Justanotherhumanoid's 2006 S60 2.5T AWD Build Log Topic is solved

Post by **justanotherhumanoid** » 19 Sep 2018, 00:13

1-week Maintenance/Upgrade Plan for 2006 S60 2.5T AWD (Stage Zero to II)

Hey all, had to park my new-to-me S60 2.5T AWD (~95k miles with the B5254T2 engine) for a bit and leave the country, but that's given me plenty of time to plan repairs and upgrades, wait for sales to buy parts, and map out everything for efficiency. Figured I'd post my plan here and solicit recommendations/tips/tricks, suggestions, etc. from you fine folk.

I'm not very good with cars, though ironically have a masters in mech engineering, which I would think would help me out but seems to mostly make me overthink **** and spend ages researching and doing what probably should be simple jobs, then Fing them up anyway. Anyway I've got time to research things now before I dive in, so I figure this is my chance to finally learn something about cars and get over the intimidation I've always felt when it comes to working on them. Also some of this will likely be useful to others planning their own Stage Zeroes, and my plan is to dyno the car before stage zero, after stage zero, and after stage II.

Before reading further I recommend you grab a cup of coffee or a beer and find a good chair:

Before starting: Get VIDA/DICE and an ODBII reader. Get a ceiling-mount compressor and impact wrench. Get a set of TORX bits up to #60, a >10" wobble head extension, a set of those fancy ratcheting metric socket wrenches, and six-pack of Guinness (for me), a six-pack of cider (for my dad).

Day 1:

Dyno the car to establish a baseline.

Replace PCV System (also need to replace intake manifold gasket): OEM kit from IPD Volvo ($361.95):
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/4991/11 ... JoQAvD_BwE OR Dealer Part Price $195

Using this video on PCV replacement from FCP Euro:

While PCV is mostly out and intake manifold is off:

Replace ETM: with this OEM Bosch one from Amazon ($205) AND add IPD phenolic throttle spacer ($50) OR Clean for $5 w/ throttle cleaner from autozone?
https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Original-E ... B00BJJ9OI0 AND https://www.ipdusa.com/products/10377/1 ... ody-spacer

Drain coolant (for purpose of both radiator and water pump replacement).

Replace Radiator: Upgrade to All-Aluminum do88 Radiator ($470 ) OR OEM Replacement from IPD Volvo ($315) OR Dealer Part Price ($396)
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/16446/1 ... ansmission

Using this Intercooler replacement guide from IPD (link below) (also requires removing the radiator, so is kind of a guide to both... also the video below:
https://www.ipdusa.com/files/product/55 ... MATION.PDF

While replacing Radiator:

Upgrade to IPD Intercooler ($575): https://www.ipdusa.com/products/12145/1 ... 0-xc70-s80

Upgrade to silicone hoses where possible:
Silicone Radiator Hoses ($140): https://www.ipdusa.com/products/9205/12 ... 0-v70-xc70
Silicone Turbo Coolant Hose Kit ($20): https://www.ipdusa.com/products/10085/1 ... e-kit-blue
Expansion Tank Hose Kit ($50): https://www.ipdusa.com/products/12166/1 ... 0-xc70-s80

Replace brake vacuum pump switch: from FCPeuro ($63): https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 25#reviews or if that doesn't work, New vacuum pump from fcpeuro: $130 (to fix weak braking action that occurs only within first 30 seconds after cold start).

Don't refill the coolant or start the car yet. Drink beverages if all is well so far.

Day 2:

Replace Timing Belt, idler, tensioner, Water Pump, front and rear cam seals, (crank seal?).

Need these tools first:
30mm crankshaft socket, ($13): https://www.ipdusa.com/products/8360/11 ... olt-socket
Camshaft locking tool, ($100): https://www.ipdusa.com/products/9735/12 ... cking-tool
Coolant from dealer.

And this timing belt/water pump kit ($241): https://www.ipdusa.com/products/9222/12 ... r-pump-kit
and these seals:
2x Front intake cam seal for CVVT ($24) each: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/16400/1 ... r-actuator
2x Rear intake cam seal (for cams with cam position sensor) ($24) each: https://www.ipdusa.com/products/14295/2 ... shaft-seal

For timing belt, VIDA and this video:

For water pump, VIDA and this thread/videos (not for my specific model but should be similar. skip coolant draining because it's already drained from previous day): https://blog.fcpeuro.com/replacing-the- ... lvo-s60-t5

For camshaft seals, VIDA, this awesome video:

and also this video:

and this thread: viewtopic.php?t=67874
and this thread: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthrea ... ics/213702
Last one is for a '98 V70 but still somewhat relevant.

Replace vvt hubs? Probably not yet, just check them for play and then decide? If they're good just put them back in. Thoughts?

