Volvo S60 weird "stall"

[EdwinS60]

Was using Car scanner app. Had bought torque pro but car scanner had more features. Will download it again.


Wouldn't battery problems cause me a complete stall and i wouldn't be able to drive on?

Also mechanic that was fixing turbo said that its geometry is stuck (will add pic of how it should look like, not sure thats how its called in english, not my pic). He moved it a bit, ran around in high revs, and it started working, had loud turbo whistle before and it got much better. Today i think it was again stuck, again louder. He said i need to do full turbo clean (160eur), could that be the case?

[jimmy57]

With engine running measure voltage between the post behind engine fuse box where the + cables join and a green wire at any one of the fuel injectors. Slide a paper clip wire or a pin into the rubber seal at the injector connector 5-7 mm and you will feel the metal terminal and can use this as probe without damage to wire or connector. The voltage drop test here should be less than 0.3 volt. If the voltage is higher then tap the system relay for fuel system in that fuse box and see if changes. Your problem description is like what I have seen when that relay has a solder connection crack. Replacing relay fixes it but the volt drop test will allow you to do more than guess and throw parts at the problem.

[EdwinS60]

With engine running measure voltage between the post behind engine fuse box where the + cables join and a green wire at any one of the fuel injectors. Slide a paper clip wire or a pin into the rubber seal at the injector connector 5-7 mm and you will feel the metal terminal and can use this as probe without damage to wire or connector. The voltage drop test here should be less than 0.3 volt. If the voltage is higher then tap the system relay for fuel system in that fuse box and see if changes. Your problem description is like what I have seen when that relay has a solder connection crack. Replacing relay fixes it but the volt drop test will allow you to do more than guess and throw parts at the problem.

Maybe this test has a name? I could look up a video tutorial or something with pics. Don't want to f**k things up. Do i need a multimeter for that?

[jimmy57]

Voltage drop test. Digital voltmeter is best. Any power supply circuit using relays as the switch should have no more than 0.5 volts. Less is better. Relays have switch contacts and the metal contacts can get burnt surface that lessens the ability to flow current. The rely will often have soldered connections inside most all electronics can have issues with solder cracking and that results in intermittent disconnects and eventually full failure. The voltage drop through relay will get higher before there is ever any noticed problem. The V drop test can be down anywhere accessible. You could probe with voltmeter between the + post at that fuse box to the fuse for coils, injectors, or other fuel system components and see the voltage drop of relay. More distance between check points will check more connection and parts. Polarity of leads on a digital meter does not matter for this test. The important part is that any voltage drop testing be done with the circuit active as this is a test checking the function of the circuit in action.

[EdwinS60]

Voltage drop test. Digital voltmeter is best. Any power supply circuit using relays as the switch should have no more than 0.5 volts. Less is better. Relays have switch contacts and the metal contacts can get burnt surface that lessens the ability to flow current. The rely will often have soldered connections inside most all electronics can have issues with solder cracking and that results in intermittent disconnects and eventually full failure. The voltage drop through relay will get higher before there is ever any noticed problem. The V drop test can be down anywhere accessible. You could probe with voltmeter between the + post at that fuse box to the fuse for coils, injectors, or other fuel system components and see the voltage drop of relay. More distance between check points will check more connection and parts. Polarity of leads on a digital meter does not matter for this test. The important part is that any voltage drop testing be done with the circuit active as this is a test checking the function of the circuit in action.

Thank you, very informative. Will try on monday. By the way, on the way home (25km) everything was okay. Not a single error.

[EdwinS60]

Hey guys, update on this topic. I have captured this in a video for you to better see. Altho it happened at the worst moment when sun was hitting my phone camera.

It goes like that, while driving, Engine light, all lights, engine light in one sec and you continue on driving.

Revs drop down and then you're ok.
No error codes



It didn't happen in like a month, happened once today and I knew that it would happen again so i started recording

[EdwinS60]

Update for anyone that have been wondering, couldnt find the problem, sold it

[cn90]

- I appreciate you post a follow-up to the solution.

- At least you solved the problem LOL.

[mrbrian200]

Even though the car is sold... That looks like a bad relay to me. Probably the engine management relay under the hood or the main relay inside the CEM. Or a problem with the ignition switch (electrical part).
I also recall a bad alternator on a previous car years ago that would randomly arc/spike/short the electrical system (I don't know for sure what it was doing, the issue away with a new alternator, the old alt was turned in as a core) which would kill the engine momentarily. It was a Bosch alternator/Bosch engine management system on a fuel injected car, circa 1987 model year.