Drove to get some dinner tonight and the poor volvo wont start. I'll include a video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlRd9A_CU4E
Yesterday I needed to get some gas at a 10% ethanol station. Only put 6 gallons in. Drove perfectly, ate dinner for about an hour then... nothing.
about a month or so ago i changed out the fuel filter. I have vida/dice and will pull codes in the morning to know where to really start. Just needed some of your opinions.
Check engine light came on, when I tried to start it. I'll get the vida info as soon as i hook it up.
08 3.2 AWD Cransk but no start (Video included) Topic is solved
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jimmy57
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That video doesn't give much to go on except that the short duration cranking would never come close to starting a flooded engine and will actually make the flooding worse if that is the problem. The end of the second set of start attempts sounds like a flooded engine maybe getting ready to run. Or if it is a fuel pump fault and it is vapor locked it would sound much the same.
You can crank it over for 25-30 seconds or longer at a time. Every time you cycle key and try again the ECM goes through an initial fueling cycle by holding injectors open a little longer on each cycle for 2 or 3 cycles. Each of the start attempts would therefore add to the problem of a flooded engine. If it is vapor locked then the only way it will start is to crank it over enough revs so the injectors go through enough cycles to burp the vapor out so liquid fuel get to injectors and they will dispense enough fuel to let engine run. If someone cranks it over and you get close enough to tailpipe to smell the exhaust you may smell raw gasoline indicating it is likely flooded. If there is no odor then it is vapor locked. IF flooded hold pedal to floor while cranking to open throttle and dilute the flooded condition with more air.
The initial start attempts do not show tachometer activity but for shorter cranking tries the tachometer will not always be active until engine goes 4 complete revolutions and it probably didn't spin over that long.
You can crank it over for 25-30 seconds or longer at a time. Every time you cycle key and try again the ECM goes through an initial fueling cycle by holding injectors open a little longer on each cycle for 2 or 3 cycles. Each of the start attempts would therefore add to the problem of a flooded engine. If it is vapor locked then the only way it will start is to crank it over enough revs so the injectors go through enough cycles to burp the vapor out so liquid fuel get to injectors and they will dispense enough fuel to let engine run. If someone cranks it over and you get close enough to tailpipe to smell the exhaust you may smell raw gasoline indicating it is likely flooded. If there is no odor then it is vapor locked. IF flooded hold pedal to floor while cranking to open throttle and dilute the flooded condition with more air.
The initial start attempts do not show tachometer activity but for shorter cranking tries the tachometer will not always be active until engine goes 4 complete revolutions and it probably didn't spin over that long.
- dandan
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So I attached my dice unit and booted vida. I'm probably using it wrong but i'm not getting any error codes the seem to be related this.
ECM code "ECM-P15B68 Idle Speed Control - RPM Lower Then Expected - Algorithm Based Failures"
was found but disappeared when I inevitably drained the battery from trying to start the car over and over. The codes cleared, but I couldnt start the car to trigger any operating DTCs. I disconnected the battery fully before charging it, I am currently slowly draining the fuel tank by going out to the vehicle and turning the key to engage fuel pump and pump a few cups into a gas can. I'm guessing that means fuel pump is good/decent enough. Any ideas to get the fuel out faster? I'm draining then putting in 100% 91 gas. I've only put 100% 91 in until two days ago when i went to a sketchy gas station and got 10% 91 ethanol gas in an area where no one buys 91 gas. Its the only changed variable I chase it until proven wrong haha, with out definite codes i'm not sure how to proceed
I had some other random codes like camera modules and a speakers...
Is there a good way to test coils? should I wait until I get 100% gas in the vehicle then start moving around coils and pulling the injectors?
