Diary of a 17 y/o with an 850

Post by **misha** » 14 Oct 2018, 16:27

Where did you get the idea that you will undo wheel bolts with a ratchet?
Do you have specialised crossed key for wheel bolts?

Even with it you will need a breaker bar to undo them.

Post by **wizechatmgr** » 14 Oct 2018, 17:04

Looks like a 1/2" breaker bar that had a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter on it. Better off with black iron (impact) sockets for dealing with wheel lugs whenever possible.

Post by **Clemens** » 15 Oct 2018, 02:14

Make sure to check if the rear brake calipers aren´t seized. They have a tendency to do that with age. Not really a bad job and totally worth it.

shihabafi · Post by **shihabafi** » 15 Oct 2018, 05:01

Clemens wrote: ↑15 Oct 2018, 02:14 Make sure to check if the rear brake calipers aren´t seized. They have a tendency to do that with age. Not really a bad job and totally worth it.

Changed the left rear brake caliper some time ago, and saw that the right one was pretty good.

misha wrote: ↑14 Oct 2018, 16:27 Where did you get the idea that you will undo wheel bolts with a ratchet?
Do you have specialised crossed key for wheel bolts?

It was the breaker bar from Harbor Freight. I don't have the crossed key...

Post by **Chuck W** » 15 Oct 2018, 05:50

Breaker bar, 1/2"-drive socket with a short 1/2"-drive extension.

Not surprised you twisted off an adapter like that. The lug bolts get pretty stubborn on these.

Post by **abscate** » 15 Oct 2018, 09:18

If you use lubricant and back off the torque to 50-60 ft lbs instead of the stock 80 ft lb, it is much easier on your tools and your back - which will thank you later in life.

Quick review of the engineering on this

Dry torque spec is 80 Ft lbs

Torque is roughly three components, roughly equal in contribution.
Head friction
Fastener Plasticity
Thread friction

If you lube threads you reduce the thread friction and head friction, so I use 25% torque reduction as a SWAG on all my cars.

This also means the 6/7 ladies in my house can remove lugnuts with factory tools.

the 7th one can remove 80 ft lb nuts with her fingers, as the Frat boys found out.

Post by **matthew1** » 15 Oct 2018, 09:40

That shifter... you know when you read news stories from Montana or wherever when a bear gets into a car and can't get out, and it thrashes the interior? That's what I thought of when I saw your old shifter!

Post by **misha** » 15 Oct 2018, 15:49

abscate wrote: ↑15 Oct 2018, 09:18 If you use lubricant and back off the torque to 50-60 ft lbs instead of the stock 80 ft lb, it is much easier on your tools and your back - which will thank you later in life...

If he want to chase wheels down the road.

Seriously....it's not fun when your wheel bolts get loosened while driving.
It happened to me 2 times right from tyre shop....from that time i always re-torque them myself with crossed wheel lug's tool and never had the problem again.

shihabafi · Post by **shihabafi** » 15 Oct 2018, 17:08

matthew1 wrote: ↑15 Oct 2018, 09:40 That shifter... you know when you read news stories from Montana or wherever when a bear gets into a car and can't get out, and it thrashes the interior? That's what I thought of when I saw your old shifter!

If you'd like it as a gift I can send it over!

So me and my friend took off the front wheels with the intention of throwing on new pads to get rid of the squeaking, and resurface the rotors, but we were met with a surprise to find out that the brakes still had about 50% of their meat on them...

SO... If the squeaking isn't coming from the brakes... Where else is it coming from?

It's a soft squeak, it appears around ~15mph and disappears by 25. Any ideas?

Also,

Why is there thick and heavy oil-y gunk on the end of my wheel bolts?

Post by **misha** » 15 Oct 2018, 17:34

It's a grease.

Diary of a 17 y/o with an 850

Re: Diary of a 17 y/o with an 850