cooling system help needed. Stuck at work.

[FlyingVolvo]

Sounds good. Just keep a close eye on things. I'd do a through leak check and possibly replace the cap. After years of heat and pressure, it's common for them to develop hairline cracks.

As others have pointed out, if you ever noticed boiling or steam again, that's a big red flag, shutdown immediately. These engines are solid and reliable, but do not last long when overheated.

[jinxd12]

I understand that 100% but....the temp gauge didn't fluctuate at all. But I get that at that point something was amiss.

I actually ordered a new cap, and bottle from Autohause Az, excellent prices over there.

[tryingbe]

The temp gauge tells you COLD, WARM, or HOT. Actually, if the water is not in the system anymore because it boiled over due to no cap, temperature gauge will probably still point to warm.

I installed my own gauge.

[RickHaleParker]

the temp gauge didn't fluctuate at all

The coolant can boil at normal operating temperature IF the pressure is reduced.

The boiling point of water is a function of pressure. The reason the coolant system is pressurized is to raise the boiling point above 100°C (212°F) so it will not boil. The boiling point goes up as the pressure goes up and vice versa. Not tightening the cap lowers the system pressure and therefore the lowers the boiling point of the water.


I say just run it but keep some premixed antifreeze in the trunk just in case.

[jinxd12]

That gauge looks sweet, but I couldn't do that in this car, I terior is to nice to just go and add stuff.

I am keeping a bottle of the G48 in the trunk for occasional top off if needed! I will keep everyone posted on this issue through out the next few hot days, so we can check the thread off as figured out!