ECM code "ECM-P15B68 Idle Speed Control - RPM Lower Then Expected - Algorithm Based Failures"
was found but disappeared when I inevitably drained the battery from trying to start the car over and over. The codes cleared, but I couldnt start the car to trigger any operating DTCs. I disconnected the battery fully before charging it, I am currently slowly draining the fuel tank by going out to the vehicle and turning the key to engage fuel pump and pump a few cups into a gas can. I'm guessing that means fuel pump is good/decent enough. Any ideas to get the fuel out faster? I'm draining then putting in 100% 91 gas. I've only put 100% 91 in until two days ago when i went to a sketchy gas station and got 10% 91 ethanol gas in an area where no one buys 91 gas. Its the only changed variable I chase it until proven wrong haha, with out definite codes i'm not sure how to proceed
I had some other random codes like camera modules and a speakers...
Is there a good way to test coils? should I wait until I get 100% gas in the vehicle then start moving around coils and pulling the injectors?
- dandan
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Tried starting it again today, just sits and cranks wont start or show signs of starting. feels like its not getting spark. if it were just a coil it would start but be very rough?? (had a coil go out on an S80) I guess the dice unit and vida wont read check engine light codes? maybe need to get a regular obdII reader. I'm just not sure where i can start throwing money at this thing.
- dandan
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I ordered one of those goofy bluetooth obd readers, unless there is a way to read the check engine light code with vida/dice... I know where to go to read DTCs but not sure about the "standard" obd info. any vida tips?
I went ahead and ordered a fuel pressure sensor from IPD and some new fuel injector seals. i'll be removing them because, well, I don't know. I figure this is a fuel/air/spark issue at this point since vida came up dry. I may try calling a indie shop, hell I may call the local dealer.
I'm not exactly sure how to assess or deal with vapor lock, its a dead cold fuel injected engine so i'm not sure how any fuel could be boiling or flooding. But i'm not sure about a lot of things. I've attempted several times starting the vehicle with it floored/0%/50% and absolutely no response. I still have the same response even if I pump the pedel, nothing. I can't even get it to respond like it did at the end of the video.
I think I have to get it to run to really get the true codes. When I try and crank it, the timing of crank is just like in the video. The car stops cranking automatically, it cranks for 5-6 seconds then pauses. If you hold the key down it still pauses, cranks, pauses, cranks indefinitely until I have to charge up the battery again. So it won't let me crank for 30+ seconds.
I went ahead and ordered a fuel pressure sensor from IPD and some new fuel injector seals. i'll be removing them because, well, I don't know. I figure this is a fuel/air/spark issue at this point since vida came up dry. I may try calling a indie shop, hell I may call the local dealer.
I'm not exactly sure how to assess or deal with vapor lock, its a dead cold fuel injected engine so i'm not sure how any fuel could be boiling or flooding. But i'm not sure about a lot of things. I've attempted several times starting the vehicle with it floored/0%/50% and absolutely no response. I still have the same response even if I pump the pedel, nothing. I can't even get it to respond like it did at the end of the video.
I think I have to get it to run to really get the true codes. When I try and crank it, the timing of crank is just like in the video. The car stops cranking automatically, it cranks for 5-6 seconds then pauses. If you hold the key down it still pauses, cranks, pauses, cranks indefinitely until I have to charge up the battery again. So it won't let me crank for 30+ seconds.
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jimmy57
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Time to pull a coil and then a spark plug. You will see if it is flooded by plug inspection and then you can put the plug in coil and set the thread end of plug o some bare metal of cylinder head and crank it over to see if you have spark. Fuel rail has a test port on passenger end but it is a female schrader valve deal. You can depress it with some wire bent to 90 degrees. The port will have a Torx head plastic cover on it (TX25). if you do one crank attempt and then depress the "inny" schrader valve pin you should get a fuel spray out of the port if pump is working.
- dandan
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Just hooked up the generic obd reader and got a P0365 code "generic Camshaft Position Sensor 'B' Circuit Bank 1" code... I'm going to check this in vida, anyone know which one this is? Its my understanding there are two.
- dandan
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I received one camshaft position sensor and am getting a little activity on the tach when I attempt to start, I ordered another one to replace the second one. I'll keep updating so others may know what to do and what not to do.
- RickHaleParker
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Did you check for a fuel problem? A three second shot of Ether to see it will hit?
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1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
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