1999 v70t5M56 evap hose DIY 9443308 9443309

Post by **abscate** » 05 May 2018, 13:13

Does not apply to pre 1999 models, late in 1998 the Evap container was moved from driver fender to rear pass wheel area

Replaced both canister to shut off valve and shut off to tank hose today

Lots of tricks

Used genuine Volvo parts and Oetiker clamps on ends

More to come

Post by **abscate** » 05 May 2018, 13:17

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Post by **abscate** » 05 May 2018, 13:35

Testing on the canister shut off valve 9486016

Normally open , apply 12V to terminals , snaps closed and can’t blow through

Valve unloaded resistance measured at 16.3 Ohms

FCP shows figment from 1998-2004 p80 and P2

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 05 May 2018, 15:14

How much did this all cost the fun fund? I'm starting to get a check engine light for evap now that I have a life...

Post by **abscate** » 05 May 2018, 17:08

I drove over to Capital and got both hoses for $5 over the best internet price, had to pay tax of course, but was happy to support a business carrying 19 year old OEM parts on the shelf

$48 for the two hoses. OETTINGER ( these are the improved Oetiker clamp still that were invented for the heated third rear seat option wiring harness) clamps in my stock, I used the 20mm size. These were hard to fit and I would recommend the 23 mm.

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 05 May 2018, 17:14

abscate wrote: ↑05 May 2018, 17:08 I drove over to Capital and got both hoses for $5 over the best internet price, had to pay tax of course, but was happy to support a business carrying 19 year old OEM parts on the shelf

$48 for the two hoses. OETTINGER clamps in my stock, I used the 20mm size. These were hard to fit and I would recommend the 23 mm.

For you , wcm, you don’t need any

What about for the hoses? =p

What is Capital?

Post by **abscate** » 05 May 2018, 17:27

Capital Volvo on New Karner Road

Parts open 10-6 pm Saturday’s

Post by **erikv11** » 05 May 2018, 20:29

It's Oetiker.

Nice work!

Post by **abscate** » 06 May 2018, 02:02

But the OETTINGER’s are such a nice family

More stuff To spell correct

Post by **abscate** » 13 May 2018, 07:42

There is a trick to working with that rear mounted canister.

If you just loosen and remove the M10 (lots of PB and wire brush, its ugly under there) you can then just bend the tank and bracket down to access the ports, and skip removing the big ugly bolts holding up the muffler bracket. there is plenty of metal to support many cycles of bending before fatigue failure. The small bolt holding in the canister on mine, by the way, was headless from corrosion so I wasn't touching that puppy

You can see the bolt in the pictures above - remove, then pry the bracket forward with a large screwdriver to pop it off, then bend down.