S60 2.5T oil filter install

mns6025t · Post by **mns6025t** » 29 May 2018, 06:57

I've seen the oil filter installed a few different ways on the 2.5L engine on the P2 volvos. I've made the assumption in the past that the filter snapped into the plastic cover, but I've seen people just set it into the cover, or push it onto the pipe on the bottom of the engine. Does it matter which way it gets installed? I wouldn't think it would but now I'm second guessing myself.

Post by **cn90** » 29 May 2018, 07:38

I usually install it in the cap first.
Then half- fill the cap with fresh oil.
I also lube the new O-Ring a bit.
I use only Mahle oil filter.

Post by **Rattnalle** » 29 May 2018, 07:52

I do the cup first as well. Mostly because it's convenient. I don't really think it makes a difference since it will be squashed in place anyway. Oil the o ring or it's a pain to get the cup back on.

mns6025t · Post by **mns6025t** » 29 May 2018, 18:23

That works fine for me, thanks for the advice everyone!

Post by **oragex** » 29 May 2018, 18:30

Been already debated and haven't heard of a consensus. Best is to do the test: install once on the engine, next time inside the cap. From what I remember if installed on the cap will be removed with the cap, if installed on the engine will stay on the engine.

As above, inside the cap is more convenient as I like too to fill the cap with the some fresh oil.

Just wish there was a design with a filter that doesn't spill used oil when it's removed

Post by **abscate** » 30 May 2018, 04:12

I push the filter up into the housing , then screw on the cap. I once cocked the filter in the cap,which didn’t seal and spent the day cleaning up a big mess off the driveway.

93SCMax · Post by **93SCMax** » 30 May 2018, 05:32

I do filter on engine housing also. After 17 years with this approach, it's never created a leak or any other problem. Not to say filter in cap is wrong, but filter on housing has always worked for me.

Five keys to a successful oil change: use good oil (Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic), a quality filter (OEM or Mahle), lube the new o-ring to avoid rolling it or cutting it, use a new drain plug washer, and don't overtighten the plastic cap or washer.

Cookie-the-Swede · Post by **Cookie-the-Swede** » 30 May 2018, 08:05

I put the oil filter on the motor, then screw on the plastic cap.

dlundblad · Post by **dlundblad** » 30 May 2018, 09:41

I also apply it to the engine side. The Mahle and Mann foam end caps are pretty tight fitting. Applying it to the tube on the engine side holds it square while the filter housing threads draw everything snug.

Cheaper filters with the felt washers probably could go on either way.

Post by **chrism** » 30 May 2018, 18:50

Mahle filters. Went to bed one night and they were $3.50 each. Woke up the next morning and they were $6.00.

I put the filter in the cup. That way I can tell how much oil I can safely pour into the cup. I pour the oil down the middle of the filter and give it several seconds to bleed out through the filter. Then I pour in some more, etc until the cup is like about 3/4 full. I purposely spill a bit of oil on the top of the filter (we’ll maybe not exactly on purpose) and wipe some off with my finger to smear on the O-ring and it’s mating surface in the engine. Then I screw the cup and filter into the engine. I screw the cup in until it just hits the hard stop and that’s it. No need to try and tighten any further since you aren’t going to compress the O-ring anyway. It’s compression is predetermined by the diameters of the cup and the casing cylinder.

5,000 miles later I unscrew the cup. “Usually” the filter wants to hang on the engine which adds to the dripage. So once the cup threads are fully unscrewed I rock it back and forth to knock the filter loose and allowing it to drop into the cup.