↑16 Apr 2018, 18:19 Wow! That's scary! It so happens my S80 has been in the shop for nearly two weeks for a rear main seal leak and I insisted the bushings, washers, and bolts be replaced among a list of other things. Volvo insisted they never replaced any on a S80 before. Turns out two of the four bushings were bad. June

Now that I finally got my car back yesterday I can report how important replacing the frame bushings actually is. By far it's the best money I have spent on my car. All the creaks, pops, rattling loose sounds on the interstate are gone. The car feels more Lincoln Town Carish as it did new. The harshness was slight but there, now the car really feels right. Also the pop in the floor from reverse to drive gone as well.

Last year I had every suspension part replaced from the rack, to the springs all blue Box genuine Volvo installed by my dealer and the original feeling and quietness just didn't come back until now! Frame bushings, who would have thought? June

Post by **abscate** » 26 Apr 2018, 08:17

Worth noting on these - if you remove them to check them, you have to replace them anyway. They are torque plus angle to a point where they are stretched, if I recall correctly.

To be confirmed here.

This is for my P80

Install new screws in the sub-frame with the washers and brackets.
Install the retaining screws holding the sub-frame brackets in the bodywork.
Tighten the sub-frame screws to 105 Nm (77.4 ft. lbs.) and angle-tighten to 120°.
Tighten the bracket screws to 50 Nm (36.9 ft. lbs.)

dlundblad · Post by **dlundblad** » 27 Apr 2018, 07:37

That right bolt almost looks like a manufacturing defect then. Looks like plastic deformation during a tensile test. Way over torqued.

77 ft lbs plus an additional 120* rotation right?

Post by **abscate** » 27 Apr 2018, 10:38

All data entry for P2 (my 2005) - note caution on doing Left Side first!

Lift the sub-frame up completely.
At the same time locate the mounting screws for the steering gear the sub-frame and, on right-hand drive cars, the screw for the collision protection system.
Install the sub-frame brackets loosely together with the washers.
Install the four screws for the sub-frame. Use new screws. Do not tighten yet.
First tighten the screws on the left side of the sub-frame. Tighten to 105 Nm . Angle tighten 120 degrees . Then tighten the right-hand side to the same values as the left side.
Finally tighten the screws for the brackets on both sides. Tighten to 50 Nm .
Install the engine block heater (if applicable) on the left front mounting for the subframe.
CAUTION: Tighten the left-hand side first. The sub-frame guides are on the left-hand side.