Trying to change all of the fluid in the transmission. I know that if I drop the pan that I will only get about 1/3 or the total fluid out. I realize I can pump it out the trans. cooler by running the car, but....I would like to clean and inspect the filter. So how can I service the filter and still change all of the fluid?
Thank, Mark
Auto Trans. fluid change 1992 240
- billofdurham
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The majority of the fluid that does not come out when you drain the system is stuck in the pipes and oil cooler.
1. Drain the transmission by removing the drain plug. Disconnect the filler tube and remove the sump, sorry, oil pan.
2. Remove and clean the strainer and re-install it. Strainer bolts are torqued at 18 - 25 INCH lbs (2 -3 NM). Install the oil pan with a new gasket. Torque bolts to 42 INCH lbs (5NM). Tighten filler tube to 65 FT lbs (88NM).
3. Now flush the oil cooler. Disconnect the fluid return pipe from the transmission and place the end of the pipe in a container. Add approx 3.5 quarts of fluid in the transmission.
4. Start the engine and let it idle. When clean fluid comes out of the pipe turn off the engine. Re-connect the pipe and fill the transmission.
None of the old fluid goes through your spotlessly clean strainer.
Bill.
1. Drain the transmission by removing the drain plug. Disconnect the filler tube and remove the sump, sorry, oil pan.
2. Remove and clean the strainer and re-install it. Strainer bolts are torqued at 18 - 25 INCH lbs (2 -3 NM). Install the oil pan with a new gasket. Torque bolts to 42 INCH lbs (5NM). Tighten filler tube to 65 FT lbs (88NM).
3. Now flush the oil cooler. Disconnect the fluid return pipe from the transmission and place the end of the pipe in a container. Add approx 3.5 quarts of fluid in the transmission.
4. Start the engine and let it idle. When clean fluid comes out of the pipe turn off the engine. Re-connect the pipe and fill the transmission.
None of the old fluid goes through your spotlessly clean strainer.
Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.
Bill,
I did as you suggested except I did not remove the pan and so couldn't clean the filter. The fill pipe would not come loose even with penetrating fluid and heat from a torch. I figured rather than breaking something I would skip the filter cleaning this time.
Thanks for the reply.
Mark
I did as you suggested except I did not remove the pan and so couldn't clean the filter. The fill pipe would not come loose even with penetrating fluid and heat from a torch. I figured rather than breaking something I would skip the filter cleaning this time.
Thanks for the reply.
Mark
1992 240 GL
1966 Sunbeam Tiger
1966 Sunbeam Tiger
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outofworkjoe
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This is how I change the trans fluid in my volvos. * Obtain either IPD's transmission flush hose or a clear vinyl or plastic tube (3/8 inch I.D.) about eight feet long, three or four gallon milk jugs calibrated with a permanent marker in quarts, and a transmission fill funnel with a long, thin neck. Have at least your tranny capacity (approx 9 qts.) in new fluid on hand. 3/8vinyl hose is a tight fit (heat it in water to get it on); 1/2 inch I.D. will require a clamp.
* Buy 12 quarts of new fluid. Highly recommended: synthetic such as Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF.
* Remove the transmission dipstick with the yellow top and put the tip of the funnel into the filler pipe. Press down firmly on the funnel so that it stays in place. If need be, use some wire to secure the funnel so that it doesn't come out or fall over.
* Drain all the oil from the transmission drain pan (2-3.5 qts depending on model).
* Refill 2 qts into the filler tube.
* The transmission cooler return line is the top line entering the top fitting at the radiator. Using two wrenches (one as a counterhold wrench so you do not crack the fitting at the top of the radiator), remove this cooler line. Penetrating oil can help loosen threads. Pull back gently on the cooler line to separate it from the radiator. Push the transmission fluid line slightly aside (use a cable tie to hold it, if necessary).
* Connect the clear plastic hose to the radiator fitting by pressing it on the thread, lubricating with ATF as needed. Fish it through over or through the grill and into to a gallon milk jug on the ground.
* Turn on the engine. Fluid will start draining out of the tube into the jug. The fluid does not drain out all that fast - ~25 seconds for 2 qts - and stops when you stop the engine.
* Watch the fill rate on the side of the jug and have a friend refill at the same rate into the filler tube. [Editor's Note: have a friend engage parking brake, apply the main brake, and place the transmission in drive for a minute to flush out other parts of the valve body and torque converter.]
* After approximately nine quarts, you will notice fresh fluid flowing out of the hose. Stop here.
* Button things up (do not overtighten the cooler line fitting), check final level, check for leaks, etc.
Everything worked very well - the only pitfall was that I ended up overfilling the trans. a bit (~3/4 qt) - I think I must have been a little off every time I estimated I had drained 2 qts. So finally I had to pump all that out of the filler tube while checking the level - a bit of a hassle but not too bad. [Tip: if you overfill, just unscrew the pan bolt slightly and hold it while the fluid drips out to the quantity required. Messy but easy.]
* Buy 12 quarts of new fluid. Highly recommended: synthetic such as Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF.
* Remove the transmission dipstick with the yellow top and put the tip of the funnel into the filler pipe. Press down firmly on the funnel so that it stays in place. If need be, use some wire to secure the funnel so that it doesn't come out or fall over.
* Drain all the oil from the transmission drain pan (2-3.5 qts depending on model).