REFILL COOLANT!

Run the car again to make sure I didn't mess anything up. Check for proper braking action (due to new vacuum switch), smooth and improved engine operation. Drink beverages (if all is well).

Day 3:

Replace Leak Detection Pump: $65 off Amazon for Bosch OEM replacement (link here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0159BPDQA/?c ... _lig_dp_it) OR Dealer Price $195 ($420 for whole job including labor) OR OEM kit from IPD: $361 OR $229 for Duralast version on autozone.

Replace spark plugs with these OEM spark plugs from IPD ($60): https://www.ipdusa.com/products/4876/11 ... k-plug-set
and this guide from FCP Euro:

I'll probably leave the coils alone, or take the plunge and replace both plugs and coils with this kit ($300): https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... it#fitment

Change the cabin air filter, fuel filter, and change the oil & oil filter (autozone stuff, probably about $100).

Run car again to check operation.

Drain and fill transmission fluid using this kit ($26): https://www.ipdusa.com/products/4808/10 ... h-hose-kit
and this funnel ($2) (guide from ipd is on the kit page): https://www.ipdusa.com/products/10891/1 ... uid-funnel
Use 14 qts of JWS-3309 compliant fluid (probably the Toyota T-IV) (estimate $10/qt=$140)

Do the transmission fluid replacement reset using VIDA/DICE and any calibration driving required.

Stage Zero (minus cosmetic fixes/some hoses) are now complete.

Drive to the dyno place and dyno the car again to check improvement. Drink beverages (if all is well).

Day 4:

Need some help with this part - car is registered in VA right now but I just relocated it to CA and will probably register it there soon. Anyone smart on what the laws/regs are regarding downpipe/cat/exhaust upgrades in CA? Anyway here's what I'm thinking:

Upgrade downpipe (to larger diameter and high-flow cat - suggestions?)
Probably this Phuzzy downpipe for $550, which is CARB legal: http://www.phuzzymotorsports.com/index. ... p1p35tb853
OR this Elevate 3.5" downpipe and high-flow cat ($1200: https://www.elevatecars.com/store/volvo ... erter.html
OR this Ferrita downpipe and race cat (£744 aka $970): http://en.bsr.se/product/ferrita-downpi ... 2-2007-awd
which I'm guessing I can't actually order or install in CA. Also the Phuzzy is 50% of the cost of the others and seems to work well.

Upgrade exhaust (to larger diameter and keep a relatively subdued sound - suggestions?) Maybe this Elevate 3" exhaust ($786): https://www.elevatecars.com/store/volvo ... ystem.html
Any good lower cost options? What about using a local shop? I just want a little more performance and to keep pretty quiet (think don't-wake-the-neighbours-starting-the-car-at-3am quiet).

Install IPD HD TCV ($90)? Or Phuzzy HD TCV ($60): http://www.phuzzymotorsports.com/index. ... p1p35tb853 thoughts/suggestions? I'm not really clear on the merits of this. From perusing forums it seems like an OEM replacement might be just as good and have less potential for issues.

Install IPD BCS ($82)? thoughts/suggestions? Same as above, I'm not quite sure if this is worth the money or quite how it works, or if my car even has one of these. I need to research this part more, in the meantime any suggestions/info are welcome.

Run car again to check operation.

Day 5:

Change to ARD stage II tune ($507) based on downpipe, exhaust, and drop-in IC upgrades, or Hilton Stage II tune (based on DP, exhaust, FMIC recommended but again I'll be using the drop-in from IPD)

Run car again to check operation. Drive to dyno place and dyno the car again. Drink last two beverages (if all is well). Post dyno results here.

Total cost to stage zero (including the intercooler/radiator upgrade): $2778
Total cost to stage II: (with Phuzzy DP, ARD tune, and $500 budgeted for an exhaust): $4335

Last two days/down-the-road plans (mostly cosmetic/hose/suspension stuff):
[]Restore headlights
[]Repair cracked front lower bumper (or not), was cracked when purchased in the middle, probably nosed into a curb, but not super inclined to fix it as I don't care much about looks.
[]Inspect & replace vacuum lines and radiator/IC piping rubber (where not already replaced)
[]Verify proper fuel flow using a fuel pressure tester and replace fuel pumps if needed
[]boost gauge/AFR gauge or dash logic upgrade
[]suspension components

Congrats on making it to the end and thanks for reading! Excited to get some feedback, thanks all.

Oh, one last thing: when/where are the best sales I should try to catch?

