What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 18 May 2018, 08:46

I've wanted to do my delta links, but since I don't know how long I'll be keeping the GLT, I'm not going to bother. Plus they look like a pain without the tool.
I'd like to try the delrin SF bushings on my R, but I think I'll just go with the iPd inserts because the bushings don't look too bad. I'll have the subframe down anyway for the manual swap, so I figured why not?

brunocerous · Post by **brunocerous** » 20 May 2018, 09:13

abscate wrote: ↑13 May 2018, 10:06 I put the stiff IPD HD springs on the back of my 99 at 160k and I love the ride. It is stiffer than most people like, I think.

My P2 is much more creampuffy

Nice! It handles nicely when fully loaded, be it with passengers or for trips to the home-improvement store. I was considering the iPD springs, plus the blue looks sweet, but opted to save a few bucks. Maybe I'll get them for the '98 V70 to compare. That's currently our creampuff!

erikv11 wrote: ↑14 May 2018, 08:53 I've got the IPD HD springs in the rear of my V70. They definitely improve the handling and make load carrying (including a car full of people) much easier. I ran them in the 850 before I got the V70. I would say the ride is slightly more jarring compared to stock.

I had an '09 Mini Cooper, which was incredibly jarring for any rear passengers, but lovely to drive on the super-twisty and shockingly narrow Jackie Robinson Parkway in Queens. I'm not sure they'll ever resemble each other, but at least I'll be reminded of my little sports car.

Post by **ZionXIX** » 20 May 2018, 10:14

Put the final touches on my timing belt job that included timing belt, serpentine belt, water pump, hydraulic tensioner, tensioner pulley and idler pulley. Maybe it's psychological but I swear she starts up easier and idles smoother now.

Post by **erikv11** » 20 May 2018, 21:56

Finished up an axle job+ on my 96 wagon: replaced all 4 CV boots (on each side, one boot was cracked and starting to throw grease), one control arm (found a split ball joint boot while I was in there), one front brake hose (the hose had several cracks) plus bled both front calipers. Drain-and-fill with 3.5 quarts DexIII while I was in there. Hopefully this will get me through the summer.

For the first time, I tried using an air hammer to release the CV joints. Not sure if it would have been easy or difficult the old fashioned way (strike a punch with a hammer) but the air hammer with pointy bit worked really well, on both axles the outer CV released within a few seconds.

Danonly55 · Post by **Danonly55** » 21 May 2018, 11:57

Went to the salvage yard today and showed the guy the leak in the fuel tank I bought from him { its still in the car }. He tells me im trying to scam him and the tank was fine when he sold it to me. The leak is at the top corner on the passenger side so I didnt find it until I filled up on Saturday night. I got home after filling up and could smell fuel. Its a very small seeping from a mold point on the tank. Im sure I can repair it. I asked him for a deal either give me half my money back or let me go pick some parts. So I went parts picking. I got a real nice arm rest for the console a cooling hose for the ECU a battery tie down an ashtray and a extra wheel.

I felt good when I left.

Now to figure out a repair for the tank in place now.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 21 May 2018, 14:53

Pulled my fuel pump AGAIN to check the seal. Lightly coated it with Vaseline and carefully put it back together. It also looks like the gas fumes have really gotten to the neck... it's slightly oblong now.
I also found interesting the size difference from the original seal (right) to the current/third seal (left). Maybe it's because it's gotten dry from sitting on the shelf for almost a year, but that seems weird.

Post by **Clemens** » 22 May 2018, 12:30

@danonly55.

Is the tank made of abs? I'd guess so. Try gluing it with jb weld or eben better, an abs glue, and then inve dry you could reinforce the area with fiberglass.

RooBah · Post by **RooBah** » 23 May 2018, 08:37

Re-bent the wiper arm castings.... now, about climb under it and check the canister CC line and if all of that is fine I will pull the battery and tray to check the CC lines. The actuator on the pedal is hooked up.
CC has been intermittent (shuts off after engaged for ~100 miles) and now is not working.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 23 May 2018, 08:39

Changed the oil in the GLT yesterday. Consumed a little over a quart, and I had added about 1/2 quart midway through the 5k mile interval.
It's amazing how well it runs on a full 6 quarts...

Post by **FLXC90** » 23 May 2018, 15:05

Installed the replacement receiver/drier and compressor to drier hose I've been lugging around for about 15 months now. Maybe this weekend I can restore functionality to the A/C.

What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

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