Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures

[precopster]

Oil change reminder light can be reset by use of trip meter and key......just Google it.

Vida/Dice system or a good OBDII scanner such as Carsoft i906 or an Autel AL619 will reset the airbag system...better do it if you want the safety that a Volvo offers

Vida/Dice can do both the above operations

[LiThiuMElectro]

Yeah I was really on the fence of getting a vida/dice but I would had need the unit + a laptop. I know its the ideal situation for a volvo, I got a OBDII it delete codes but I don't think it reset the airbags or it reset it and the thing comes back :S

[precopster]

Unless your scanner can actually view SRS codes during reading of the vehicle it won't be attempting to clear them either.

[ant33]

Hi,
I have carried out this repair using a sacer unit after having ECM-91B7 and ECM-9150 codes from the car. I also had 'engine system service required' message on the dash.

Long story short- after much messing about changing car battery and taking the throttle apart again to calibrate, all codes are gone and the car runs ok. However, I have noticed when the car starts on a cold engine, the revs are slow to return to tick over. For example, if I put my foot on the accelerator and take the car up to say 3000 rpm and then take my foot off the accelerator, the car will stay there for a few seconds before slowly returning to tick over.

I only calibrated the throttle yesterday and am wondering if it takes a little time for the unit to settle in. Your thoughts and suggestions eould be appreciated.

Thanks

[bollin]

Hello
I have a weird problem after replacing TPS with sacer. First time I didn´t check voltages, and the ran very badly. So I opened it up again and adjusted voltages. I set it to 1.3V Sacer end with 1.296V on sensor 1 and the black lead showed some 0.03V higher than sacer voltage.I glued everything back up and tested, worked fine for about 15 minutes then suddenly it started running badly again and fault code ETM-9150 (sensor 1).
I opened it up once again and adjusted the voltage to 5 mV from value at original sensor, put it on the car and tested it and it ran great! glued everything back up, used the car normally and after about 4 shorter trips (about 15 minutes each and up to an hour in between trips) It started running badly again.
I tested the ETM with VIDA, and first it reported only a difference of 0.37 degrees, but I ran it again right after and this time there is a difference of 76.04 degrees.
Anybody experienced anything like this? I am 99% sure the solder joints are good (I do occasionally repair pcb:s so I have got a quality soldering Iron and know how to use it)
I just can´t seem to figure it out. Is the black wire bad? or is the magnet bad? Could it be weakened by heat? Bad board?
I have another salvaged ETM that I will put in to see if I can get it running while I repair the contactless one.

[precopster]

I should have answered this 9 months ago but here goes: Sensor 1 is the 5 pin side of the throttle.

Sometimes the board receives input from 2 very good contact sensors (or a Sacer Hall sensor) yet fails to process one of the signals into a definable throttle angle. In this case it will report 108 degrees on the faulty side. This is view-able in Vida under throttle Position sensor 1 and throttle position sensor 2 in ECM-Parameters.

Many throttles have a failing driver on the processing board that is fine when cold and after a few minutes shuts down. It will often output both sensors fine for a few minutes and then suddenly shut down output from one of the sensors. It will then give either a ECM-9150 or ECM-9160 code.

All the more reason the Sacer sensor repair is becoming almost useless as the throttles age and other problems in them surface. Best to check the throttle angles both at cold and after 10-15 minutes of engine running with Vida to ensure that the throttle is processing both TP 1 and 2 sensors. A generic scanner won't show both TPS positions.

[desteris]

Hello ,
Long story short: One day I was driving my car when suddenly it went to a limp mode and started shaking horribly. The "ETS" and "Check engine" lights instantly showed up on my dashboard. After shutting off and turning on the car again both lights disappeared and car was idling normally. After that incident nothing similar had happened( 2 - 3 weeks). I knew about the "famous" MM and unfortunately my car had one. So after doing a little bit of research( I mean I read this thread like 3 times) I decided to change one of the sensors. So I changed the original TPS with new contactless SACER sensor and it was success. The car started fine and was running like new apart from rpm jumping from 800 to 840. I took the car for a test drive and it was running great but after 20-25 min the car rpms dropped and it went into a limp mode. I tried to shutting of and on the engine but that didn't helped the car also had problem with starting( 3-4 time till engine starts). After an 1-2 hours I decided to start the engine again because this time I had Vida Dice with me and surprise surprise the car started and was running fine again. While the car was idling I snapped some pictures of the ETM position sensors also Vida didn't showed any fault codes. (right now I don't have pictures so I just write down all parameters)
ETM sensor, potentiometer 1 : ~17°
ETM sensor, potentiometer 2 : ~17°
Aprox. 20 min later car again went into a limp mode. this time potentiometers showed different readings.(both stuck):
ETM sensor, potentiometer 1 : 108.19°
ETM sensor, potentiometer 2 : 108.19°
And this time Vida showed these fault codes: ECM-903C, ECM-903F, ECM-9150, ECM-9160, IMM-321. I assume this is happening because of the heat but I don't know if I did something wrong while changing sensor or just my ETM time has come. If anybody still reading this thread it would be nice if you could tell me what those code combinations mean. Do I need new ETM? it's just faulty sensor? or it's something different at all? Thanks.

