All of a sudden she started making this loud knocking/tapping

[cn90]

- I understand that you put a "new" engine in, but the noise in the original post is consistent with lifters noise. In other words, the Sump needs to be dropped and the O-ring replaced, and the port (feeding the filters) needs cleaning too. Tons of photos on the internet about this issue of clogged oil port.


http://casestudies.atlanticmotorcar.com ... p-pick-up/

[sventastic]

Just as another data point, I'd be shocked if this wasn't rod knock and the OP doesn't find bearing in the pan. I had a nearly identical noise from my S70 T5, and when I dropped the pain it was very glittery. Unfortunately didn't have time to inspect the bearings before scrapping it, but it wouldn't have been pretty.

It started with this lighter ticking noise, then ended up turning into a knock

[shadetree_v70]

Cn90- the first thing I did was drop the pan to inspect for shavings and reseal the sump.

Sven- I never did find any metal in the pan, but something is knocking down there.

FCP sent me a new trans line and it sealed right up. I have no idea how the first one was defective but I don’t care, it doesn’t leak now. The only other hiccup was connecting the new heater hoses: no matter what combination of o rings and plastics, coolant still leaked. Ordered a coupler, now all is good. I guess 20 years of 209 degree coolant will turn plastic brittle

I took it for a couple easy loops in my neighborhood and overall it drives and runs fine, but the P/S chatters a bit. It never was unhooked but the res was laid sideways so there may be some bubbles to work out. All in all it was a success and now I’m looking forward to rebuilding the lower end of the motor I just pulled. Thanks to all for the input!

[scot850]

Good news you have a running car. Good place to be and hopefully it will now settle down.

Neil.

[shadetree_v70]

So it's been a couple weeks, and I'm happy to report that the replacement motor has loosened up and is running great, no leaks or funny noises or anything. I was concerned the first couple days about some ticking and squeaky noises, but I think the lifters needed to clear out and now they are quiet. The bad news is that a Trans leak has developed from the weep hole between the belhousing and the block. The axles seals are brand new, and I have carefully verified through wiping, watching, wiping watching, that the drip is in fact coming from the weep hole. And it's trans fluid not engine oil ( I installed a new RMS so I never thought it was oil anyway).

So my question to the smart folks who hopefully are reading this is, will this likely be the torque converter seal, input seal, or pump seal? My research has come up with "probably not the pump seal, as those rarely go bad". But the trans does have 336,000 miles on it. But it has also never leaked until this swap. I'm not confident in trying to tackle the pump seal, as it appears that I will be inside the trans, where I have no experience. The other 2 don't seem complicated at all. Any help and guidance is appreciated!

[abscate]

research here if people have used ATP 205 in the AT - worth a shot.

[shadetree_v70]

I did see that, after I purchased something called blue devil, which got far more good reviews than bad. The website says it takes 100-200 miles for it to start working, so today I took it for a nice drive in the country, and probably had to add 2 qts in the 65 miles I drove. It’s getting sling on to the bottom of the car, on the exhaust, there’s a film of fluid on the back window. I couldn’t stand it anymore and came home to start drinking the frustration away.

[shadetree_v70]

What really gets me is that I didn’t even think to do those seals when I had the damn thing off the motor. Rookie mistake.