95 850 glt

Lineman1954 · Post by **Lineman1954** » 17 Jul 2018, 16:27

Thanks to all who help here on this forum. I believe the motor mount that is bolted to the steering rack is in question, it wiggles to and fro- but does not lift off the base... (base being the steering rack) the bottom of the mount is tight, and neither of the braided wires are broken.... is this supposed to be as firm as the front mount ? the front is very firm, looks newer than the rear mount ... anyone ?

Post by **SuperHerman** » 17 Jul 2018, 16:57

It should move, but they get old and no longer do their job correctly. It should be firm like the others. If they are original it is most likely shot. Have a friend start the car, foot on brake, gear in D, and the hood up - look to see how much the engine is shifting when placed in D and then with a bit of rpm.

MDK · Post by **MDK** » 17 Jul 2018, 17:34

Hey...MDK here. I read your post and....no, it's not supposed to move. These mounts have a hydraulic fluid in them and last year I replaced the engine mount your describing. It took me about 20 to change it myself. RockAuto ..26$ is the cheapest I could find.... I think they are 17/19 mm socket...mmm I usually get a jack with a 2x6 piece of wood and put it under the oil pan.... Loosen bolts, jack it up and pull it out and put in the new one l bolt up the bottom one first and then let the jack down. Hope this helps....

Lineman1954 · Post by **Lineman1954** » 17 Jul 2018, 17:57

Super herman and MDK, shes a leaker, some wine colored fluid oozed out, Replacement on tap, Thanks to both of you !

MDK · Post by **MDK** » 18 Jul 2018, 07:48

Ok...so...MDK here again. There is a motor mount just under the crank shaft pulley. Unbolt the 2 bolts from the frame.... you won't get the clearance you'll need to replace the rear mounts unless you do that first...FYI. you need to pull passenger side wheel and pull back inner fender well to see it....well.... maybe

Post by **scot850** » 18 Jul 2018, 08:41

More importantly. be careful how much you raise the engine as it is possible to damage the LH axle if raised too far. Volvo has a limit for that height but don't have the info to hand.

Also note there is a tab on the top of the rear cone mount that has to align with a hole in the top mounting plate or it will not seat.

Neil.

Lineman1954 · Post by **Lineman1954** » 18 Jul 2018, 08:54

Scott and MDK, thank you both, the engine and trans is on 6x6 blocks out of the car, had it reinstalled the 2nd time after the new RMS leaked, put it in and the fork somehow de-coupled from the throw out bearing....im able to yank that thing in 2 hours now- im going to change that mount under the balancer also, its about squashed.... t

Post by **SuperHerman** » 18 Jul 2018, 10:38

If you are going to keep the car - shop for an OEM part. They last longer and are well suited for the car. I have had little luck with off brand suspension parts - some failing after 5k miles. Change every engine mount at the same time unless some are fairly new. Right now it is really easy.

Although you have amazing skills to get the engine/tranny out in 2 hours - pulling always causes some other issue especially in an older car. Wiring harness connectors, hose seals, disturbed suspension and alignment all come into play.

The general procedure for doing engine mounts (I have done it on two other Volvos but not your model) is to hang the engine, disconnect all the mounts, lower the subframe as required, and raise the engine slightly as needed (I don't recall if the power steering rack also needs to be loosened as well as some fuel/oil lines and the front wiring harness) (I added this for future readers).

The mount is rubber and oil filled with some movement built in - that is why it is not a solid metal mounting point. Yours is shot as it leaks.

I am still impressed by your ability to pull the engine/tranny so quickly. Good luck.

Post by **scot850** » 18 Jul 2018, 11:54

If the engine is out then as SuperHerman says, time to take the opportunity to swap the motor mounts. Use OE ideally as they last longer or possibly Hutchinson if cash it tight. OE is best for the crank mount as it takes a lot of load.

Neil.

Lineman1954 · Post by **Lineman1954** » 18 Jul 2018, 13:49

you gentlemen are refreshing with the compliments, knowledge and encouragement... and 2 hrs is because I have a 2 post lift, but you will after the third pass know the location of these connections pretty quickly, the air conditioner pump is the biggest time eater.