[Littlepug4ever]

First time I had the problem, changed SACER and the car was fine for some time but then started to act again.

User Precopster, after posting vida codes (somewhere up in this thread), told me that my codes meant ETM failure, not just sensor, so I ordered an used one from ebay and swapped SACER to it... This was 2016 I think... It has been running flawlessly ever since...

[precopster]

If throttle angles read 108 degrees the ETM is a brick, go build a house with it!!

Get another!!

[firstv70volvo]

Hi Yehuda,

I’ve also spent far too many hours attempting to fix the Magneti Marelli ETM and finally did have some success. I’ve been using the repaired ETM for more than 5,000 miles now. I used an off-the-shelf Vishay throttle position sensor and modified the housing and ETM side plate to make it work.

After studying this ETM for some time now I can say any do-it-yourself fixes have to been done with 100% reliability in mind. This is definitely not a simple do-it-yourself repair job. The ETM is a crucial safety component and while many criticize the original ETM design it does have complete redundancy with two independent throttle position sensors. From what I’ve read if one sensor signal is lost there will be reduced performance but if both throttle position sensors signals are lost or corrupted the throttle drive motor shuts down completely and there is very limited power (fast idle) and no throttle control.

Replacing the original sensors with a non-contact type does improve the reliability of the sensor a great deal because there’s nothing to wear but if the non-contact electronic sensor were to fail it would be the equivalent of having no valid throttle position signal and the throttle drive motor would shut down. From what I’ve learned and what I’ve seen with other non-contact sensor repairs, the sensor can only be placed on the side opposite the drive motor due to magnetic interference of the motor affecting the sensor . One non-contact sensor can have dual outputs and dual sensors in one package to improve reliability but it’s still not full redundancy with a single power source and wiring. My opinion (for what it’s worth) is a high quality automotive grade non-contact electronic sensor (like the Vishay sensor) is as reliable as all the other electronics in the ETM, which also doesn’t have full redundancy. Let us know how things go when you get the new Sacer parts. If you have any questions with the repair I may be able to help with some aspects of it so let me know.

Vishay Sensor Retrofit.jpg

It's been 11 years since I put a Vishay sensor on my Magneti Marelli ETM (2001 Volvo V70) and after more than 100K miles it's still working perfectly. While cleaning out my garage I came across a couple of MM ETMs I purchased for cheap at the salvage yard years ago and decided to do a few improvements on the Vishay sensor retrofit project. This is just a project for me and isn't meant to be a DIY repair, for crucial safety reasons use the professional repair service offered by Xemodex for these ETMs.

The project improvements I've been working on is using a more compatible version of the Vishay sensor for the D shaft used in the ETM. I custom ordered the Vishay sensors from DigiKey and purchased a 90 degree CW 8mm hollow D shaft version of the sensor. I also fabricated a new aluminum side plate and a 6.5mm to 8mm shaft adapter. The MM ETM has a 6.5mm shaft and the Vishay sensor only has an 8mm D shaft version of the part.

Update 5/9/22
Removed original vishay retrofit ETM after 11 years and 102K miles (and still working fine) to try out new version. New version with new side plate, custom fit Vishay sensor and shaft adapter working well, Vishay 981HE sensors work very well with MM ETM electronics.

original vishay retrofit 11 years 102K miles later working well.jpg (226.83 KiB) Viewed 4840 times

new version now in car and working well

almost done.jpg (172.32 KiB) Viewed 4870 times

prior work on new retrofit version
Haven't completely finished yet but with new side plate this is a better version of the original project.

almost done.jpg (172.32 KiB) Viewed 4870 times

new cap sealed.jpg (181.49 KiB) Viewed 4870 times

vishay sensor wired to ETM and voltage adjusted.jpg (228.89 KiB) Viewed 4873 times

vishay 8MM hollow D shaft 90 degree CW with new side plate.jpg (235.67 KiB) Viewed 4907 times

vishay 8MM hollow D shaft and 6.5mm to 8mm adapter on ETM shaf IIt .jpg (162.98 KiB) Viewed 4907 times

vishay 90 degree CW 8MM hollow D shaft 981HE1B1WA8H01.jpg (200.75 KiB) Viewed 4907 times