* Refill 2 qts into the filler tube.
* The transmission cooler return line is the top line entering the top fitting at the radiator. Using two wrenches (one as a counterhold wrench so you do not crack the fitting at the top of the radiator), remove this cooler line. Penetrating oil can help loosen threads. Pull back gently on the cooler line to separate it from the radiator. Push the transmission fluid line slightly aside (use a cable tie to hold it, if necessary).
* Connect the clear plastic hose to the radiator fitting by pressing it on the thread, lubricating with ATF as needed. Fish it through over or through the grill and into to a gallon milk jug on the ground.
* Turn on the engine. Fluid will start draining out of the tube into the jug. The fluid does not drain out all that fast - ~25 seconds for 2 qts - and stops when you stop the engine.
* Watch the fill rate on the side of the jug and have a friend refill at the same rate into the filler tube. [Editor's Note: have a friend engage parking brake, apply the main brake, and place the transmission in drive for a minute to flush out other parts of the valve body and torque converter.]
* After approximately nine quarts, you will notice fresh fluid flowing out of the hose. Stop here.
* Button things up (do not overtighten the cooler line fitting), check final level, check for leaks, etc.
Everything worked very well - the only pitfall was that I ended up overfilling the trans. a bit (~3/4 qt) - I think I must have been a little off every time I estimated I had drained 2 qts. So finally I had to pump all that out of the filler tube while checking the level - a bit of a hassle but not too bad. [Tip: if you overfill, just unscrew the pan bolt slightly and hold it while the fluid drips out to the quantity required. Messy but easy.]
1991 volvo 240 207000 my car/1993 volvo 940 turbo 160000 wife/1989 245 267000 sons
Sorry for the bit of thread jacking here, but reading the previous posts raised a question:
Has anyone ever tried removing the fluid from the trans using a fluid transfer pump/siphon pump/motive flow pump using a tube thru the filler neck of the trans rather than removing the drain plug?
Or, alternately, could you pump fresh fluid thru the sytem for a fairly complete flush (attaching the output tube of the pump to one of the cooler lines) using such a pump?
Has anyone ever tried removing the fluid from the trans using a fluid transfer pump/siphon pump/motive flow pump using a tube thru the filler neck of the trans rather than removing the drain plug?
Or, alternately, could you pump fresh fluid thru the sytem for a fairly complete flush (attaching the output tube of the pump to one of the cooler lines) using such a pump?
3 Volvos: '96 S90: 70k, '00 S70: 126K, '90 740: 139K
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volvo240student
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Hi Bill,billofdurham wrote: ↑14 Sep 2007, 12:37 The majority of the fluid that does not come out when you drain the system is stuck in the pipes and oil cooler.
1. Drain the transmission by removing the drain plug. Disconnect the filler tube and remove the sump, sorry, oil pan.
2. Remove and clean the strainer and re-install it. Strainer bolts are torqued at 18 - 25 INCH lbs (2 -3 NM). Install the oil pan with a new gasket. Torque bolts to 42 INCH lbs (5NM). Tighten filler tube to 65 FT lbs (88NM).
3. Now flush the oil cooler. Disconnect the fluid return pipe from the transmission and place the end of the pipe in a container. Add approx 3.5 quarts of fluid in the transmission.
4. Start the engine and let it idle. When clean fluid comes out of the pipe turn off the engine. Re-connect the pipe and fill the transmission.
None of the old fluid goes through your spotlessly clean strainer.
Bill.
Can you start with flushing the oil cooler first and then lower the pan and replace filter on the end?
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lummert
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Hopefully someone can answer this question as billofdurham is no longer with us. Does the transmission pan have a drain plug? Removing the drain plug would be easier than dropping the pan just to find a screen for a filter.volvo240student wrote: ↑19 Mar 2019, 00:01Hi Bill,billofdurham wrote: ↑14 Sep 2007, 12:37 The majority of the fluid that does not come out when you drain the system is stuck in the pipes and oil cooler.
1. Drain the transmission by removing the drain plug. Disconnect the filler tube and remove the sump, sorry, oil pan.
2. Remove and clean the strainer and re-install it. Strainer bolts are torqued at 18 - 25 INCH lbs (2 -3 NM). Install the oil pan with a new gasket. Torque bolts to 42 INCH lbs (5NM). Tighten filler tube to 65 FT lbs (88NM).
3. Now flush the oil cooler. Disconnect the fluid return pipe from the transmission and place the end of the pipe in a container. Add approx 3.5 quarts of fluid in the transmission.
4. Start the engine and let it idle. When clean fluid comes out of the pipe turn off the engine. Re-connect the pipe and fill the transmission.
None of the old fluid goes through your spotlessly clean strainer.
Bill.
Can you start with flushing the oil cooler first and then lower the pan and replace filter on the end?
1988 Volvo 760 Turbo Wagon
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volvo240student
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Hi Lummert,
Thank you for offering to help and find substitute for Bill. I am about to flush the system and replace screen on transmission. I just don’t know should I flush the system first and then drop the pan to replace filter or opposite way.
Thank you for offering to help and find substitute for Bill. I am about to flush the system and replace screen on transmission. I just don’t know should I flush the system first and then drop the pan to replace filter or opposite way.
- RickHaleParker
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If you want to get all the fluid changed Google "Gibbons method" or search MVS for "Gibbons method".
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1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
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