A/C System Refill Issues

Oka · Post by **Oka** » 03 Jun 2018, 02:03

: AutoAC.jpg (34.79 KiB) Viewed 1501 times

I am in the process of recharging my AC system. It's not that cold inside the car.
From the vent at full blast, I get 48F.

With car stationary and running in full blast, the compressor engages and disengages
in ten seconds intervals. When driving, it does not seem to engage and disengage.
Isn't the ten-second intervals abnormal; the intervals are also consistent while stationary.

I have AC/Pro refill cans. With my readings, I could not fill the system with the
refrigerant with UV so as to use the black light to search for possible leak. So, I do
not know if there is a leak somewhere.

Thanks in advance.

Post by **oragex** » 03 Jun 2018, 07:45

48 is not that bad? I think the standard is around 40

I also get the '10 seconds' on/off. I wish it would stay more on because on other cars the clutch is on for about 50sec then 10 sec off. If my clutch would stay for 50 seconds on, I would get a much colder air.
I'm guessing the first picture is with the clutch on, second with the clutch off. It's pretty much the numbers I get on mine and cabin air is the same 'not that cold'. I did remove the 134, then removed it, then added again, same. Either there is a leak, either there is a problem with some components. I will try a different evaporator temp sensor, could it be that it's faulty and it cuts the compressor too soon? This sensor needs to read the cold temperature and cut the compressor when it gets cold enough inside the dash. I'll try reading the resistance at the sensor see what are the values.

I think our system already has a dye in it, or at least the AC Pro has. Try with the uv light in the dark

Post by **oragex** » 03 Jun 2018, 09:59

Yet another test is to drive on a cooler day (60F) with the knobs at coolest but with the A/C off. Try feeling if the airflow has the same temperature as it's outside. Sometimes the flaps inside the dash may not fully close to hot air. Rotating both knobs from cold to heat then back to cold a few times may help, or the CCM may need recalibrated.

Also when using the automatic mode is good to make sure the cabin temp sensor is not covered with dust

Oka · Post by **Oka** » 03 Jun 2018, 10:53

oragex wrote: 03 Jun 2018, 07:45 I'm guessing the first picture is with the clutch on, second with the clutch off.

Nope, just as in the pictures. Left - clutch off and Right - clutch on.

oragex wrote: 03 Jun 2018, 07:45 I think our system already has a dye in it, or at least the AC Pro has. Try with the uv light in the dark

I used the "Black" light (from Lowes). However, this Volvo's lines are kinda hidden
or tucked inside. I ran the light through the much I could see. Don't know if the system
already has UV in it. I have an A/C Pro can refrigirant with UV but can't put it in since my guage reads well.

Oka · Post by **Oka** » 03 Jun 2018, 11:23

oragex wrote: 03 Jun 2018, 09:59 Yet another test is to drive on a cooler day (60F) with the knobs at coolest but with the A/C off. Try feeling if the airflow has the same temperature as it's outside.

First off, ". . . cooler day (60F)"? Wow, that's luxury for us in Anchorage. We kinda passed the '60' mark yesterday. At the store, I thought some women forgot to put on clothes before coming to the store. On that note, 60 is kinda hot for us which is why I started using the AC already. Yes, with this test, the outside air is the same as the inside air when I tried it.

oragex wrote: 03 Jun 2018, 09:59 Also when using the automatic mode is good to make sure the cabin temp sensor is not covered with dust

Have had the car for less than two years now and have only used the Auto Mode about three times and for not more than two minutes each time. Just curious, does the cabin temp sensor have any bearing to the control of the A/C input?

Post by **abscate** » 03 Jun 2018, 14:55

What Is the outside temp like? If it’s 88 F and you are getting 40F delta equilibrated any messing with the system you will do will probably make it worse.

Post by **oragex** » 03 Jun 2018, 15:32

Good question about the sensor. I think in manual mode with the knobs to full cold, the flap over heater is closed which will lets only air from the A/C evaporator (whether the A/C is on or not).

Never mind what I've wrote before, I guess on my car the A/C doesn't work normally either.

Here's a video quite detailed which explains at about 7:00 how the system should work properly

Also good to run the A/C in winter. I don't like doing so but the seals dry up and start leaking with no use. Downside is running it in winter will cause mildew to build up on the evaporator (unless the computer is set to run the cabin blower after the engine is shut off).

MDK · Post by **MDK** » 03 Jun 2018, 18:25

MDK here.. I'm wondering what model you all are trying to charge. I have an 2004 S60 R and the charging port goes directly to the condenser so the fitting I'm using is too small. ..Hidden accumulator? Still looking for the suction line port ( low side) ...any advice would be helpful

Post by **abscate** » 03 Jun 2018, 18:51

You need to be above 35F to get the AC compressor to run, so run it on those warmer days

Post by **oragex** » 03 Jun 2018, 19:55

MDK wrote: 03 Jun 2018, 18:25 MDK here.. I'm wondering what model you all are trying to charge. I have an 2004 S60 R and the charging port goes directly to the condenser so the fitting I'm using is too small. ..Hidden accumulator? Still looking for the suction line port ( low side) ...any advice would be helpful

With those refill bottles we always use the low side port, its located under the coolant reservoir. Only Volvo will use the high pressure port (near the hood locks) with their special machines. The bottle would explode if someone would manage to connect it to the high pressure side.