Post by **abscate** » 19 Sep 2018, 02:20

You’ve got a huge amount of overlapping labor on your plan. For instance

You pull coils and plugs to do timing belt stuff. Just put the new ones back in,

When you have the intake manifold off the PCV, replace every vacuum line you see with your choice. You can’t see them with the manifold on

You day one and day two are pretty aggressive for a first look at a Volvo. Overall doable in 3-4 though

Post by **justanotherhumanoid** » 19 Sep 2018, 05:30

Thanks, that's exactly the kind of info I was hoping for, especially about the vacuum lines. I guess I should have a kit on hand day 1 to do those while I've got the intake manifold off. Any good vacuum line kits out there? I'll update my plan accordingly, might wait for a few others to weigh in before I do.

And yeah, it is a little aggressive, and I haven't really planned for Murphy except to leave a few days of nothing on the end. Hopefully that's all it takes.

Post by **abscate** » 19 Sep 2018, 05:45

Oh yeah. Important

You have to say clean with CARB IN SD , I’m pretty sure.

Unapproved exhaustvparts are an instant fail if they affect the cat. People have reported small changes in flow can pop the cat efficiency code, even though the system works fine

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 19 Sep 2018, 05:47

Need some help with this part - car is registered in VA right now but I just relocated it to CA and will probably register it there soon. Anyone smart on what the laws/regs are regarding downpipe/cat/exhaust upgrades in CA? Anyway here's what I'm thinking:

If you replace the Catalytic converter, you need to use a New original equipment (OE)
converter or a California ARB approved Aftermarket Catalytic converter for the specific car and engine.

California ARB explaining the new California CAT law.
You can look up the ARB approved Catalytic converters here.

Post by **justanotherhumanoid** » 19 Sep 2018, 08:50

Okay, so the way I read this, the Phuzzy DP should be good since it is advertised as CARB (California Air Resources Board) approved with a Magnaflow cat... but when I look at the CARB database you linked, I don't see any Magnaflow cats on the list. There are only about 15 aftermarket cats on the list, total. Maybe the Magnaflow is OE for one of the models the DP fits (like the R?) and therefore isn't approved for use on my S60 2.5T in CA?

Sounds like I might be better off just getting an OBX downpipe and having a local shop weld on an aftermarket cat that is on that CA-approved list, or have a local shop do the whole turboback shebang since they are likely familiar with this issue.

Alternatively, does it make sense to upgrade the downpipe while keeping the stock cat and exhaust? Don't think I'd make stage II doing that...

Post by **justanotherhumanoid** » 19 Sep 2018, 09:06

Ah, hold on, Magnaflow appears to be owned by Car Sound Exhaust systems, and they have a few cats on the CARB-approved list. So the Phuzzy DP is back on as an option, it appears.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong (please, before I drop $550 on one), also I'll probably drop the folks over there the same question just to make sure. I'll post back here when I hear back.

Post by **abscate** » 19 Sep 2018, 11:17

The specific part for the CAT you put on has to be the database approved for your year and model of car.

Anyone selling a CAT 'approved for use in CA' will gladly take your money and be hard to find when the smog station fails you or, even worse, sends you to the referee.

I would wait to make the move to CA< then get into the community out there and find the guys who will do the deed and understand CARB fully.

....which I dont, of course....

Post by **RickHaleParker** » 19 Sep 2018, 12:54

justanotherhumanoid wrote: ↑19 Sep 2018, 09:06 Ah, hold on, Magnaflow appears to be owned by Car Sound Exhaust systems, and they have a few cats on the CARB-approved list. So the Phuzzy DP is back on as an option, it appears.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong (please, before I drop $550 on one), also I'll probably drop the folks over there the same question just to make sure. I'll post back here when I hear back.

Car Sound Exhaust System, Inc. is the parent company of Magnaflow.

If you compare the approved Car Sound Exhaust System, Inc. part numbers with the Magnaflow part numbers, two of the approved Car Sound Exhaust System, Inc. part numbers match Magnaflow part numbers. The third Car Sound Exhaust System part number is probably an older version of the Universal Catalytic converter.

It looks to me like your good to go with Magnaflow Part # 546738 (Direct-Fit) or Part # 546056 (Universal).

Post by **justanotherhumanoid** » 19 Sep 2018, 22:15

Concur, that's exactly what I was looking for. The Phuzzy motorsports contact page isn't working (probably 'cause I'm out of the country) but I don't think I need to contact them after reading your post. Also, the thread below has some people indicating they haven't had trouble with the Phuzzy DPs in california emissions tests, however sometimes they install a spacer (also linked below) to prevent a CEL which will prevent them passing:

Thread - Does your Downpipe pass Emissions?https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?t=174311

Spacer used with the PhuzDP:
http://www.bigdaddiesgarage.com/straight-cel-fix.html

That's almost certainly what I'll do then. And also probably take that other suggestion and find someone that's already been through that process in Cali when I get back there.